Davide Sora

Link, please?

For me is completely nonsense, but everyone has the right to invent all the theories he wants, it is the fun of violin making and of internet.

Mother of pearl, etched.

I use a little japanese Kataba saw (the ones without the reinforced back) 0.5 mm thickness. The absence of reinforced back allow for better visibility of the cut. With thinner blade is better to have the back reinforced (Dozuki saw). In any case I think every kind of backsaw may be used, if well sharp and with fine teeth, it's only a matter of technique and to become used to them.

Here is an example how I take some of my notes, beware from considering the numbers as standard, you do not know all the rest of the crucial information.....

Maybe it's just a problem that we have very little memory , but when you do twice the same mistake for forgetfulness, the third time you surely take note (underlined three times in red!!!)

Are you sure? I do not remember making a video about the thicknesses, maybe you refer to videos on archings In any case you are right, I also keep notes of thickness distribution with a color map and I surely recommend to do so to everyone (even without a color code is enough but less appealing......). As well as to remember our mistakes, it is even more useful in the case we have achieved excellent results and it would be disheartening not to remember how to get closer to the same result another time...... The more notes you will take, the more useful information you will have available in the future, also good to have when one violin come back in the workshop for maintainance after many years.

I make the top and you the back? Or you suggest the opposit?

I have no problem with E string, but what about improoving a yet good G string getting it broader without loosing E string quality? That's my actual challenge. Suggestions?

Just aesthetical reason, inspired from some wooden Japanese plane, but with improved aerodynamic features to avoid losing contact with the ground in fast planing....

I checked again and the angle is 90 degrees with the sole of the plane. It probably seemed more angled to you because the top of the plane is not parallel to the sole but slightly inclined towards the tip.

The angle is 90 degree, with the bevel of the blade you get a 75 degree angle (+ or -) when you use in the other direction or when you move backward. Very easy to make.

I think the toothed plane with vertical blade is the most plausible answer, because it is the exact mid way between a rasp and a plane. It work as a plane with the effect reported by David Burgess, but the teeth leave the same marks as those of a rasp as showed by Christian Bayon and you can work in both direction and also in a diagonal way without breaking the rib when you work backwards. A very useful and effective tool, practically a rasp with a depth stop, I think old makers love it. Shown from time 0:26 in this video.

Thanks. I don't like the F-holes and the very bold edge and corners (not something I would like to draw inspiration....) but anyway the model is very nice.