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barnesviolins

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Everything posted by barnesviolins

  1. The violin is finished!!!!! Here are some quick pictures and video. IMG_8011.MOV IMG_8013.MOV
  2. I offered and am happy to do it. And I will do what the group decides to do. Sorry. Just saw this now. I'm willing to provide the fittings too.
  3. FREE part for Shop Fox Model W1670 Radial Drillpress. This is a Geared Table Support Bracket Version 1. Part # PX1669097. This is for the Radial Drillpress made pre-2018. Grizzly sent me this replacement part which fits a 60mm column. Mine was the later version 2 that has a 70mm column. Instead of having this part sent back, they said the shipping cost was more than the cost of the part and they didn’t want it back. So I don’t want to throw away a perfectly good part. I hope you find this post on a search for this replacement part. It is FREE. All you have to pay is actual shipping. I will hold on to it for awhile and hopefully I don’t lose track of it. Thanks!
  4. Have you tried burnishing the joint afterwards? I have had success burnishing back a subtle irregularity.
  5. Use just the tiniest drop of liquid soap. Then it will dry and stick the tubing to the feet. Yes, it will stay. I have done it this way for years and not had any problems. Good luck!
  6. SOLD 7 Cast aluminum deep throat clamps. 6 labeled Condit. 1 labeled W.H.Lee Chicago, Ill. 225 mm throat with 48mm opening. Swivel clamp pads. $150 plus shipping.
  7. The hair usually moved the balance point 4-5 mm towards the tip. Dorian
  8. The reference I have shows: Silver wire 73mm wrap ≈ 5.1 grams Tinsel 75mm wrap ≈ 1.9 grams If you're adjusting the weight of a bow, don't forget to take into consideration the balance. Hope that helps! Dorian
  9. I used to do less scoop also. I had a player remark that it made it more difficult to do left hand pizzicato. Also, he commented on not feeling enough resistance when pressing down the strings. Dorian
  10. Very creative! Well done! I think the real test would be in joining plates with it. You could try gluing quartered spruce and maple samples around 3-5mm thick and then try to break them apart and see how confident you feel the joint it. Good luck with your project! Dorian
  11. That's what leaving the pencil line can do......
  12. Thanks John. I was just thinking about that. I will rethink the number of cleats and spacing.
  13. I am looking for advice on fitting the bass bar over crack cleats. The crack is nearly the length of the bass bar. I'm thinking of around 4 cleats for the crack. I intend to do the type of cleat that Triangle Strings demonstrates in their write up for cleating cracks. So with that cleat design in mind: What is the best way to fit the bar to the cleats? Chalk the top of the cleat and fit until the bar touches the top again? Any pitfalls to look out for? Feedback from your experience would be appreciated. Thanks! Dorian
  14. Thanks Mike. The lamps are only on when the door is closed.
  15. We have a closet type light box in our varnish room. I swapped out the bulbs for germicide bulbs. We hang the instruments/bows in it for a couple of minutes. The door is well sealed so there is no way of directly looking at the lights. There is an exhaust fan in the varnish room so when we open the door we walk away for a few minutes to let the ozone vent. I feel like that is the best we can do to work on an instrument or bow right away.
  16. Yes, how do we contact Dennis? I am interested in these as well. Thanks! Dorian
  17. How will you handle the broken button in this case? Dorian
  18. I have bought Addis gouges off of Ebay and found them to work very well; when reground and shaped the way I want them. I use the flattest gouges - #3. Maybe 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4 inch for general carving then an 1/8" #3 and #8 for the last turn and the comma. I had some Japanese gouges custom made, and they are very nice. but I still prefer my Addis gouges. They just work. Taylor are nice too. Old Sheffield in general seems to be good steel. You have to search and watch for them to get what you want, but you should be able to buy them for $35 (ish) each. Good luck! Dorian
  19. Hi Jezzupe I have a digital meter in the light box that tracks the temperature and moisture readings. My EMC is between 7-8%. This is checked with a moisture meter. I can only tell you the RH that the instrument is in at finished point because my moisture meter is the cheaper kind with the two points and I don't want to stick the fiddle with it. (Is this what you meant by "I assume you are taking moisture content readings of your instrument prior to putting it in the lightbox"?) Thanks for your reply. Davide. I appreciate your feedback of dealing with it like a sap pocket. That's a good idea.
  20. Hi Greg Thanks for your reply! The crack does NOT run to the edge. I also could not find it on the inside even after vigorously massaging glue into the crack. We are pretty humid here in Houston, so getting too dry is a rare event. I don't keep track of the RH as part of my record keeping. I do have a sensor in the light box that keeps track of what is going on in there. If anything, I think it stays a little more humid in there than out in the workshop. I like your ideas. That is the kind of thing I am wondering about. However, I have been using the same ground system, method of application and light box for at least 5 years and have also varnished 20 or so chinese violins and not had a problem with them. I've been torn between it being the lightbox and my rough gouging of the plates. However, I have been doing that the same way forever and only recently had a problem. And maybe these two instruments have cracks for 2 different reasons......In other words, I can't see anything new that I'm doing to cause this to happen. The wood on this instrument is rather old and one of a kind and wood I have never used before.......that is a variable... Thanks again! Dorian
  21. Thanks for the feedback David. I appreciate you taking the time. Michael, I have a 4 inch inline cooling fan that draws the air out, runs it in 4 inch pipe around the room, in front of a portable air conditioner unit and back into the box. So I keep air moving and keep the inside temperature down.
  22. The other thing I wonder about is this. I put the instruments in the box and then run it for 24 hours a day, pretty much from the time I start grounding them to about a week or so after the last coat of varnish, when I am ready to set them up. Is it detrimental to run it constantly without giving the wood a chance to rest from the UV? Is it better to cycle the light giving it time with no UV?
  23. So Don, What would you do with the fiddle? Repair it and sell it? Make a new top for it? Trash it?
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