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Everything posted by M_A_T_T

  1. quote: Originally posted by: C.B.Fiddler How thick are the aluminum walls on a standard IBEX bending Iron? Is there any play room at all? 3mm - 4mm. IMO no room for reshaping without going too thin to be able hold heat well.
  2. I've though about a kidney shape before, perhaps something like this: The extra clearance behind the curved ends would allow you to get right in and bend the ends right around, which I have found to be the biggest problem with egg shapes. I'm not sure if the best place for the cartridge heater would be right in the middle, or perhaps two placed nearer to either end?
  3. quote: Originally posted by: Darren Molnar I think the problem with bending iron designs is that making an egg shape does the wrong thing on the two ends. the radius increases instead of decreases [Like in a scroll, for examp.] It looks like the $700 is flat on one side to try and deal with this.
  4. Here is mine. Ibex model from International Luthier's with new custom form I designed and had made for it. I works better than the Ibex but doesn't bend C's as easily as I'd hoped. Chris, I'm curious about that middle one too. If that shape is really good for C's, how about getting some piece fabricated and selling them? My work has the ability and contacts for CNC'ing or getting aluminum extrusions made. I thought about getting my design extruded but it doesn't bend C's easy enough.
  5. I use a setting of about 3.
  6. I agree with the few who have said the work isn't particularly fast. I work exactly the same way he does when he was using the small planes on the plates, for example. The thing I found most interesting was the use of an outside mold. PS, this is the third time this video has been posted.
  7. I think alot of them came from Henry Strobels books, but I am changing some of them for my third violin because it uses a different pattern. Some I have also collected from here.
  8. You rule. That's great, I don't know if I could ever build a bass. Do you plan to keep this one?
  9. quote: Originally posted by: DonLeister Matt, do you keep records on your violins? The closest thing would be my online journal.
  10. I have this, image attached, that I made up from a few sources as an in-shop reference, mainly for measurements. Does anyone use anything similar in their workshop?
  11. Good news to hear. I will never do another commision again, though. I did one for a custom 'ukulele and another for a custom 5-string fretless bass guitar. They always ended up feeling like a chore that I -had- to do, which for me takes the fun out of instrument building.
  12. quote: Originally posted by: C.B.Fiddler If it was repaired without his authorization, he needs to keep his quarrel with the shop that did the work without asking him. I feel that your liability in this situation has ended. I would chalk it up to "one of those customers" and move on. I agree, plus you really have nothing to loose as you already got your positive feedback.
  13. Nice. I also like the wood sets lined up along the back.
  14. quote: Originally posted by: Jimbow Hi Matt, That sounds very interesting and challenging. The results look great as do your instruments and website. You have unique talents! Jimbow Thanks. I work with what I have and would glady use a better and easier program if I still had one. Just feel I'd use it enough to buy one. quote: Originally posted by: MANFIO He told me the Koto is made of a single piece of Kiri wood, and that he has plans and a book (in Japanese) of how to make a Koto... Those are neat instruments. They are a single section of log, usuall
  15. Thanks for the nice comments. quote: Originally posted by: matthew tucker What does the syringe do that a brush doesn't?? And do you work that fast usually, or is it because the camera is watching?? The syringe holds alot of glue so I don't need to go back and forth to the glue pot, and I can get it right into the groove. I think for at least purfling I do work that fast, or nearly that fast. quote: Originally posted by: matthew tucker And ... which of your three instruments sounds best? Well, #3 isn't even finshed , but probably #2.
  16. quote: Originally posted by: ctviolin did you round off and buff the original needle tip?. It's a blunt platic tip. It used to be a cat medicine syringe.
  17. quote: Originally posted by: kittykatjaz The syringe for the glue is such a fantastic thing. Do you sit it in hot water before and between application? I run a bunch of the glue pot water through it, let it sit in the water, and keep it in the glue jar while it is full of glue. All that keeps it nice and warm so the glue flows well.
  18. I made this today while working on #3. It's based on methods I've read on here, possibly from Michael or Oded, I can't remember. Anyways, it's not the greatest quality, my shop is TINY so I didn't have too many options when it came to shooting angle, but I think it shows the basic idea. At this point the purfling grooves are cut, the beestings are cut (as best I could do) and the purfling has been set in place. I dab a small amount of hide glue just on the corners to hold them in place and let dry for a bit. I then pull up the purfling strips in the MIDDLE only, NOT at the corners, and use
  19. quote: Originally posted by: Dean_Lapinel Matt, Not only re you clever and innovative in your work methods but you're incredibly clean. How do you keep your bench so organized? My bench is like a magnet for tools, dust, shavings and stuff. I don't like clutter, especially on my work space. I am the same way at my day job.
  20. I have finally gotten back to work on #3 tonight. Just started purfling. Feels good.
  21. Thanks for the kind words Wes, but I don't know if I'd call me a 'model person'.
  22. quote: Originally posted by: PeterG By the way, I was in to AVS yesterday and your name came up in conversation with Wendell. Small world, isn't it. That's neat! They are a great place for tonewood in Canada. Good people to deal with.