Jump to content
Maestronet Forums


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Hartford

florea's Achievements

Junior Member

Junior Member (2/5)

  1. I have heard this term used but don't know what it means - an undercut of the F holes?
  2. I like medium Dominants with the silver D and the Pirastro Gold Label E. Try Shar Music or Southwest Strings.
  3. florea


    Best wishes to Craig - I have enjoyed his common sense postings over the years.
  4. I don't know where you are looking but wsh519 on ebay was selling these - Andrew from Hong Kong. If you look up the feedbacks there have been none since August. He seems to sell in spurts.
  5. Amazon has the Harry Ellis Dickson book Gentlemen.... used. I ordered a copy as it sounds intriguing. Didn't he do some stints conducting the Boston Pops?
  6. I have a persistant problem of ticking the G string when playing on the D especially in the third position. The scoop of my fingerboard is less than 1mm in the middle. The bridge radius is close to the 42mm standard with string heights at the end of the fingerboard of 5.5mm for the G and 3.5 for the E. Sighting from the side with the G and A lined up and the D depressed at the third position 4th finger shows the D crossing over about 1/2 the way between the bridge and the end of the FB. This doesn't leave a lot of available sounding point away from the bridge. I like to move toward the FB for soft passages and the tonal change I get. My teacher's violin has a bridge with a tighter radius and is better in this regard. Since I am a beginner I don't know if I should develop the better technique to cope with this or try to do something about it - ie a new bridge/ lowering the G etc. I know the higher positions force a compression of the sounding point closer to the bridge but third position seems a bit much.
  7. I thought I remembered that the afterlength was tuned to an octave and a 5th e.g. to a D on the G string?
  8. I seem to remember a reference in a thread to the top plate grain being tight in the middle and getting wider at the flanks as being preferable. Does such a grain configuration have an effect on sound?
  9. The string length is measured from where the string leaves the nut to the top edge or center of the bridge?
  10. I bought a violin from them last fall. It actually looked better than the pictures. Sounded quite good but the nut was too low, there was no scoop in the finger board, and the pegs didn't fit very well. You might have to do some work on it to get it playable. They have a one week trial period.
  11. What is the purpose of the 0.5 - 1mm scoop in the middle of the fingerboard?
  12. A note of caution against some of the "home" solutions to humidification - I once put a entire sponge soaked with water in the case. The humidity skyrocketed and my older brazilwood bow warped - permanently. I now use the Planet Waves "egg" and it works great - just fill it with distilled water with the supplied syringe and you are good to go.
  13. florea


    We have no luthier nearby but I will abide by his advice when I get it over there. The nut is also too low and the G string was buzzing. I had to file under the G string near the nut to take care of that. That is when the dark brown color emerged. Used a little shoe polish to hide where I had filed. I used a straightedge to determine that there was no scoop - haven't noticed a playability issue yet but then I am still a beginner.
  14. florea


    I have a violin which sounds quite good - but the fingerboard is of a low quality ebony and is not scooped. Should I push to have the luthier replace it with a good quality board or just leave well enough alone and just scoop and restain it? I remember some posts that the finger board weight etc. can affect sound.
  • Create New...