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Korngold's Achievements


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  1. This discussion actually emerged on a guitar forum, and is probably a dumb question, but is there a difference between tone quality of highly flamed, somewhat flamed, and unflamed maple? Say the boards are of the same density, will they sound the same? Is the only difference aesthetic? Thanks!
  2. Jane, There are too many factors that go into what a violin is going to sound like to simply look at one and assume it will sound good. Some fantastic looking violins sound horrible (and vice-versa), which can be caused by any number of things, both seen and unseen: Wood is too thick Wood is too thin Shape is not mathematically correct Curvature of top/back is incorrect Poor bridge/soundpost placement (easily remedied) Varnish too thick/thin These are but a few. I'll be honest, though. I have a Gliga violin (a Romanian shop instrument) and I love it. It cost me about $750 on e-bay. Personally, I have seen bench-made Romanian luthiers' instruments go for $2500 (what price was last I checked), which this could be worth. However,it may just be a shop fiddle. It's a pretty shop fiddle if so, but how can you know? I would suggest that if you do purchase on-line (especially from e-bay) make sure the seller has a LOT of good feedback. Also, make sure they have a reasonable return policy. After all, you are buying a violin that you may keep for the rest of your life without ever playing it yourself. That said, personally I wouldn't spend more than $1000 or so on any mislabeled violin or shop instrument from an e-bay seller. The other thing you may need to consider is that you'll still likely need to take almost any e-bay instrument to get an adjustment (at the least), but more likely a whole setup--new bridge, strings, and soundpost adjustment. I also wouldn't bother asking that seller. It is private auction, and he/she had the foresight to avoid repercussions by writing "labeled as" in the auction title. (as an aside, why did America as a whole stop spelling traveled and labeled with two "l"s? I always remember spelling them "labelled" and "travelled". . . )
  3. Quote: it's nice to know that people still dream.
  4. Jane, There are hundreds just like him. Just search the "auction" forum for e-bay scams and you'll see the "warning signs" for what to avoid. If you're not looking for an authentic instrument, e-bay is not a bad place. But, many sellers are just out to make a buck. By reviewing seller's feedback, I've seen instruments they had listed as "labeled as xxxxx" that they bought a month before unlabeled or labeled as something else. Just be cautious when spending your $$ on auctions. Don't buy from sellers who have little to no feedback, don't buy from private auctions if you can avoid it, and don't spend more than you can afford to lose. Also, sellers avoid fraud repercussions by putting "Labeled by" rather than "made by" or "certified" on their auctions. Also, just because it's not a well-known maker (or even a dead one, for that matter) doesn't mean that it's not a fake. People pull obscure labels out of books like Jalovec and put them in unnamed fiddles just to make a few more $$ on the sale. Gregg Alf, one of the makers who frequents this site and is very much alive, has even seen violins with his name on them for sale on e-bay, but they weren't made by him! If you're looking for something old & original, chances are SOMEONE appraised it before, and it should come with a certificate. Obviously, these will cost you a little more $$ on e-bay, but it's worth it if you're trying to buy an authentic instrument. If it does have a certificate, make sure it's legit, too. Someone had a violin & a certificate for sale a while back which pulled in way too much $$, and the violin was not the one that was appraised on the certificate! To my eye, that violin looks like a brand new Romanian instrument, it is definitely not 100 years old, and the label also looks brand new. Good luck hunting, and be cautious!
  5. I'm not sure if the link will work or not, but search Christies for "tennant" and you'll see her. Estimated 800k to 1.2mil! Lady Tennant Auction Even if I sold everything I own, I'd still come up about $600k short.
  6. Regent, Maybe you should learn with whom you're chatting before completely disregarding their opinions. http://www.darntonviolins.com/maker.html http://home.mindspring.com/~jsholmes/id4.html
  7. If you do ever get a negative, don't respond to it (as the system allows you to respond to your comments), or respond nicely. Then, it will be obvious who was truly caused the transaction to go south. I will generally buy from sellers with 98% or better, though 2 out of every 100 can be a pretty bad rating, it is difficult to please all the people all the time. Plus, it may just be that they left a - for someone else who then decided to leave a "retaliatory" negative in return. This happened to me many moons ago, and I'm still not happy about it. That is why the feedback system stinks. I paid the guy in about 2 seconds flat, he shipped garbage, I left appropriate (negative) feedback after he was unwilling to resolve the situation, and he went ahead and did the same.
  8. If there is a need for this, I can set it up. I had classifieds up at www.violintrader.com, but I'm in the process of switching servers. I could easily add auctions. What do you think? The service would be free, continuous, and focused toward stringed instruments.
  9. You could try selling at Tarisio, Christie's, Skinner's, or one of the other big auction houses. You'd have to wait for an instrument auction, and there's no guarantee you'd get what you want for it. You may also be able to consign it at a local shop. As for e-bay, if you do decide to sell it there and you currently have low feedback, do yourself a favor and sell about 20 - 30 small items. CDs, beanie babies, etc. are great for this purpose--just sell some decent quality stuff that's lying around the house. You may lose money on them, but if you ship quickly and accurately describe them, you'll get GOOD feedback. Many people are apprehensive about buying expensive items from sellers with little or no feedback, so one of the best things you can do to promote bidding on a more expensive item is build up your feedback rating before you list it. Also, take clear and accurate pictures, and organize your description in a clear and concise manner. Good luck!
