M_A_T_T

Members
  • Content Count

    955
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by M_A_T_T

  1. quote:


    Originally posted by:
    Andres Sender

    Matt--would yours take 20 minutes to heat up if you put it on 'maximum' for the time it took to heat up?

    I went through my journal and I had written that on 3.5 it took 20 minutes to heat up, then got too hot and I had to turn it down to about 2.

    I suspect it would work, as I can hear something inside the unit click periodically, and I believe this to be the heater being turned on and off. The higher the control setting the longer the cartridge would remain on, so it may very well heat up faster if set on Hi, but be careful. The instructions from Ibex state leaving it on Hi will damage the cartridge, so you would definately need to closely monitor it if you were to try it on Hi.

  2. quote:


    Originally posted by:
    C.B.Fiddler

    I think that Matt (and I) are asking if it is sold or hollow. Casting may infer that it is a hollowed form that aluminum is "cast" in.

    That's what I meant, cast as per the Ibex (hollow inside).

    quote:


    Originally posted by:
    David Tseng

    What I worry about this bending iron is the electronic section will fail first and the replacement parts are not easy to come by. If this happens in 5 to 10 years, one can always remove the electronics and put in a cheap potentiometer to control the temperature like the old Ibex.

    This is one of the reasons I am going with the cheaper one myself.

    quote:


    It is solid, as far as I can tell, just by the shear weight of this things over 3.5 Lbs. and the cello one more than double that.

    I weighed my Ibex with my solid milled form and it came to 3lbs 14oz. It has a large wooden base. This one has a small metal base. Could we safely assume it is solid?

  3. quote:


    Originally posted by:
    M_A_T_T

    Anyone know if it's solid or cast?

    I work in a metal shop and asked about solid vs cast. I was told cast heats up very quickly and holds the heat compared to billet aluminum. Based on the size and my experience having one made, I would guess it's cast. It looks taller than the one I had milled from a billet, and the one I had made was pushing the limits of the machine due to the cutter length. Cast would probably be cheaper to have produced anyways.

    The main thing I would like to know is whether it's solid or hollow. Solid is desireable.

    I thnk whether it is solid or hollow I will be getting the $119 version, as I just do the water test on my iron.

  4. quote:


    Originally posted by:
    C.B.Fiddler

    I know that Stewart MacDonald offers an iron with a threaded insert that accepts a cylinder for tighter curves. Is this what you use?


    I did have that mounted on my Ibex for a while. I had to drill and tap the 1/4-20 threaded hole for it. It helped, but I much prefer my design.

  5. quote:


    Originally posted by:
    MANFIO

    I imagine that, for those who don't like the IBEX shape, it's ease to attach a metal or aluminium piece with a different shape to the IBEX iron.

    It is.

    I'm surprized by the charring in that last photo.

  6. quote:


    Originally posted by:
    Andres Sender

    Remember that mounting screws will also transmit heat. Apparently this is not an issue with the Ibex?

    They just go through holes in the wood and are anchored by a nut and washer each. It doesn't seem to be an issue.

  7. I just finished the attachment for my fan. It uses a wooden holder tool I previously made. I may stick some rubber pieces along the inside for a tighter fit. It works very well, the fan has no trouble operating with the violin on top, and it does not move too fast at all on the lowest setting. I purposely situated the fixture right above the axis of the gear that moves the fan head left & right. This way the violin simply rotates on the endpin as an axis instead of a slight side to side movement.

    fan1.jpg

    fan2.jpg

    fan3.jpg

  8. I am very near the varnish stage with my next violin. I will most likely be using one of the oil varnishes I am testing, and one thing that I've been thinking of is how the violin will be situated outside in the sun to help cure the varnish. I was just thinking today, why not attach a jig to a fan, the kind with the swivling head that goes back and forth, and set the violin on it? We have a couple fans like that, the range of movement is just short of ninety degrees. That much movement would allow for a decent amount of area to be hit by sunlight, like the sides & back, or sides & top.

  9. The photos and lighting are nice, but the background isn't as white as I thought it would be.

    I used this setup when I wanted pics of my last violins. I had to adjust the lighting for the Front, Back, Side & Scroll shots. I used a sheet for the background that almost faded out to pure white, I think a piece of art store paper will help next time.

    I recently made a light box to take photos of some things and the results turned out VERY well, I would have to modify it and make it much larger to work for a violin.

    setup1.jpg

  10. What size of cartridge heater did you order? The Ibex uses a Vulcan 200W 120V 1/2"x2" heater. I replaced the Ibex cast form on my iron with a solid one I had custom CNC'd and it heats up very nicely, just not 100% happy with the shape I designed.

  11. Stradivari got most of his in Europe. Balkan Maple & Alpine Spruce, I think? There are alot of makers today, especially in North America, that use North American woods. Maple from Western Canada for example, and Spruce too, that's what I'm using on my latest violin.

  12. Scientific factors? I just look at it. Nice color, depth of figure in Maple, eveness of grain is Spruce, no cracks, dark streaks, worm holes. Price is also something I consider. To me there really isn't anything scientific about violin making, it's really fancy woodworking, as is all instrument making and I've made a few different kinds.

  13. Your glue squeeze out looks good, I hardly have any, it may almost appear like I have a starved joint, but once carved the joints appear fine. In the areas where you see no glue, there may by glue deeper along the depth of the joint, closer to where you finished piece is cut from. I have noticed this myself.

  14. I used a 3/8" #7 sweep gouge to clean the chip.

    fix1.jpg

    This was all I had left of the back cutoffs, a portion from the opposite end of the back (upper treble bout) that I had used to test some varnish on the other side of. I used the aluminum pattern to trace an edge for the part of the patch that butts up against the purfling.

    fix2.jpg

    Next I gouged out a patch. I did a bunch of test pieces and found my 1" #7 sweep bent gouge to make the best fitting patch.

    fix3.jpg

    Here it is trimmed a little and fitted.

    fix4.jpg

    This was my gluing setup, nothing special.

    fix5.jpg

    Here it is after some fine gouge work and scraping. Not invisible at all, probably because the wood wasn't from the same area, but better than a chip.

    fix6.jpg

    fix7.jpg

    fix8.jpg