H.R.Fisher

I used a sugar seal than a few coats of clear spirit under joha colored oil varnish from International violin co.

Yes Jim; I noticed that too on the pic, The actual dim .is 30mm at the bottom and 28.5 at the neck.

Here is my most recent creation. Take a look and give your most critical evaluation. MN is the only helpful resource I have to help me improve my craft. Positive complements are encouraging and appreciated but that's not what i'm fishing for. It takes a lot of nerve as an amateur to post my work here but as mentioned I need your input to know where I'm at or where I'm going. Thanks for your consideration Henry

I have been offered some ambrosa maple which I am considering using for a violin back. I am altogether unfamiliar with this wood. Has anyone used this and if so what are the structural and tonal expectations? Thank you in advance, Henry

I would like to know how to finish sound hole edges.I like the look of dark crisp and dry looking edges but have as of yet not found a method to accomplish it. I mostly end up with sort of a smudgy looking varnish build up on them. Your help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Henry

Has anyone heard of a maker/ repairer by the name of K. Betts of Sunbury Pa? I recently opened a violin that was repaired by him/her dated 3/10/28. This is especially of lnterest to me as Sunbury Pa. is in my neck of the woods. thanks Henry

hmm, so I guess I'd best stick to keeping the line straight. I thought it to be a complimentary feature that I might want to incorporate in my future builds. I live and learn. Thanks so much Henry

Yes Conor , you are understanding my question. I am referring to the point where the ribs meet the neck. The ribs are cut convex and the neck concave. I recently rebuilt an old violin,including new ribs and used the original neck and I actually had to cut the mortise along the ribs convex. I also have an old Hopf fiddle that has the same feature. I don't think it's just an optical illusion, I used a straight edge to verify it. Or may it be that I'm perhaps getting old and cross eyed. Thanks all the same; Henry

I am referring to the line from the overstand to the button where the ribs meet the neck. Looking at the neck from the scroll end.

I have been using varnish from IVC and also using Glair as a ground. I mix the glair of one egg ,one teaspoon white sugar with one oz. water. I brush it on and than wipe off any access after a few minutes. I'm certainly not a pro at finishing but this seams to be working so far.

I have noticed some fiddles have a slight concave on the neck where the neck is mortised into the body rather than a straight line. Is this considered a positive feature or is it just characteristic of certain models? I personally like the appearance of this but don't want to do it if it's not considered proper. Thanks for your consideration Henry

CORRECTION ! I said I used a Stroble template. I meant to say Harry Wake. Too many books and perhaps bit of dementia.

In checking again, The H.Stroble template which I nave been using has a 14mm radius,a tad more than the 1/2 " that I had posted. A quarter is all but 12mm R so decreasing the radius a few mm should make evreything work out. Thanks for all your help. Henry

A quarter size radius?? Yes, I think that would get it where it needs to be.I have been making it 1/2 " radius. I'll give the quater size some consideration. as always ,thanks for the info

I have read that from the thumb stop [ the hollow of the neck heel] to the point where the top plate meets the neck should be should be 26mm. I find that using this dim. makes for a very short back button. According to the Stroble book and also to look correct the button should be a minimum of 12.5 mm long .Am I missing something? Thanks in advance for your replies