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Everything posted by H.R.Fisher

  1. congratulations Edd !! thats impressive.
  2. I saw this work sharp 3000 by Lee valley. I thought this would be a good grinder to sharpen gouges. Especially with the DMT magna discs. Is anyone currently using one or has used in the past. I would like to hear some reviews. Thanks Henry
  3. Thanks for all your responses.I think as per Davids advice I'll Go higher arching and perhaps thinner, not sure about no BB.I'll see how it works out with the modes as I proceed. It is very close grained with the wider grain to the center. When tapping it has a very clear bell ring to it. We'll See how it works out.
  4. I have a piece of very dense spruce [ SG 50 ]. I want to use it and would like to know where I should be heading with it. High arching,low arching,thin or thick,etc? Your expert opinions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Henry
  5. Another perspective .Only made with hand made CNC routers should qualify as hand made violin.
  6. H.R.Fisher

    F-hole ?

    Thanks so much Micheal, That has been very helpful.
  7. H.R.Fisher

    F-hole ?

    My question is regarding the lower hole of the f when viewed from the side Should it run parallel with the edge in the north and south direction.
  8. H.R.Fisher

    F-hole ?

    As a novice I never really paid much attention to it. I assumed there would be a correct way to position them in light of all the other important nuances in violin making. It's good to know there is some freedom here.
  9. H.R.Fisher

    F-hole ?

    How should the lower f hole on a strad be situated in relation to the edge? Should it sit parallel with the edge or should it follow the arch? Thanks in advance Henry
  10. I just purchased an engleman spruce top with a sg of 34.5, cut in 1979. I am under the impression that working toward a low plate weight and a high mode 5 ring tone will make a great sounding fiddle.I am aware that there are many factors as well that contribute to a great sounding instrument. Am I on the right track regarding my assumption about weight and ring tone? thanks Henry
  11. I just got the medicei strad templates from IV and i now need the poster as well. Is it available? I been looking all over the web but cant find it.
  12. I am interested in understanding the tonal effects of various weights, heights ,shape and position of the base bar. Thank you in advance for your responses. Henry
  13. I use a jointer with spiral cutting blades. It does an excellent job even on hard curly maple. The down side is they are very expensive. I am fortunate to have access to my sons jointer at his cabinet shop.
  14. Looks like you have lots of creative and artistic talent. It is certainly apparent you have the inherent skills to excel in violin making. However you may find it somewhat frustrating because of the constraints required in violin making. The parameters are quite restricted and the self expression is very limited. Being able to emulate the classic masters seems to be the aspiration of most contemporary makers. I'm not suggesting you have to confine yourself to that but to become recognized in today's violin making community one must acquiesce to the status quo. The best to you; Henry
  15. International violin has it's lowest grade at 19.00. You can't get it much better than that.
  16. What are some methods used to finish sound hole edges.Or what is considered proper in contemporary violin making.I prefer the dry, dark charcoal look. Is this an acceptable finish and if so, how is this accomplished? Thanks in advance for your responses, Henry
  17. Fit the SP first. It's good if you can look through the end pin hole to see how the post is fitting.
  18. Am I understanding this statement correctly? Are you suggesting that to build a violin with an award winning tone it can only be accomplished with top quality tone wood? This is really the question at the core of my original post.
  19. I am curious as to how much the selection of tone wood is attributed to the sound of an instrument.I'm especially referring to the choice of the spruce top. I am aware that there are multiple pieces,parts and methods that contribute to the final tone. Considering all things being equal how much of the pie would be attributed to the choice of wood? Thanks, Henry
  20. I am only assuming it's too thin because the area vibrates excessively when the open note is bowed. When I put a finger on the spot it quiets down. Are you suggesting there may be another cause?
  21. What is the method used to correct a too thin area on a spruce top. The violin in consideration has an area on the lower left bout that is super activated when playing the open A causing an unusual loud unpleasant sound. I am thinking of building it up with layers of hide glue and saw dust. What are the recommended solutions. Thanks in advance, Henry
  22. Very nice! Good to see other amateurs like myself being brave enough to post their work o MN.