M_A_T_T

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  1. quote: Originally posted by: Andres Sender Matt--would yours take 20 minutes to heat up if you put it on 'maximum' for the time it took to heat up? I went through my journal and I had written that on 3.5 it took 20 minutes to heat up, then got too hot and I had to turn it down to about 2. I suspect it would work, as I can hear something inside the unit click periodically, and I believe this to be the heater being turned on and off. The higher the control setting the longer the cartridge would remain on, so it may very well heat up faster if set on Hi, but be careful. The instructions from Ibex state leaving it on Hi will damage the cartridge, so you would definately need to closely monitor it if you were to try it on Hi.
  2. quote: Originally posted by: C.B.Fiddler He just emailed me that it takes only a few minutes to heat up. CB Mine takes 20 minutes to heat up, I wonder what kind of heating element it uses.
  3. Some one placed a bid on it, was it one of us?
  4. quote: Originally posted by: C.B.Fiddler I think that Matt (and I) are asking if it is sold or hollow. Casting may infer that it is a hollowed form that aluminum is "cast" in. That's what I meant, cast as per the Ibex (hollow inside). quote: Originally posted by: David Tseng What I worry about this bending iron is the electronic section will fail first and the replacement parts are not easy to come by. If this happens in 5 to 10 years, one can always remove the electronics and put in a cheap potentiometer to control the temperature like the old Ibex. This is one of the reasons I am going with the cheaper one myself. quote: It is solid, as far as I can tell, just by the shear weight of this things over 3.5 Lbs. and the cello one more than double that. I weighed my Ibex with my solid milled form and it came to 3lbs 14oz. It has a large wooden base. This one has a small metal base. Could we safely assume it is solid?
  5. quote: Originally posted by: M_A_T_T Anyone know if it's solid or cast? I work in a metal shop and asked about solid vs cast. I was told cast heats up very quickly and holds the heat compared to billet aluminum. Based on the size and my experience having one made, I would guess it's cast. It looks taller than the one I had milled from a billet, and the one I had made was pushing the limits of the machine due to the cutter length. Cast would probably be cheaper to have produced anyways. The main thing I would like to know is whether it's solid or hollow. Solid is desireable. I thnk whether it is solid or hollow I will be getting the $119 version, as I just do the water test on my iron.
  6. Anyone know if it's solid or cast?
  7. quote: Originally posted by: C.B.Fiddler This shape looks very good. I may get one.
  8. Very nice. Do you polish out your final coat of varnish?
  9. quote: Originally posted by: C.B.Fiddler I know that Stewart MacDonald offers an iron with a threaded insert that accepts a cylinder for tighter curves. Is this what you use? I did have that mounted on my Ibex for a while. I had to drill and tap the 1/4-20 threaded hole for it. It helped, but I much prefer my design.
  10. quote: Originally posted by: C.B.Fiddler Also, would you be opposed to showing us your modification? More than happy to. http://www.maestronet.com/foru...ht_key=y&keyword1=iron
  11. quote: Originally posted by: MANFIO I imagine that, for those who don't like the IBEX shape, it's ease to attach a metal or aluminium piece with a different shape to the IBEX iron. It is. I'm surprized by the charring in that last photo.
  12. quote: Originally posted by: Andres Sender Remember that mounting screws will also transmit heat. Apparently this is not an issue with the Ibex? They just go through holes in the wood and are anchored by a nut and washer each. It doesn't seem to be an issue.
  13. You have patients. I don't know that I could sit there and cut that much aluminum with a hacksaw. Do you plan to cut off the finished shape and attach it to a base, or leave it on the block of uncut aluminum?
  14. The Joseph Hammerl varnish I am testing has actually been drying overnight just in my workshop, without sunlight. Some homemade stuff I am also tesing requires sunlight. I will most likely go with the JOHA varnish, in which case I won't use the tippy jig.
  15. I just finished the attachment for my fan. It uses a wooden holder tool I previously made. I may stick some rubber pieces along the inside for a tighter fit. It works very well, the fan has no trouble operating with the violin on top, and it does not move too fast at all on the lowest setting. I purposely situated the fixture right above the axis of the gear that moves the fan head left & right. This way the violin simply rotates on the endpin as an axis instead of a slight side to side movement.