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Everything posted by Skreechee

  1. well thank you at least you are an honest person. the rest of the comments are unrelaited to the topic question and that is why I don't bother posting much as people should keep to the topic and not wander off on their own little dream boats and opinions, beliefs all not factual just opinion with no evidence for it. I am not into old women and AA and conspiracy theories or secret ways of doing things and making varnish recipes so unbelieveably complex and silly that it beggars belief. Some people who brag do it to justify themselves but the proof is in the pudding and its bloody basics to learn first as I have but sick of idealists and snobs and wizards and lunatic raving arguments. Mad world eh?
  2. I would not buy from this person. I have been stung by buyers this way. Now sellers are doing it too. Paypal has destroyed consumer and seller honesty and the mud dwellers are onto it big time now. I know as it has happened to me. I would not buy an instrument off the internet ever. and I would not sell one again either. It has crashed almost. There are oasises but very few in a huge desert. Then there are the low life who talk the talk and live in the world of their own a world where there is no talent or scruples or honesty, just lies and fancy photos of crap instruments they have bought off ebay sellers. The Chinese knock out better violins now and reputation means nothing to them. Money is what is important and people haven't got any.
  3. There will be a time that you think you are winn9ing getting it off. Then you go at it a bit too harsh and then realise it is nailed down at the top to the top block. OMG. There is no secret formula. If you don't use the right way and know how to do it then glue the cracks outside and leave it to someone who has a stronger stomach and who can repair any damage caused. Even the best repairers crack tops. Taking a belly off well does not cause a soundpost or bass bar crack. Utter codswallop again.
  4. Because they glue better due to their shape and do not 'lift' off. Also, they are much stronger as they are perpendicular to the wood of the violin itself. They last hundreds of years if well done. Square are better on bigger instro's like a cello or bass.
  5. The re[airs to the blocks are very amateur and I should know as I was an amateur. It seems to have ruined a very nice violin. Also I wish you lot would refrain from calling a wonderful piece of craftwork a fiddle. If you leave open bits within your blocks, then it will not vibrate the same and cause slight distortion ofthe belly more than the back. True as I know through opening up so many crappily made violins from 1900's Germany and France and UK. Okees. Hope you are all well guys. Just finished my 5th violin with having very ill health so I don't want any trouble OK
  6. I have already sold this bow (for a pittance I may add a good while ago) but to me, the darkness of the wood, the fact that the frog is covered with abalone top and back, (what a nightmare that was to get out and put back on). I think it is silver mounted. Plain frog, really top ebony. I just don't know as there are hardly any Dodd bow pictures. The head seems not wonderful though. Anyone know? Its stamp looks fake to me but I have become very sckeptical in my old age! lol!
  7. Yes, you always look through the end pin hole. But sometimes, as with big cellos you just look through the F hole. Never tried through the bass F hole. Never think I would.
  8. Oh sorry I forgot. Yes I use a dental mirror and mini led light on a bendy stalk to check it is touching everywhere.
  9. Yes, and I am not perfect in anyway. I just practice. Oh I forgot to say I angle the grain of the post to about 35 degrees out from the belly's grain. Is this the right way for anyone else?
  10. I have decided to put this in a more relevant area of Maestronet. Lyndon wants to know how I get my post to stand up straight. Well, you have to remember to do it on a full moon and use the right tool for the job. I know he isn't being serious but I am. It took me a long time to learn actually and sent me round the bend at first. I got a soundpost fitter, then I made a post from old, hardened pine. I made it thinner depending on the size of the F hole. Then I used my measuring caliper to get the right length. Then I cut it approximately. Then I put it to the back of the instrument, measured and scored with a pencil, the correct angle. Did the same to the top and then cut it with a very sharp blade. To get it in I angle it about 70 degrees, look through the end hole of the instrument and slowly pull it up to the correct straightness. Michael Darnton said to pierce the post until it looks like it is going to split, so it does not fall off inside. Then I would move it if needs be with the other end of my tool. I got this info from here so sorry if Ive gone over the topic again and bored everyone to death but I am quite boring really. My posts I like are quite tight but not overly so or they can cause wood splitting and made the instrument sound like a dog. I find the smaller violins terrible to fit. The easiest, for me, is the cello. Oh, I also use masking tape, which I make as unsticky as possible on the F hole incase of the tool rubbing it thus causing damage.
  11. I make and shape the bass bar. I get it to a srung shape before clamping, glueing it. Then I shape it more.
  12. No it is not. I made the back out of Canadian Maple. I put the linings all round because this violin is only a student violin. Usually I let in the linings to the blocks. But to be honest, linings come out some of the time anyway so thats how I do them. The top is also Canadian spruce. As I said, it became brittle when I put in the purfling. I don't make my own purfling. I carved the scroll using some of the tools you see. Nothing special but I know how to sharpen tools. I use a Dremel to smoooth out the chisel marks and keep measuring the top and bottom. Ooo I must not mention bottom, bum or suchsoever words.
  13. I am endevouring to put some relevent pictures up but don't seem to be having much success. I'll try again.
  14. Here's some pics of my work in progress and some tools. Not all of them, no thumb planes as the only one I have I have put in my pandora's box and can't find it. I am a very messy person! lol! Hopefully these are more tasteful. Notice the linings go the whole way around. That is because this one is a less expensive violin and in my mind, I would rather have them that way because they don't come loose unless you fit them very securely into the corner blocks.
