• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by M_A_T_T

  1. Not sure if it helps but I have had good service (mail order) from Atlantic Violin Supplies in New Brunswick Canada. They deal in European woods. I tried Luscombe Violins in Ontario for wood but was not as happy with the material or service. I should say I have only bought less than half a dozen sets, though. Alantic Violin Supplies
  2. The ones that aid in proper positioning of the bar when chalk fitting, and of course, gluing? I will definately be using them next time. My latest bass bar flew around during glue up when I started putting the clamps on.
  3. I've never tried this glue myself, but I've heard a double bass maker refer to it as an equivalent to the Franklins liquid hide glue. I have also read this glue requires around 500 degrees of heat to release.
  4. fiddlecollector - Natural Orange Terpene Solvent by Eco-House. I believe it is citrus based. CT - I never thought of just letting the solvent evaporate, I'll try that. I think I'm happy with it shellac as a sealer coat. I think Michael Darnton uses, or used it. I think that's why I tried it originally. I am using an orange shellac.
  5. Alot more than the Dammar. I left the Dammar as large chuncks and completely covered it with solvent. then realized I should have smashed up the resin so I did right afterwards. I guess I have too much solvet? I you use too little will you have problems with the resin disolving?
  6. Interesting. I have seriously watery stuff, on the order of 1/2lb cut shellac (I know this because this is what I sealed my last violin with).
  7. I'm doing some rough tests with some oil varnish and it is extremely watery. Is this normal? I'm testing Dammar resin, desolved in an Natural Orange Terpene solvent, with a Walnut Alkyd Medium oil added (about the same amount as the Dammar resin) all purchased from a local art store.
  8. I made one from a bar of aluminum with a brass screw set at 27mm, and the pin is set perpendicular to the plane of the top. I glue my fingerboards on 'permanetly' when making the neck so I only require the one pin.
  9. I've been aligning my f-holes based on the nicks in the template using the marked stop length as a guide to position them.
  10. quote: Originally posted by: David Burgess Ffs are rough when varnishing, final cutting is done afterwards. Like Manfio mentioned, lines can change a bit with varnishing, so I don't even bother trying to get them "right" before varnish. Final cutting after varnish also gets rid of varnish runs etc. at the same time. Tough on knife blades though. Notches are usually cut during setup. This is interesting.
  11. Thanks for the compliments. I'm not sure which is a better method NewNewbie, but I will probably go in from the back on my next violin. CT, I drill three 1/8" holes: One in each eye to give me a start with the knife and saw, and one in the middle near the notches where I start sawing from.
  12. Did them from the underside this time. I liked that I had better visibility, but felt a slight lack of control as I usually used both hands when I did it from the top on my other two violins. Looks like they turned out okay though.
  13. I've been cutting mine from the front, but it seems the norm is to come in from the underside?
  14. quote: Originally posted by: bean_fidhleir So are you saying that I can treat it almost as though it were a dowel? Re-loosen it with hot water applied with a hypo, pop it out, slather on the glue, and shove it straight back in, sort of thing? I'm not sure you'd want to use hot water, Michael Darnton has said it just make hide glue sticky and messy. He actually suggests small amounts of alcohol to dry out the glue, but this is in regards to removing a top.
  15. quote: Originally posted by: NewNewbie I checked out you new cradle. Nice! Kind of you to help someone! Have you thought of putting Dowels through the bottom of the blocks, and using in your table vise? Then you could use the vise screw to tighten the ends. This would sort-a be like Michael's holder then, pinching from the top and bottom. I would have to stand farther back from my bench, and be nailing my back against my spindle sander. My shop is VERY small. carlkenyon, my new method is very simple. Two shaped and cork padded blocks support the plate at either end,
  16. I made it when I made my first violin, from the Henry Strobel pattern. The lower half is adjustable by a 3/16" or so, and there is a mahogany block screwed and glued to the bottom so it can be held in a vise. It doesn't really fit my current pattern (Amati) and I prefer the methods I am using now anyways. Whoever wants it can have it for free, but will need to pay shipping (not sure how much yet). If no one takes it I'm throwing it out.
  17. quote: Originally posted by: muddycreek I got a very nice one from dov music. I didn't rebar it but did regraduate it. It sounded very nice when finished. http://www.dov-music.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1242 Is Dov-Music in North America?
  18. I need help. I am interested in the GI-B532 and need a measurement clarified. On their site they state to total height is 10". I am wondering if this measurement includes the lip around the edge along the top or not, and if so what the measurement to the top without the lip is. The reason I ask is because I would like to fit this chest into a shelf I have but the shelf only has 9 5/8" of clearance for height. If the height without the lip is low enough I would cut off the lip along the top. Thanks for any help.
  19. quote: Originally posted by: colledge Matt, I beilieve anything that Howard Core sells at a "Net" price, they will sell to anyone. It's only cases, strings, finished instruments, etc. that you must be a dealer. Sean Their white instruments are in the section of their site where it says only dealer may buy from. I was thinking perhaps THIS may be the way to go, as others have stated I'd need to re-graduate and probably re-bar the instrument to make it into a violin rather than a VSO.
  20. I did what manfio suggests and spent almost $100 on three brushes of different sizes. I think they are an artificial 'sablite' hair. Money well spent IMO, but spirit varnish takes practice. EDIT: They are 'Da Vinci' brand and I have four of them in differenmt sizes.
  21. Darn. Looks like you have to be a dealer to buy instruments from Howard Core.
  22. Thanks for the replies. Howard Core looks really good. Looks like I can get what I'm looking for for only $75, or even less. Thanks
  23. I would like to purchase an in the white violin to practice my varnishing. I already have a fitting set I bought off ebay last year, and was trying to buy an in the white violin from Online Guitar but got screwed out of my money. Looking for an inexpensive, but decent, in the white violin. The plan would be to sell it to make my money back, so I wouldn't want it to cost too much. I think I spent $35 or so on the fitting set already. International Violin sells a selection, as does Atlantic Violin Supplies in Canada. Anybody got word on the quality? Any other sources? Thanks