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Go0bur

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  1. Do you know enough about computers to do a complete reformat? If you have a Cd burner or something or a second harddrive, backup every file you want to keep and then do a complete reformat (as in, reformat the entire C: drive and then reinstall Windows, not just reinstall windows over top of them ) Defragging won't do much if you got a lot of junk programs floating around. If you also have too many programs running in the backgroiund that will do it. You can go to Start Menu -> Run -> Msconfig and look under the services and startup tab. Anything that you recognize that you don't want, unclick it. Helps quite a bit.
  2. If you practice other positions, you eventually see that some parts that jump strings a lot can be more conviently played in a position where you dont have to jump strings so much. Sometimes its listed in roman numerals above the notes. Other times, there is a number listed above the note to tell you what finger the note should be played with (implying the position). This also usually only occurs at points when notes switch or when notes are played with unusual fingers (so later notes played in that same position dont have numbers over them). Its something you slowly see as you learn the other positions.
  3. My Aubert is centered....well I would say centered, its not crooked though. Its a little tiny bit to the right of center...
  4. Hmm, well I dont really have any tricks...the problem is where I am we dont learn anything about sound until university level, and by then its math and theory and no more tricks. Its a shame really...
  5. i dont now who uses them. But steel core strings are used by fiddlers a lot for their sound and really fast response. I guess you would choose them if you wanted strings that are loud and last forever, and are absolutely durable and reliable. I guess you would choose them if you for some reason needed strings that were more reliable and durable than synthetics.
  6. There is an arm, wrist, and finger vibrato that you can use. Three basic ways. Usually you only use finger vibrato when you are playing so insanley fast, but yet still need to vibrate for some reason. As a result, you almost never use it, so most people dont use it.
  7. I dont understand... you mean the finger tip?
  8. But arent most strings wrapped in aluminum or silver, and not steel? Might as well just use cork or an eraser in that case.
  9. If the alcohol fumes are strong enough to condense to damage the violin, I would worry more about your breathing than the violin finish.... so yeah, it shoudlnt be a problem. You never need anymore than a cloth slightly damped on a very small area anyway.
  10. Just provide a counter opinion to Melvin, COUNTERPOINT: I dont beleive using alcohol to clean rosin off strings will do that as much as he seems to say. It doesn't spread the rosin around like he says it does and it doesnt seem to shorten my string life at all. I prefer to play on clean strings rather than strings grimed down by old rosin dust. The dissolved rosin wont creep into string crevices because the alcohol evaporates very quickly so that if you dab a cloth and touch it, it wont feel even damp, just a bit cold. As a result its not "pouring" in a thin film around your strings and the rosin-solvent won't pour into the string crevices. It just dissolves the rosin dust into the cloth because it is such a thing layer. The alcohol surface tension on the cloth will keep the dust-solvent from running around. It will stay on the cloth. PROPIETERY CLEANERS: are just a waste of money (for cleaning the fingerboard and strings, NOT the varish, you want a special cleaner for the varnish!). They all dissolve rosin, and alcohol will at least be sure to leave zero-residue. Its also a lot cheaper, already dries very quickly, and wont rust your strings (no water, and it dries very quickly)...just dont use the dilluted form at drugstores...use the pure kind at electronics supply stores. THAT SAID: f you dont feel confident that you cant keep alcohol off your varnish, then just dont do it. I havent had any near such problems with simply dabbing a small part of a cloth. You dont want anything to use that would soak up the alcohol, lest it be squeezed out onto your varnish. That doesnt happen with a damped tissue or cloth. BASICALLY, I do it all the time and have only had positive results. However, with regular dusting, rosin build-up should never become a problem anywhere on your violin (except for strings) whether it is varnish or fingerboards. On all areas except for the strings, rosin build-up will exist as loose rosin dust before it starts to cake on. As long as you dust regularily, the loose dust is easily removed and will never cake on. On the strings, however, the rosin will cake on and that is why I use alcohol to clean them. Even if I dry dust the strings, eventually rosin will still cake on no matter how frequently I dust. That is why I use alcohol to clean the strings.
  11. Silver will react with sulphurs in the air (like pollution, etc.). Silver doesnt react in clean air so humidity shouldnt be an issue. Could it be nickel silver? Nickel will react to nitrogen compounds in sweat...although my nickel silver winding tarnish is only noticeable when you directly compare to brand new winding. I forget what ammonia is made of, but apparently ammonia will turn your silver black almost instantly. So....yeah. The silver-on-copper thing is also pretty bad because the silver has a significantly lower electronegativity than copper (it attracts electrons better than copper holds onto its own electrons). In physical contact (a path for electrons to flow) and in the presence of an electrolytic liquid (to let ions to flow, maybe sweat I am not sure), it will behave like a battery and the copper will become corroded...so once a bit of copper is exposed for sweat to bridge silver and copper the reaction starts and then you galvanic corrosion plus oxidation going on. Im just throwing that out there. I dont know how it would apply exactly to silver-copper winding, I just know that they dont direct combination use this on electrical connectors because it causes them to fail.
  12. Why wouldnt x-rays kil the insects? It kills everthing else...given sufficient strength. Whether it damages the instrument if its super powered...I dont know.
  13. The Shar American Case COmpany Ones are also very good. But if price is more of an issue, Bobelock is a better choice since most of the Ameican Case Company cases are >$200, except on I believe...the Manhatten.
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