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About agarwaen

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  1. I didn't realize I had an attitude to be honest, I was expressing puzzlement more or less by the situation. It seems extremely weird to me for a technician/luthier to refuse simple (I made it clear that I didn't want any bridge tuning or other adjustments to the violin) quick work because of the instrument, and it hasn't happened to me before. English isn't my first language BTW (although you've probably already guessed that). Also I don't think many professionals would share your point of view, obviously when G.A.S. hits me, and it probably will at some point in time (although it would be V.A
  2. We can still get a beer if there's time, don't worry about the bridge. Actually I was measuring the g string, on the e string side it was lower I think, I don't have the violin with me right now. Should there be such a difference? I didn't hear any buzzing though, when performing simple slow bows that is...
  3. 10 days? That is next Friday? Perhaps I can make it, how can I send you my email without posting it here in public?
  4. I'm measuring 5.7mm and 3.8mm, and it seems huge to me, I mean I'm used to just have to push the string at most around 4mm with my left hand. String height at the nut is a little lower than 0.4mm. As others have said, I just need a "string holder" not a bridge, so I'll try lowering it myself by eating 1mm off top and redoing the grooves.
  5. The action is too high. I don't want to be a "good" player in the classical sense, no interest in that, I'm only interested in tone accuracy and speed, speed with clear and correct pitch for now. Again guys, I don't care about tone, the pegs work correctly (that is I tuned the violin, and after a couple of days passed, now it stays in pitch) the nut doesn't pinch the strings, and the string action near the nut is fine. Essentially all I want is a little lower action (speed means doing the smallest movements possible) at the bridge end of the neck but without introducing buzzes (the neck curv
  6. That's exactly why I stated what I wanted, and that's a "correct" bridge, and not a violin that sounds good. The soundpost doesn't have to be moved or even fitted correctly, it's fine the way it is, even if it's not. It doesn't really matter if the violin has such a problem (although it *does* matter if it has a fingerboard problem, which I don't know if it does, or a neck problem which I know it hasn't). P.S. BTW I own 7 guitars, the cheapest is a chinese LP copy, few hundred bucks, and the priciest is a custom '68 LP, around 6,000 bucks. Same person works on both of them when I need h
  7. Yes, perfect for playability, and not for tone, as I said before. The radius of where the strings are sitting, their spacing and height are the only things that determine where/how you touch those strings. Again, I don't care how they sound at this stage, I'm only interested in technique, Besides as I understand it starting from a geometrically correct bridge for my instrument, the rest of the bridge tuning comes from shaping the width of the bridge and carefully carving small quantities of wood from the kidneys etc. That can be done later. I 'm not telling them how to do their job, no need fo
  8. Thanks, you covered all of my questions
  9. Hi, First of all I must say that I'm new to the violin, although I'm a seasoned guitar player with several instruments and some light repairwork under my belt. Recently I decided to take up the violin. I bought a Chinese instrument from Yitamusic, a T20, to start with. For those that don't know them, I've researched extensively and it seems they are the only Chinese brand that at least makes "anatomically" correct instruments. Since in the early stages of learning to play the violin I will be more concerned with playability than sound, my target was to have a "correctly" made instrument