Michael_Molnar

I think many makers know that a varnish that never dries is one that was undercooked and failed to get some cross-linking underway. Slow drying varnishes can sometimes be corrected with a chemical drier.

The Cecil Strad poster's arching patterns are useless; however, the photos are superb.

I know that burnt rosin is insoluble. I have seen that. It is essentially carbon. I also had a difficult time dissolving cooked FF rosin, but I never confirmed this.

When I visited the museum bookstore, this book was the first I selected. IIRC, it cost about $100 and is worth it. I also have the Tuscan volume which is also another nice volume.

What causes this? Is it damage from a fall?

If you don't have good legal advice, why test the laws?

Ask your lawyer.

There are bigger issues. A plane can cut the bar along the fiber grain, but not across the grain. The issue for me is the razor sharp shavings that will stab like a knife and draw blood. Leather gloves are needed. If it is sanded, face masks should be used. I don't want to become an apologist for carbon fiber problems, but it is no problem for me to insert fiber bars and rods now that I learned what to do. Maybe on future necks I will lower the bar and cement a wood strip over the channel. It's easy to do. Stay tuned.

Rock West Composites, Inc. 1602 Precision Park Lane San Diego, CA 92173 DragonPlate looks good too.

Right. This means that all surfaces must be flat and stable.

2 years ago at Joe Thrift's workshop he recommended putting in a carbon rod to add stiffness and protection from warping. So, I set up my CNC to mill in the channel 6.35 mm x 5 mm deep to accept the bar shown in the photo. Joe preferred having the bar below the surface to which the fingerboard is glued. I guess that would be good for future repair work. But I wanted the fiber bar to make contact with the FB, believing that vibrations would be better served. The channel is a snug fit and slow-setting epoxy fills in the end voids and locks in the bar. There is also a hollow round rod running vertically in the heel from the fiber bar down to the button surface. This is 5 mm dia with a 2.5 mm hollow that keeps weight down. I forget the suppliers of the bar and rod I found by googling. It was not Stew-Mac. Warning: Wear gloves to avoid fiberglass splinters.

Sold.

Caolin is used by some varnishers to soak up olive oil-infused rottenstone from sanding varnish. Just dust it on and wipe up. Repeat until the surface is oil-free. I learned that at Joe Robson"s course.

Understood. I was trying to understand sospori's point with this pointless example.

The nut position does dip way below the top rib line. Is that your issue?