H.R.Fisher

Thanks Don, I guess i'll work for my normal range of free plate At 350 M5 and 70 g weight see how that works out.

The grain width of 20 to 22 gr per inch. So my question is what shape, hgt, thickness should I shoot for for best results? appreciate your response, Henry

I have a piece of fine grained 32 year old spruce top with SG of 45, I'm soliciting your advice on the particulars of how to work with this density. Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Henry

Yes, Thanks Davide, Thats what i was looking for.

I was looking for the simplistic version where you just fed in the dimensions and the weight and the answer would come up.

Where can I find an online wood density calculator? There was one online which for some reason has been taken off. Thanks Henry

On a white violin that I strung up I was not satisfied with the neck angle so I decided to take it apart. In the process I broke the button off right in to the purfling line. What are my options? I prefer not to take the back off lest I do more injury if there is another solution. thanks in advance for your responses, Henry

Auto body filler,file and sand to shape and stain or paint to match

correction, I only received 2nd place on tone. No awards on workmenship.

The tops are usually between 35 and 42 sg . Free plate [ before BB or FF]mode 5- 330 to 350,Thickness varies according to wood density for a finish wt. w/ BB and FF around 70g. Back wt.100 to 110 g. Arching hgt back and top 15mm. Rib hgt 30 mm

Yes, instruments that I have built

Most of the instruments lean toward the dark,hollow or as my title indicates "boomer" type of tone. Even if I follow the arching specs of the specific model it seems the result is always toward that end of the spectrum. What are the contributing factors to this end and what can be done to bring out a brighter tone? As always, Thanks in advance for your response. Henry

Violin making can be an enjoyable hobby even tho one never makes the pros. Golf is a challenge and fun, never mind Tiger. Enjoy the journey!

As a self taught amateur my reason for the post is to solicit helpful information,not to inform of my method Any information and correction would be appreciated. Thanks Henry

What is the proper/ critical position of the base bar, Should the first priority position be where it sets below the bridge base foot,or is it more important to have the correct angle and or measurements from the center line? My usual placement is 2mm in from the outside of the bridge foot and the angle across the grain of secondary importance. Would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks Henry