M_A_T_T

Members
  • Content Count

    955
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by M_A_T_T

  1. quote: Originally posted by: Andres Sender Matt--would yours take 20 minutes to heat up if you put it on 'maximum' for the time it took to heat up? I went through my journal and I had written that on 3.5 it took 20 minutes to heat up, then got too hot and I had to turn it down to about 2. I suspect it would work, as I can hear something inside the unit click periodically, and I believe this to be the heater being turned on and off. The higher the control setting the longer the cartridge would remain on, so it may very well heat up faster if set on Hi, but be careful. The in
  2. quote: Originally posted by: C.B.Fiddler He just emailed me that it takes only a few minutes to heat up. CB Mine takes 20 minutes to heat up, I wonder what kind of heating element it uses.
  3. Some one placed a bid on it, was it one of us?
  4. quote: Originally posted by: C.B.Fiddler I think that Matt (and I) are asking if it is sold or hollow. Casting may infer that it is a hollowed form that aluminum is "cast" in. That's what I meant, cast as per the Ibex (hollow inside). quote: Originally posted by: David Tseng What I worry about this bending iron is the electronic section will fail first and the replacement parts are not easy to come by. If this happens in 5 to 10 years, one can always remove the electronics and put in a cheap potentiometer to control the temperature like the old Ibex. This is one
  5. quote: Originally posted by: M_A_T_T Anyone know if it's solid or cast? I work in a metal shop and asked about solid vs cast. I was told cast heats up very quickly and holds the heat compared to billet aluminum. Based on the size and my experience having one made, I would guess it's cast. It looks taller than the one I had milled from a billet, and the one I had made was pushing the limits of the machine due to the cutter length. Cast would probably be cheaper to have produced anyways. The main thing I would like to know is whether it's solid or hollow. Solid is desireable
  6. Anyone know if it's solid or cast?
  7. quote: Originally posted by: C.B.Fiddler This shape looks very good. I may get one.
  8. Very nice. Do you polish out your final coat of varnish?
  9. quote: Originally posted by: C.B.Fiddler I know that Stewart MacDonald offers an iron with a threaded insert that accepts a cylinder for tighter curves. Is this what you use? I did have that mounted on my Ibex for a while. I had to drill and tap the 1/4-20 threaded hole for it. It helped, but I much prefer my design.
  10. quote: Originally posted by: C.B.Fiddler Also, would you be opposed to showing us your modification? More than happy to. http://www.maestronet.com/foru...ht_key=y&keyword1=iron
  11. quote: Originally posted by: MANFIO I imagine that, for those who don't like the IBEX shape, it's ease to attach a metal or aluminium piece with a different shape to the IBEX iron. It is. I'm surprized by the charring in that last photo.
  12. quote: Originally posted by: Andres Sender Remember that mounting screws will also transmit heat. Apparently this is not an issue with the Ibex? They just go through holes in the wood and are anchored by a nut and washer each. It doesn't seem to be an issue.
  13. You have patients. I don't know that I could sit there and cut that much aluminum with a hacksaw. Do you plan to cut off the finished shape and attach it to a base, or leave it on the block of uncut aluminum?
  14. The Joseph Hammerl varnish I am testing has actually been drying overnight just in my workshop, without sunlight. Some homemade stuff I am also tesing requires sunlight. I will most likely go with the JOHA varnish, in which case I won't use the tippy jig.
  15. I just finished the attachment for my fan. It uses a wooden holder tool I previously made. I may stick some rubber pieces along the inside for a tighter fit. It works very well, the fan has no trouble operating with the violin on top, and it does not move too fast at all on the lowest setting. I purposely situated the fixture right above the axis of the gear that moves the fan head left & right. This way the violin simply rotates on the endpin as an axis instead of a slight side to side movement.
  16. I am very near the varnish stage with my next violin. I will most likely be using one of the oil varnishes I am testing, and one thing that I've been thinking of is how the violin will be situated outside in the sun to help cure the varnish. I was just thinking today, why not attach a jig to a fan, the kind with the swivling head that goes back and forth, and set the violin on it? We have a couple fans like that, the range of movement is just short of ninety degrees. That much movement would allow for a decent amount of area to be hit by sunlight, like the sides & back, or sides &
  17. The photos and lighting are nice, but the background isn't as white as I thought it would be. I used this setup when I wanted pics of my last violins. I had to adjust the lighting for the Front, Back, Side & Scroll shots. I used a sheet for the background that almost faded out to pure white, I think a piece of art store paper will help next time. I recently made a light box to take photos of some things and the results turned out VERY well, I would have to modify it and make it much larger to work for a violin.
  18. What size of cartridge heater did you order? The Ibex uses a Vulcan 200W 120V 1/2"x2" heater. I replaced the Ibex cast form on my iron with a solid one I had custom CNC'd and it heats up very nicely, just not 100% happy with the shape I designed.
  19. Stradivari got most of his in Europe. Balkan Maple & Alpine Spruce, I think? There are alot of makers today, especially in North America, that use North American woods. Maple from Western Canada for example, and Spruce too, that's what I'm using on my latest violin.
  20. Scientific factors? I just look at it. Nice color, depth of figure in Maple, eveness of grain is Spruce, no cracks, dark streaks, worm holes. Price is also something I consider. To me there really isn't anything scientific about violin making, it's really fancy woodworking, as is all instrument making and I've made a few different kinds.
  21. Your glue squeeze out looks good, I hardly have any, it may almost appear like I have a starved joint, but once carved the joints appear fine. In the areas where you see no glue, there may by glue deeper along the depth of the joint, closer to where you finished piece is cut from. I have noticed this myself.
  22. quote: Originally posted by: Tim McTigue Great work, Matt, and I bet it mostly disappears under varnish... Thanks, that is what I am hoping too. The color difference may be due to that newly carved piece not having been out in the air and light for so many months as the rest of the back.
  23. I used a 3/8" #7 sweep gouge to clean the chip. This was all I had left of the back cutoffs, a portion from the opposite end of the back (upper treble bout) that I had used to test some varnish on the other side of. I used the aluminum pattern to trace an edge for the part of the patch that butts up against the purfling. Next I gouged out a patch. I did a bunch of test pieces and found my 1" #7 sweep bent gouge to make the best fitting patch. Here it is trimmed a little and fitted. This was my gluing setup, nothing special. Here it is after some fine gouge work and sc
  24. quote: Originally posted by: upnorth I thought that I would put my money where my mouth is and show an inlay example. So here is what I did using Michigan Red Maple. here This is pretty much what I have done. It is gluing and I will post pics of the process and final product when complete.
  25. I have ordered some of the JOHA Hammerl varnish. Even kif it is not the best available, it will be better that the stuff I was making myself. I'll report my results.