  10. I thought you only needed to charge tax if your business has a "physical presence" in a state. That's why most sellers charge tax in the state where their business physically resides. Is this not the case?
  11. Quote: If the object of the excercise is to attract as much attention as possible, my own experience is that auctions starting at $1 with no reserve cause most excitement. That is the format I would go for if I came to sell on ebay. If you're 100% ready to get rid of an item, this is definitely the way to go about it. However, as Joseph stated, you may lose your shirt if you don't get any/enough bidding activity. The "safe" way is to just set your starting bid at a reasonable amount. If you get no bids, you do lose your listing fee (unless you relist and sell the item), but that is minimal compared to what you may lose if your starting bid is extremely low and there is little or no interest in the item.
  12. Upon listing the auction, you are charged a listing fee. The listing fee for an auction with a starting bid of $299 and an auction that starts at $1 with a reserve of $299 is about the same, because e-bay charges a fee for the reserve (based on the price). As a seller, you are not saving yourself a bundle of money by setting reserves--at least not on e-bay. Unless you publicly disclose your reserve price, I believe that you are just discouraging potential buyers. Also, some sellers do this to build up a "buyer pool" for the item that they can later e-mail to sell the item off e-bay. This is against e-bay policy. Or, a more "ebay legal" scenario is that your reserve price wasn't met, but it was only a few dollars shy. So, you send the high bidder a "second chance offer." If he/she accepts, you are then charged a final valuation fee on the second chance offer (which is generally less than your reserve). In this case, you have lost money, as the buyer may have just paid the higher starting bid price in the first place had you set no reserve. Or, the buyer may have found another auction by the time you send out your offer, which is a more likely scenario. Either way, you lose out as the seller. Regarding the final valuation fees, it is true that you are not charged a final valuation fee if your reserve is not met. But, by the same token you are not charged a final valuation fee if no one bids and there is no reserve. However, if you get one bid and you have set no reserve, you actually sold your item (congratulations), which was the point of listing it in the first place.
  13. Quote: Can those who like reserve auctions explain why? Why not just use reserve price as the starting price? Maybe I am missing something here. Jimbow I agree. I avoid reserve auctions like the plague. It seems like the vast majority of sellers who put reserves on are people who really don't have a desire to sell the item (as the reserve is generally way too high), or think that their item is worth more than it really is. I think the "logic" behind it is that if you start the bidding at $1.00 with a reserve, you'll get more interested parties. However, the people who are bidding 1, 5, and 50 bucks on a $500 item are not the ones who will be bidding in the end (if your reserve ever gets met). And, you are not giving the serious bidders the true picture of what they will need to bid to win the item. So, many of them just forget about the auction and move on. Some will come back, but those who don't are lost customers. Whereas, if you start the bidding with the lowest amount you'd actually accept, you've already eliminated the $5 and $10 bidders, and the serious bidders know the minimum you will accept and if they are willing to pay it, they will put it on a watch list, bid immediately, or snipe it. Personally, if I'm a potential bidder, and the seller put a $500 reserve on a $200 item (which is often the case), it would be nice to know that so I don't waste my time. Plus, many sellers get snippy when you ask for their reserve price, it's just not even worth the trouble. For this reason, I generally don't near reserve items unless the reserve has already been met. The only instance where I may bid on an item with a reserve is if it has a reasonable buy-it-now price. Some sellers will put a reserve on a buy-it-now auction so they can start at $1.00 without the BIN price going away. If you have a regular (non-reserve) auction that starts at $1.00 with a BIN price, the BIN price disappears at the first bid.
  14. That scroll looks like it was carved by a three year old.
  15. Janet, I have purchased two Gliga violins from violinslover.com (actually through e-bay) and I have been very happy with both instruments. Personally, though, for over $1500 I would look at some older, lesser-known maker's instruments. If you are still undeterred, give the Gliga Gama a look. The Gama instrument line is their best line in terms of "bang for your buck", IMO. You get high quality beautiful wood, professional finishing, a good setup (usually), and a great sound overall. The only differences between the Gama and the Maestro line are slightly better grade of wood and varnish. Many Gama instruments actually sound (and look) better than a lot of the Maestro instruments. And, don't let the Maesto certificate fool you--from my understanding, Maestro instruments are not made solely by the hand of Vasile or Christian. They are simply a slightly better grade of instrument from Gliga's workshop. In my opinion, it doesn't warrant the exorbitant price hike between the two models. Also, make sure you buy off e-bay. The prices on e-bay are significantly lower than the prices on the website, yet the instruments are exactly the same. Also, if you do get one, you may want to change the strings. Once put on some Pirastro Eudoxas, the violin sounded excellent and responsive, but not too loud. I may try some Pirazzi's on it at a later date. Good luck viola hunting!
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