barnesviolins

I believe this cannot be overlooked. Given the same projection and saddle height, a neck set with a lower overstand will have a greater break angle over the bridge and thus a greater downward tension on the top. Conversely, a higher overstand will create a lower break angle and less tension. Wouldn't this affect the string response you are talking about? Dorian

Yes, the shipping is ridiculous! I bought 2 pieces. Tried it out and sent it right back. Felt dull and didn't cut well. Too stiff to bend easily. So I wasted the $9.99 shipping plus paid to ship it back. NT dresser material is very good. The best stuff I found is Atoma. VERY good material. Very expensive. Amazon has it mounted on aluminum plates to be used as flatening/sharpenin plates. https://www.amazon.com/Atoma-Diamond-Sharpener-Coarse-Grade-＃140/dp/B00BN32EXY/ref=pd_sbs_79_t_0/131-3128319-3385214?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BN32EXY&pd_rd_r=e481fa0d-570e-46c9-b2de-3d5f1b44bd2f&pd_rd_w=0Hmy7&pd_rd_wg=RmZF9&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=YFG0DM7FEKWR3CY78PNZ&psc=1&refRID=YFG0DM7FEKWR3CY78PNZ I have some of those. But you can also buy the film which is PSA backed and it is very flexible. I put it on a piece of 1" PVC pipe to use for truing up the curves into the corners of my plates. So it would work well in the application that David Sora uses his Sandvik for. The 140 grit is very good for this application. I order it from a tool dealer in Japan. If your interested in his contact. PM me and I will give you his email. Dorian

Nick I use processed horsetail over the entire surface as well as a brush made from the end of a bow hair hank. The Equisetum is a natural product that is historically accurate. Not only does it polish the surface of the wood, it burnishes which gives a nice visual effect but serves the purpose of softening the sharp edges where varnish easily chips off. I find that the "Tail of the Horse" brush further burnishes the surface and increases the polished effect I am looking for as well as cleaning the nooks and crannies and opening the pores of the wood prior to varnishing. I agree with you that it is a nice look. Subtle. But it adds to the whole overall appearance. Good luck! Dorian

This was done by the VSA. You should be able to order from the website or call them. Dorian

If I watch my colleague make an instrument, and then later I write a certificate for that instrument, I can say "this was made by....." But otherwise i have to say "that in my opinion this might/may be the work of...." because I wasn't there watching him/her making it. This is legal/legitimate language for identification. I think the value of writing a certificate for "lesser" expensive instruments is in making them more saleable. People like "official" documentation. I think this adds value to the sale but shouldn't add more to the price than what a certificate should cost for the time and material invested in photos, nice paper and envelope and the time to write it up, lay it out and print it.

If there is no frog on the bow and it is a broken screw stuck in the stick, have you tried soaking the butt of the bow in vinegar to free the screw? Dorian

I'll go $175

I make my necks more Parabolic (U) shaped. But I consider neck shape to be a personal thing for the player. You should have what is comfortable for you to play. My only dissent comes from players wanting a very thin neck that would require a neckgraft to set back to normal in the future. Dorian

I would think there is a high risk with the Insta-cure coming apart. I would be less worried with the G2 coming apart. But I have never done a test with G2. Heat is a common way to release Cyanoacrylate. Dorian

It was Ole Stefan Dahl (sp) who ran the shop before Tom. Is that who you are thinking of? Dorian

I've seen this and had to repair this as well. The clamping surface is too small and has too much force focused on such a small area. And the tall chinrest has too much leverage on the clamp. We won't sell these anymore since they can damage the instrument. Dorian

I fit one to a customer's Sartory bow a few years back. He really liked the idea of it. I think he tried it for awhile then switched it to a backup bow. Sometimes I think a particular tool sounds like a good idea. Then I get it, try it, and realize it doesn't work as well as I hoped. Sometimes, what seems like a good idea, doesn't work as well in practical everyday use. A bowmaker told me it wasn't a new idea. Other bow makers in the past had tried it and abandoned...... Dorian

Not sure what has changed. Peter didn't mention what was wrong with the original nut and why he made a new one.

Isn't that like saying, as soon as the bridge stops the string, nothing past that influences the sound?

Just like the bridge, the string depth being too deep can affect the responsiveness of the string. String spacing can subtly affect the tension/balance between the strings. As well, string grooves that aren't straight can affect the tension on the individual string. A sharply pointed front and a steeply slanted surface on the profile instead of a nicely rounding surface can create a pinched point on the string which would affect the tone of the string. All of this would only be noticed on a well setup, well adjusted instrument. Just a few things that come to mind for sound. Not to mention the physical wear of the string. Dorian