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Singingmaple

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Everything posted by Singingmaple

  1. If you used this stuff then it's not so bad. Still it's best to only use Hot hide glue on your instrument.
  2. Thanks for the help guys, A couple years ago I made a violin after the Guarneri 1741 "Sainton" It has more of a deep woody viola sound to it than any others I have made. I decided to enlarge that pattern to 360mm and got started on it today. I'll have to resize the f-holes to get the stop right but it should work out ok at 200mm.
  3. Thanks for your advice guys.. I tried to talk her into a larger model with no luck. She plays a 14" now and wants to stay with it. I havn't been able to get my hands on the viola that she plays now to get measurements but think it is probably best to try to build what she is used to size wise and make the best of it.
  4. I have someone who wants me to make a 14" viola. Are all the measurements the same as a violin except the ribs? Or do I need measurements for the Neck, stop, neck angle, bridge width/height, FB width/radius? Does anyone have experience on one of these?
  5. Just do a search on him. He's someone that was banned.
  6. I found a couple of past threads that have some good information. http://www.maestronet.com/foru...0548&messageid=250561 http://www.maestronet.com/foru...59414&messageid=259662
  7. Personally, I would forward the Email to Ebay and walk away from the deal. Ebay wont be very happy about him trying to sell the item outside of Ebay to a second place bidder.
  8. I was enlarging some of the new Tarisio photo's to see how nice the details were. I thought I'd share..
  9. Yes please.. This addition would come in quite handy..
  10. Ken it looks great for your first. It's quite an accomplishment getting your first one completed. When I trace out my outline I trace the upper and lower bout sides of the corners the same distance of the rest of the body outline. Then the Cbout side, I curve out away from the corner 1-2mm. On my first couple of violins I curved the outline out on both sides of the corner and got corners that ended up pointing out to far. I was making them too wide and to long. It's one of the things that are tough to make right, until you can see them. It amaizes me to set my 20th and my first side by side and look at the differences and that I can see the differences. At the time I was quite impressed with my first. Now, it hides in a box. Hey Matt, the right side looks great.
  11. Most expensive firewood I ever bought.
  12. I finally recieved the Bolts John sent. It turns out he shipped them Sept 7th instead of July 14th as he stated. He must have been mixed up. The grain is nice and tight but the bolts have so much twist that I won't be able to use them.
  13. I'm having trouble with them as well. I ordered The begining of July and havn't received my wood yet. I recently got cussed out for asking when it had been shipped and was informed that he will not reship because he has no way to track the delivery until after it has been delivered. I have a file-full of Colorfull emails from this guy. I couldn't recomend Wood from John at Alaska Tonewood
  14. LOL... Item pulled by Ebay. I wonder if they got caught Shill bidding.
  15. The label in the picture I showed is said to be authentic and the Instrument has been age dated to be accurate. I can't say it was written by Stainer as I wasn't there when it was written. The one pictured on ebay looks to be a copy, as does the violin.
  16. I found a picture that shows the Curlybear really well. This is a guitar that was built by a Friend (Ron Steiger) From Ca. If I remember right, he built this one for Mario.
  17. quote: Originally posted by: Brad_Dorsey Can anyone provide a translation of "Prope Oenipontum?" I believe it is "made near Oenipontus" (Latin for Innsbruck)
  18. I was out of town for a couple days. I had meant to follow up on my post before I left. This is a picture of one from Cremona that the edges were scraped back to bare after the varnish was completed and then sealed and french polished. I have gone back and forth on the use of this technique. Although I have done it on my own, I wonder if it is a mistake to have the varnish so thin on an area that needs all the protection it can get.
  19. I know of some Italian makers That use Spirit varnish and obtain the yellow edges by scraping the varnish off the edge after the varnish is near done. Then they go back and french polish with the varnish. in doing so it recoats the edges.
  20. quote: Originally posted by: randy1 Now maybe I am showing my newness here but were these not handmade one by one and would there not be slight differences in the F holes ? Were these not made over a several decade period ? So would there not be some differences but simularities expected ? Differences in outline, f-hole shapes, Yes there will be differences. There will not be much of a difference in quality of craftsmanship. The more you stare at that split photo the more you see. Look at the angle of the top corners in the original Ebay photo left to right. Look at the shape of the edges and the depth of the scoop between the 2 different violins. The one listed on ebay was made quickly. Time wasn't taken to file the edges to perfection or to scrape the scoop to be even. The arching doesn't blend. (This takes time with a scraper to achieve) The f-holes aren't cleanly cut. Look at how celan the F-hole edges are on the right half of the split photo. Changing shapes will happen. But a maker either has the patience to finish these details or he/she is happy with good enough to earn a days wage.
  21. In the Ebay photo they seem to be positioned the same at the bottom but the left one appears longer. But it matches the taller left C, so all is well.
  22. Other than both having F-holes and a fingerboard..They look nothing alike. The one Jeffery posted a picture of is a very nice, quality violin. The one on ebay is far inferior in terms of workmanship.
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