H.R.Fisher

A power jointer with spiral heads cutters is the perfect and the most stress free method. Straight blades are not the best because of chatter ,spiral blades are a must.

I have the del gesu alard 1742 poster which shows the inside top dimension of the peg box at 14.2 mm. is this correct? This seems quite wide.. Awaiting your response. Thanks Henry

I am looking at the Del gesu alard 1742 poster. The top opening of the peg box is 14.2 mm. Is this measurement correct ?. This seems unusally wide. Thanks Henry

Thanks David, Your video is very informative and helpful. Henry

I would like info on strad plate edge profile / cross section.. Also what methods are used to acquire that smooth edge especially on the spruce. Thanks in advance Henry

I have been reading about roasting guitar wood in a convection oven to darken the wood. Would this process work for spruce violin tops? Also what about putting tonewood in the microwave? What effect might this have on tone and structural integrity ? Thanks, Henry

congratulations Edd !! thats impressive.

I saw this work sharp 3000 by Lee valley. I thought this would be a good grinder to sharpen gouges. Especially with the DMT magna discs. Is anyone currently using one or has used in the past. I would like to hear some reviews. Thanks Henry

Yes of course.

Thanks for all your responses.I think as per Davids advice I'll Go higher arching and perhaps thinner, not sure about no BB.I'll see how it works out with the modes as I proceed. It is very close grained with the wider grain to the center. When tapping it has a very clear bell ring to it. We'll See how it works out.

I have a piece of very dense spruce [ SG 50 ]. I want to use it and would like to know where I should be heading with it. High arching,low arching,thin or thick,etc? Your expert opinions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Henry

Another perspective .Only made with hand made CNC routers should qualify as hand made violin.

Thanks so much Micheal, That has been very helpful.

My question is regarding the lower hole of the f when viewed from the side Should it run parallel with the edge in the north and south direction.

As a novice I never really paid much attention to it. I assumed there would be a correct way to position them in light of all the other important nuances in violin making. It's good to know there is some freedom here.