  15. AS I say I can talk utter nonsense. Sorry about slight pictures of my bottom area Jeffrey but I am wearing knockers. What does Cockburn mean, I mean I think I know what it means but if anyone wants a nice tasteful picture of me working away with my thumb planes, then I will send them one. It may be too explosive and a wee bit dangerous as was said to those older members who have high blood pressure. No, I don't think I am gorgeous, just a bit sexy, btw Lydon... incase you think I am over egging the pudding. BTW I have very long and dextrous fingers.....
  16. I have been banned by the looks of things to be able to upload pictures, or I'm having a Blonde moment???
  17. He he, thanks boys!!! lol! Yes, I was much better at modelling, acting and actually playing the things. Love jaguars. That was an old clapped out one taken at 4 in the morning in Novemberafter a bottle or rose wine. I won't tell you which parts of me where very cold. It was taken with an on the top flash, thats why my face is so white. Here's another of me lately, not professional, just cos I like being a poser!. I will get my neice to take a picture of me fitting a bass bar to the top I have made. Wait till you see my clamps (ooer!) they will make you laugh! And another when I was helping out a friend who ran an online modelling agency. How bad and seventies are the wood panels!
  18. No I had false nails on Hun! lol! My real nails are very short. Thanks for the publicity though.
  19. I am using a softish spirit varnish at the moment for my Guaneri copy violin. I use my fingers to apply it. ? Is this any good? To me it is. Brushes tend to apply too much, cause streaks if you want a darker colour and don't produce a smooth finish.
  20. I don't know why this is all underlined writing???!!! Anyway, I was cleaning this old violin with a mixture made by an old Italian varnish maker so I don't know exactly what it was made from but it was oily but did not remove any varnish, just all the blackened rosin. I mixed it with a slight bit of pale rosin powder and metholated spirits. Then I hung it out in the hot sun to dry. Within an hour it had all crackled! I was most distressed but it looked a very good immitation of age crackling usually associated with picture varnish. The varnish on the violin was oil based. Another violin I had was a cheapo ld thing from 1800's and had a hard spirit based varnish Very brown and I tried Ruskin's antiqueing varnish to see if I could make that crackle around the edges and it did, using my very hot hair dryer. straight away. I haven't a clue about how to make varnish, Know a lot about it but would never make it myself, I would just buy it from a good varnish maker or firm. I don't like Hammerl's varnish at all, especially the coloured oil varnishes. They are the worst varnishes ever. The colours are so fake. I tried using a mixture of linseed oil, lemon oil andFrench polish, to get a slightly dull, sheeny, not shiny, smooth and worn varnish effect and that worked quite well. The problem with faking things is if you are working on a very expensive instrument or peice of furnature then I would work very carefully practicing before attempting any aging effects. I have a very old tin with clear spirit varnish. It is very thick and needs to be thinned but it gives a lovely effect over the coloured varnish, be it oil or spirit underneath and also will crackle very easily with age. It is a very very hard varnish. I think thats what is needed but oh! What a nightmare to get on as youve got to move yourself worse than French Polishing. Also I like Ruskins Darker wood stains. mix with anything but extend the drying time but you can acheive a lovely aged brown effect without it looking false. There is also a mixture you can buy in a spray can for picture coating, oil pictures I mean. I get it from China where this company make it. It is not polimer or anything, it is true varnish but you have to practice with that as well to get a mist over the violin or furniture and it gives the under colours a glow without looking shiny and grainy. My neighbour is a gun maker and he uses his own varnish which he will not tell me exactly what it is but the handles of his guns, well there are not brush marks, very smooth and aged looking and glowing, perfect natural colouring. He rubs them down with pumis cream for hours.
  21. I bought a Hoyer bow in a lot of old bows I got on ebay. It was stamped just Hoyer and it was dark red, crisp octagon, well carved out and handmade ebony frog with no eyes and silver mounted with a silver encased slide. It did not have a sheild mark and did not have a machine made screw end. I sold it for 120 pounds Oops!
  22. I can make bows and violins but I am in no way 'Professional'. I am mainly self taught and also taught by a retired luthier who was terrible at making violins but his passion was celli and his celli he has got left are remarkable works of skill and beauty. I am working for a luthier at the moment, rehairing terrible bows for a pittance. I have had a lot of physical illness through my life in the last ten years. That is why, instead of performing as a PROFESSIONAL musician, I decided to learn about how a stringed instrument is created. I was obsessed. I have put years and many hours every day to learn but I am an infant as I take so long to make a violin. I have recently made a top to fit an old back I had lying around. The wood was from Canada and its edges are slightly crumbly in places after I used the purfling grouve cutter on it. I will endeavour to show you a picture of it. At the top (luckily enough) it completely snapped off but because it won't show as the neck will be there then its fine. I am a very good bow rehairer, very good but it took me lots of practice and patience and learning from others here and asking questions to know how its done. I'm still not as good as this old bow rehairer in Penny Lane Liverpool who rehaired both my bows. You have never seen perfection unless you see them. Sadly they are gone now. Need to get to his standard, then I can call myself competent. (edited by the moderator. Screechee; you should know why. If you wish to contribute here, "wind your neck in" starting now, OK?)
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