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TSENGLO

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  1. Yes, tell us how do you get away from the wood dusts. I could then have some support to move my gears in the cool room when my boy in the college next year. I think it will be a dream workshop for me, air-conditioning and good lighting.
  2. I might be over worry before I even give a try. I just could not afford to ruin an expensive sotck. A practice wood could be the key to find the answer. thanks.
  3. Daryl, thank you very much. Could you kindly post a picture to show the setup? I will like to see if the fence same as mine with the picture. I do have 3/16 and 4tpi blade, will that work on the job?
  4. Quote: I use a 14" bandsaw. What are you having problems with? My problems are: a. Do you use guide? b. What size of blade I should use? and anything I should pay special attention.
  5. I bought some pieces of maple and spruce which was not sawn into book match for seasoning reason. Now I am ready to use them for my violin, found out it is very hard to cut it correctly. Need help on this issue. I have 14" Delata bandsaw, and I do not know if it is the tool I could use or I should looking for help from a professional i.e. local fine funiture maker or luthier? Any suggestion will be much appreciated.
  6. Yes, it is quite expensive for these thumb planes. I have IBex 8,10,12,18 mm planes. It all very useful depends on the width and conditions of the surfaces. What I will suggest you should call the supplier see if they could replace the regular blade for toothed blades(this the blade I really need) to save some money. You do not need the regular blades at all in my situations.
  7. You could email them and ask the quetions....
  8. I was amazed that LN blading sharping though it is a stright and simple one to sharp. However, it is very hard to sharp the hald circle gouge with consistency angel, this is my biggest problem. I would rather back to hand more often if there is $600-900 expense for this purpose. There are jungle of tools to buy, no ending shopping really bother me now.
  9. Amori, I could not figure out how the oar sharper from woodcraft will work even with the picture. Can you tell how? and what is Tormek. I will call Woodcraft see if they could tell me how. Oded, what bothered me is the outside of gouge which is half circle. Dowel thing only for inside gouges??
  10. David tell that all, scroll saw will have difficulty on thick block such as neck. Bandsaw could do a lot of things and make life much easier. By the way, could anyone here tell me if I could use 14" bandsaw to cut my seasoned back to be a matched 2 pieces? What is the tips? or I have to send the maple back to a local lumber?
  11. I have never been woodworking before I took up the violin making few months ago. Finally I learn how to sharp my LN blades from a woodworking show last month, it works so well after I learn the tricks. I am still in mist of how to sharp my gouges and scrapers though I do have sharping tools for both of them. Please kindly provide me all the tips. Thanks in advance.
  12. As I know, the scroll saw is not necessary for the violin making. However, you could not cut the plates right on the line anyway, you will have to use other hand tools to finish it. A 14" bandsaw is a much useful tool. I will see what other to say about this scroll saw.
  13. Could you detailing something about Vuillaume and Lupot and what is your survey for?
  14. Ran down to workshop to check it out, the body was made of aluminum, ball is made of copper. You will have to make perfect level plate or you will have to fight for the plate clamping when you do the arching, it is good to know I have to make perfect level for the next plate. David, I do not think $285 is cheap for the material and quality of the clamps on the woodboard.
  15. It is Euro 180 plus freigth Euro 40, total cost me about $285(if I convert it correctly)
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