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Everything posted by M_A_T_T

  1. My first goal is to finish violin #3, which will have taken a year to make this January. I think I may also want to try a Viola or even a 'cello.
  2. It always seems to be done this way. I think it may have to do with it being easier to remove the plates from the rib garland in the future.
  3. I think it's the body length that is refered to. I'm interested to know the outline sizes for a project I may soon be working on. Also, is the shape basically an elargened violin with everything proportionate?
  4. Michael has his own forum? I know he posts on Leif Luscombe's redesigned forum, but I didn't know he had his own.
  5. M_A_T_T


    I wish Craig all the best with his health, and hope he comes and visits us once in a while. He has always been so helpful on this forum. Matt
  6. If you want a really long sole for a low-ish price Lee Valley also have a Jointer Plane. The low angle blade option makes it versatile. I have both the Veritas #6 and jointer plane, as well as four others, they are great. The one I most use right now is their #5 1/4W Bench Plane because the others are too big for violin work.
  7. The work looks very clean, great job.
  8. I had difficulties with that on violin #1 & #2 so I made a jig based on one I had seen in a photo somewhere. Different than yours but helped quite a bit. I dry-clamped the ribs into the exact position on the back, then glued this support lightly to the blocks. Everything stayed in place when the glue was dry and clamps removed and closing up the body was a breeze.
  9. I've seen the vacuum method used in the guitar industry. It was at Larrivee Guitars in Vancouver. They had a setup where you'd place the guitar top on a base, place all the braces in place with glue, then close a lid over everything which was a frame with a rubbery material. Then the air was vacuumed out and clamed everything. Several were done at once, and they were only clamped for a short time, about 20mins if I remember.
  10. Depends on what kind of varnish you are using. I have used a very dilute shellac/spirit based varnish put right on the wood, but I don't think it's good practice if your varnish is oil based.
  11. quote: Originally posted by: NewNewbie I was under the impression that you made a few of these and distributed them to Maestronetters. I have only made two, one of which resides with a Canadian violin maker who helped design it. I think it was Andres Sender who made a bunch and sold them to Mnet'rs. Back when I was into guitar making, I worked for a luthier of acoustic guitars and used the go-bar deck. The go-bars were made of fibre glass. The guitar's back or soundboard were placed on a jig with a specific dish-shape carved into it, and correspondingly shaped braces were gl
  12. quote: Originally posted by: NewNewbie MATT I see that your Bass Bar Frame made it in the photos. That ain't mine. Michael's website with the viola making essay is where the idea came from. Mine is slightly different and has legs to support itself. That's Michaels.
  13. To be honest, I only watched two or three of the clips. I have just never seen a 'series' posted like this before, so I posted the link. Yeah, that scraper one is quite bad in terms of proper usage! Peter, thanks for the nice comment. EDIT: Ooooh, yeah, the gouge videos show poor technique, too. Seems like like he is unsure of where to take it off and just lightly whittles away. I'm not very experienced myself, but I know where to dig in deep with the gouge and hog it out. I should pay more attention to links I post.
  14. There is a series of them from a maker named Ivan Labussiere. Twenty-one at the moment. Each is only 15 seconds long, but he shows various aspects of making. One the righthand side bar where it says Details - Comments - From User, click on From User to see the rest. LINK
  15. That first one is neat. He REALLY rubbed that joint back & forth, I didn't think it needed to be done that much.
  16. There are a few threads on this. Michael Darnton has written some articles on this as well (can't find links). I use a homemade setup with cheap table top fluorescent lights and have gotten very decent results. I think I spent $70 on my setup.
  17. You have the coolest job. Also, I found the Henry Strobel books to be fairly good.
  18. I don't know if this has been posted before.
  19. That explains it quite clearly, thanks Jeffrey. I may look into entering next year.
  20. What if you can't attend a competition in person, is it my understanding you can send your violin to the competition, the host shop?
  21. quote: Originally posted by: violintipsy quote: Originally posted by: Demi-Swan A knife is definitive, once you have marked something with a knife, it is exact, and there is a definite and prominent place for it in violin making. The awl tends to bruise the wood for marking across the grain especially on spruce, but for marking say the placement for the peg-holes, in other words a piercing action, it is great. And of course the pencil always has a place everywhere. well but there are pros and cons to what Demi - Swan says .. .yes its true that it its definit
  22. quote: Originally posted by: violintipsy quote: Originally posted by: M_A_T_T That photo shows only one coat. I'd put more on but it is remaining slightly tacky. Seth sent me a sample of real asphalt that I mixed as a colorant into the same type of varnish and it seems to have dried much better, though one coat isn't as dark as the original sample. but when you finish varnishing are you planning on having the dark rich antique look or a lightish varnish That will depend on how it looks with multiple coats, but I would prefer somewhat dark.
  23. I currently use a pencil, but have been thinking about switching to an awl/scribe or even a knife. Lee Valley has some nice items: Scratch Awl Striking Knife Mechanical Scriber What do you guys use?
  24. That photo shows only one coat. I'd put more on but it is remaining slightly tacky. Seth sent me a sample of real asphalt that I mixed as a colorant into the same type of varnish and it seems to have dried much better, though one coat isn't as dark as the original sample.
  25. quote: Originally posted by: Janito -Is there any residue that you can see in a clear glass container if you allow the solvent to evaporate completely? I left some solvent is a jar for some time now. There seems to be a sticky residue left, I'm not sure this left over will evaporate.