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Everything posted by H.R.Fisher

  1. Thanks Don, I guess i'll work for my normal range of free plate At 350 M5 and 70 g weight see how that works out.
  2. The grain width of 20 to 22 gr per inch. So my question is what shape, hgt, thickness should I shoot for for best results? appreciate your response, Henry
  3. H.R.Fisher

    SG .45?

    I have a piece of fine grained 32 year old spruce top with SG of 45, I'm soliciting your advice on the particulars of how to work with this density. Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Henry
  4. Yes, Thanks Davide, Thats what i was looking for.
  5. I was looking for the simplistic version where you just fed in the dimensions and the weight and the answer would come up.
  6. Where can I find an online wood density calculator? There was one online which for some reason has been taken off. Thanks Henry
  7. On a white violin that I strung up I was not satisfied with the neck angle so I decided to take it apart. In the process I broke the button off right in to the purfling line. What are my options? I prefer not to take the back off lest I do more injury if there is another solution. thanks in advance for your responses, Henry
  8. Auto body filler,file and sand to shape and stain or paint to match
  9. correction, I only received 2nd place on tone. No awards on workmenship.
  10. The tops are usually between 35 and 42 sg . Free plate [ before BB or FF]mode 5- 330 to 350,Thickness varies according to wood density for a finish wt. w/ BB and FF around 70g. Back wt.100 to 110 g. Arching hgt back and top 15mm. Rib hgt 30 mm
  11. Yes, instruments that I have built
  12. Most of the instruments lean toward the dark,hollow or as my title indicates "boomer" type of tone. Even if I follow the arching specs of the specific model it seems the result is always toward that end of the spectrum. What are the contributing factors to this end and what can be done to bring out a brighter tone? As always, Thanks in advance for your response. Henry
  13. Violin making can be an enjoyable hobby even tho one never makes the pros. Golf is a challenge and fun, never mind Tiger. Enjoy the journey!
  14. As a self taught amateur my reason for the post is to solicit helpful information,not to inform of my method Any information and correction would be appreciated. Thanks Henry
  15. What is the proper/ critical position of the base bar, Should the first priority position be where it sets below the bridge base foot,or is it more important to have the correct angle and or measurements from the center line? My usual placement is 2mm in from the outside of the bridge foot and the angle across the grain of secondary importance. Would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks Henry
  16. Just a small gnarl dipping down/concave which I had to clear away as it kept breaking out till it was all cleared away. Thanks for your responses,think i'll continue with it and as Don suggested keep the bridge on the high side so it can be replaced if needed. What is good enough for messie should be good enough for me. Thanks again, Henry
  17. I am working on a top that had a small gnarl on the very top. In order to clear it I needed to work it down to a hgt. of 14mm. I don't want to throw it out if it can be used. Would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks Henry
  18. A power jointer with spiral heads cutters is the perfect and the most stress free method. Straight blades are not the best because of chatter ,spiral blades are a must.
  19. I have the del gesu alard 1742 poster which shows the inside top dimension of the peg box at 14.2 mm. is this correct? This seems quite wide.. Awaiting your response. Thanks Henry
  20. I am looking at the Del gesu alard 1742 poster. The top opening of the peg box is 14.2 mm. Is this measurement correct ?. This seems unusally wide. Thanks Henry
  21. Thanks David, Your video is very informative and helpful. Henry
  22. I would like info on strad plate edge profile / cross section.. Also what methods are used to acquire that smooth edge especially on the spruce. Thanks in advance Henry
  23. I have been reading about roasting guitar wood in a convection oven to darken the wood. Would this process work for spruce violin tops? Also what about putting tonewood in the microwave? What effect might this have on tone and structural integrity ? Thanks, Henry
  24. congratulations Edd !! thats impressive.
  25. I saw this work sharp 3000 by Lee valley. I thought this would be a good grinder to sharpen gouges. Especially with the DMT magna discs. Is anyone currently using one or has used in the past. I would like to hear some reviews. Thanks Henry
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