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mkinsel

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  1. Lets get real for a second.. We all know that valuable violins are easier dreamed of than available. There are violins for every aspect of those who play or just collect.
  2. mkinsel

    tuning

    I recently purchased a tuning aid.. one that clips a transducer to the bridge.. I havent played in awhile, and according to this tuner, my violin is way out of tune.. How reliable are these tuning aids.. Wish I had an ear for the right tune..
  3. Robert, Let me revise that just a tad. I said its definately not an original.. Theres no way for anyone to know for sure without looking at it. You cant judge a violin by its label.. which is what I did... Have a well known luthier or appraiser look at it..
  4. Hi Robert, First of all, Im no expert like many of the people here are. But I do know its definately a Strad Copy. No originals were made outside Italy. Also, its probably late 19th century instead of 1727, as it was not required for the "Made In" to be on the label till that time. Right around 1890 is when the United States began requiring country of origin on the labels. Its value varies depending on its size i.e. 4/4, 7/8, 3/4 etc. The larger the better. And of course the condition it is in. I have the 3/4 Strad copy mentioned earlier, and everyone Ive talked to says its worth $100-$150 dollars. But 4/4's are worth more. They are worth more sentimentally than anything though, because literally millions of them were made.. Good luck..
  5. Thanks Steve for your evaluation. After doing some quick internet research, I had came to the same conclusion, except for the "Jean Baptist Colin" part. The label inside says "Made in......and the country is torn away. But I knew with that even being there it was obviosly a copy, even if it would have said "Made in Italy".. Stradivari didnt speak english so "Made in Anywhere" would never be on his label. Also, date wise I agree the late 19th century, even though label says 1736. As Im sure you know, the U.S. began requiring the country of origin on all labels after 1890 or there about. If this violin was made prior to that, it would not have had the "Made in" on the label. Thanks for your help..
  6. Im no expert for sure, but my guess is #2 is the fake.. The f holes look too wide. That of course must mean that #1 is the real fake...
  7. Of course I knew no one could give me much info without seeing it... Why do you think I gave the addy to the ebay pictures...?????
  8. I apoligize. I should have read the guide first. Im sure this board gets way too many questions like that. Im pretty sure of what I have now though. Thanks
  9. I recently purchased a Stradiuaurius Violin on Ebay for a VERY cheap price. Obviously this is not a Stradivarius. Can anyone tell me if it is worth anything? I have it in hand now, and it is no doubt a very, very, very old violin. All original. It has not been refinished. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?V...&item=133809308 Thanks ya'll
  10. Ive been reading the posts recently about string choice, and I personally like the classical sound. Ive been listening to Mendelssohn Dvorak violin concertos CD, and I love that tonal soft synthetic sound as opposed to the twangy metal sound my violin produces... Is that the strings???? What are Dominants?? I want the classical sound... The rich vibrant sound...But Im a beginner and hear that I should stick to the metal for now......Please tell me I dont have too...Is gut cores the way to go, and if so, I keep reading about Pirastro Eudoxas,Tonicas, and Olive E's...!!!!
  11. Thanks for everyones advice on this... I'll try them all...
  12. Hello, Im a beginner who is just beginning to pizz on the "A" string while keeping my fingers ready to play "e" "f# and "g" on the "D" string. Im finding this impossible to do... My fingers on "d" interfere with the "A" string... Im an adult, but my fingers are not fat...What am I doing wrong, and what if any practice/exercise techniques can solve this??????
  13. Im sorry this reply is so long, but its necessary.... When a new violin is completed, the wood is stable because it has been kept at a constant humidity level during the construction of the instrument. The three types of wood, maple, spruce, and ebony, are all balanced in moisture content, and physical dimensions. All the parts of the instrument fit perfectly together. As soon as the new instrument is brought home, it is exposed to changing humidity levels. If the air in your home is dry (during winter)the first thing you will notice is the pegs slipping..... The neck of your violin, including the peg box, is made of maple. The pegs are of ebony. The peg holes are bored in a precise taper which is matched by the taper of the pegs. They must fit together exactly in order to provide enough friction to hold the string tension, and keep from slipping. When the peg box loses moisture to the dry air, the wood shrinks slightly, making the peg holes slightly larger. The shrinking pegs also become slightly smaller. To complicate matters, the shrinkage is not uniform, but greater across the grain, than in the grain dimension. Because of this, the peg holes now become slightly out of round (egg shaped), making a tight fit impossible. Even worse, the dry air causes the maple back and the spruce top to shrink at different rates. If nothing is done to relieve the stress buildup between the maple and spruce, the top will crack. Most violins are made though with a back up to prevent this. To minimize the effects of humidity changes, remember that stringed intstruments are like the same environmental conditions you do. Temp and humidity levels that are comfy for you, are comfy for your violin. Summer or winter, never leave your violin in a car. Dont transport it in the trunk, dont store it in the attic. You wouldnt leave your dog or child in a car parked in the sun, or in the attic in winter, so why would you do that to your violin? In summer, people know enough to avoid extreme heat and humidity. In winter, however, many people subject themselves to very dry indoor air, and dont realize that thier nasal problems, allergies,dry itchy skin are the direct result of low indoor humidity. Unlike your family, your violin wont suffer in silence. Lack of humidity damages more instruments than excess humidity...... Go to a local refrigeration supply company or the like and get a good hyrgrometer..(around $50) A hygrometer measures relative humidity, and get a good humidifier. Place the hygrometer in the room you store your violin in. When the hygrometer shows the humidity level dropping below the desired level, turn the humidifier on. The optimun relative humidity for maintaining stringed intstuments is around 50%. 40% to 30% is usually the best some can do in dry environments, even with a humidifier....Anything below 40% can be dangerous.. Remem, those numbers are INDOOR relative humidity. Dont be fooled by the local weather report, which is usually exterior humidity levels.. If you buy a humidifier, avoid the ultrasonic, or "cool mist" humidifiers. They produce a greasy white dust that gets all over the house. Look for an "evaporative" humidifier (one with a wick). Look for a "Dampit".. Its a long snake like rubber hose, with a sponge inside.. your local music store, or where you purchased your violin should carry them. You wet it, and place inside the f-hole where it gives off moisture to keep your violin moisture levels in check. Fill it every day, as they dry out every 6-8 hours. Its not a substitute for a humidifier though, so you really need both.... Good luck....
  14. Can someone tell me what differences there are between violins and violas...? Im a beginning violin student, and Im thinking perhaps what I really want to play is the viola...Is the sound deeper with the viola?? Once you learn the violin, can you play the viola with the same music?
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