Michael_Molnar

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About Michael_Molnar

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    Stargazer
  • Birthday 09/15/1945

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    http://www.michaelmolnar.com
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    Michael R. Molnar

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    Male
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    Warren, NJ
  • Interests
    Astronomy, History, Optics, Great Ideas, and Interesting People.

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  1. Here are two photos of the top plate. First is the outside just before I fit the purfling; the second is the inside.
  2. Nice job, Don. I also enjoyed the surface modeling posts and agree to move them to a CNC thread.
  3. Thanks, UL. Here’s another family photo. Here is the flip side being hogged out. This end mill is a 1/4” 0.060” corner bullnose. The edge is about 7 mm thick and I’m taking the plate thickness down to 4+ mm.
  4. I use this straight flute for holes (!) and edges. It is neither up- nor downcut. Yes, the edge will have fuzz with this cutter, but what does that matter? I know you are thinking of chip removal, but wood does not behave like a metal. The wood chips fly out. I think it’s due to air turbulence. For deep holes, I stick with upcut spiral flutes.
  5. Here is the next step, contouring using a new model made with the help of a friend’s critiques. I am using a bull nosed end mill with 0.060” corners. This photo is taken through the window of the dust cabinet.
  6. The Alberti design has a sharp edge but it is recessed into the body unlike the Herdim. The Herdim works well, but it is a crude design by comparison. When you hold either in your hand, you know which is superior.
  7. That Herdim shaper has very sharp edges on the blade corners that will cut your thumb as you turn the peg. I switched to Alberti with no more bloody thumbs.
  8. After a long hiatus, I fired up the CNC after making a lot of repairs. Like me, the machine is showing its age. However, we are still functioning. These photos show the plate shape and hold-down tabs which are sawn off after the top surface is done. The next process is to do the surface contour tomorrow.
  9. How can anyone give advice without a photo?
  10. $10 shipping for two pads! Rip-off.
  11. I suspect this is shellac turning cloudy due to moisture. It’s similar to the ring mark left on furniture by a wet drinking glass. Google and read how to deal with it. I do not use shellac, so I forgot how to address this classic problem.
  12. The software part of Don’s post needs a lot of emphasis. A user must learn how to design in CAD. Then, the CAM part is no easy thing either. As Don noted doing 3D can be daunting. If you enjoy figuring things out, you’ll love CNC. However, it will take time away from making in the beginning, but put you on warp speed later.
  13. I imagine it’s mostly calcium carbonate and acid will eat it away. Try diluted vinegar and proceed very cautiously. I would experiment first on blanks. Also, try just dirtying it up with some pigment and even linseed oil rubbed into its pores.