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About jdevries

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  1. Thank you for your sharing and for your feedback! I really appreciate it when Maestronet works well. Chris— I was thinking of getting a router plane, like the small one lee valley makes. Power tools are a road I am not eager to go down.
  2. I can only share what I use, but I also know not everyone does the same. It's a combined result of how I was taught + the tools I happen to own because I like them & could acquire them on my budget at the time. Block plane for initial thickness (I could probably use the chisel instead if I was trying to go really minimalist/budget) Wide-ish curved knife for the feet — http://jpschmidtviolins.com/mknife.html A flat file to clean up the top curve (but I suppose sandpaper would work too) Narrow chisel for tapering the inside of the kidney wings and heart dangle-y bit (but, honestly, the knife will do this just fine) Narrow knife for the cutouts, bevels, etc. — https://www.etsy.com/shop/TBsmithy [just tell him you need a bridge knife] Wide chisel for the belly profile Scraper (but many use sandpaper here) Joint round edge precision files for the notches (but if you only want to buy one, a rat-tail file will do) And then I have my sharpening stones, which happen to be a set of Shaptons but whatever works for you. I have the Grizzly Tormek knock-off and it works just fine but it's hardly necessary. Don't forget bridge templates (I made my own but they are pretty cheap) and possibly a jig or planing stop, depending on how you like to work, to hold the thing. You may also find https://trianglestrings.com/carving-a-violin-bridge/ informative.
  3. I know that some folks have been regularly been putting carbon fiber rods in the necks of their instruments, especially cellos. I am curious about people's shop procedures for this. What shape of rod have you been using? What size? What kind of glue? Putting a veneer over it? Any experience with violas or violins? Etc. p.s. My thanks in advance! p.p.s. I am not interested in another debate about the pros, cons, or whys…but I also know this is maestronet and I probably can't stop y’all!
  4. Hi folks, I would love to get my hands on the out of print Strad poster P119 of the “Maggini Contralto Viola”. Any and all leads are appreciated. Cheers.,.
  5. I still like Hill. I know many folks like the Götze variety. It’s less soft and shmear-y. We also keep soap & rosin powder around for particularly offensive pegs.
  6. jdevries

    Bending Ribs

    The Chinese bending irons (more airfoil than tear-drop shaped, to my mind) on eBay seem to work just fine. FWIW I dampen the ribs somewhat. The steam helps the heat penetrate, but most of the bending happens dry—i.e. once you no longer hear the sizzle of evaporation.
  7. Actually it came out last year, but it has only just been released in the U.S. via Netflix. A Noble Intention (original title Publieke Werken) The violin making is fairly incidental to the plot but there are some nice shots of the workshop and the story is kicked off, in part, by the consignment and sale of an instrument. It’s an interesting story but I can’t say it’s a particularly good movie. I just ordered the book that it’s based on in the hopes that it’s better. Anyway, just thought folks might be interested.
  8. Your doodles remind me a bit of this design, which was apparently a thing back in the day. (All photos from Die Alemannische Schule)
  9. I believe this is what we currently have in the shop, and it seems to work. http://www.dreisternekreide.com/dsk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=39&category_id=13&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=80〈=en. If I remember I'll double check tomorrow.
  10. And here I thought "luthier" was pronounced "slightly pretentious guitar maker".
  11. Summary: Power efficiency in the violin Full article: The evolution of air resonance power efficiency in the violin and its ancestors The abstract from the article:
  12. “Imitation, Genetic Lineages, and Time Influenced the Morphological Evolution of the Violin” It doesn’t look like there is anything new and earth shattering here, but still a fun and interesting read.
  13. The Nebel workshop is in Massachussets: http://www.mcla.edu/CE/professionaldevelopment/ I think the answer to your question depends, in part, on how much woodworking / hand tool experience you have. If you feel comfortable using (and sharpening!) a knife, chissel, etc. then a book might be enough. If you’re coming to this without those types of skills then (a) don’t panic you can still learn ( a workshop or something similar may be more appropriate (though, going it alone needn’t be hopeless).
  14. FWIW: I have been using an LED bulb in my work lamp for a few months now and am mostly pleased. The incandescent bulb I had been using got very hot, which was rather unpleasant when my hand was working closely under it. The LED bulb has allowed me to continue using a very bright (brighter, in fact) light without the heat. When I bought mine I found there was an adequate range of spectrum ranges to choose from, though it took a bit of research to make sure I was getting what I wanted. The only downside I have found is that the LED bulb uses multiple LEDs to produce the required brightness and color; because there are multiple light sources in the bulb shadows aren’t always as crisp as I would like. It isn’t enough of an issue to prompt me to change bulbs, but I don’t think I’m done looking for a better solution either … though I try to use sun light and a big window as much as possible! p.s. I have half-heartedly considered the candle idea before and was actually wondering whether Strad would have used candles or oil lamps and how much of a difference that would in fact make, if any, especially for varnish.