bean_fidhleir

I 'love' the procrustean way they show the larger views.

Michael and Jeffrey -- I, too, admire your restraint.

Quote: It's relevant because you, and now 'regent' have seen fit to launch a personalized attack on someone for not disclosing as much information as you think should be disclosed and yet no criticism has been made about the quality of the product or value for money. Glenn, I really think you should re-consider your position here. I simply stated my personal preference for Jesse's style, and said that I would not appreciate someone self-interestedly failing to give out material information that might affect whether I bought the goods he's selling. What possible problem could you have with someone politely stating their personal views? And, just for curiosity, how many people, do you suppose, would not want to know the origin of an instrument?

Quote: I believe he is referring to the lack of personal information in your profile. I expect you're right. I'd like to see him try to explain why it's relevant, though.

Quote: We can all be economical with facts. Your profile for this forum is a case in point. What's THAT supposed to mean?

Quote: A consequence of the second point is that sellers are often reluctant to reveal the source of the instrument explicitly and that is perfectly understandable while prejudice remains. As someone who's reasonably impartial and uninvolved, let me add my pittance: I appreciate Jesse's style of description, because I would feel quite upset if I bought something based on someone like MisterMcDario having chosen not to reveal certain information because too many people would find it important! That's exactly the kind of information a seller has an ethical (and legal) obligation to reveal. Why should any seller have a right to substitute his self-interested judgement for mine, and trick me into buying something I would choose not to buy if I had all the material facts? Nicolo's basic thesis seems appropriate to me: sellers should describe their goods in a complete and straightforward way.

I thought chinrests were meant to keep the player from scrooching up their shoulder. I know my neck is far too long for me to put my chin directly on the fiddle without scrooching, and I end up with the world's worst neck-and-shoulder pain after a half-hour's playing. So I use a rest

'definitely not a "brand new" one.' I'm not in any way trying to stick up for the seller, but perhaps all he meant by 'brand new' was 'unused'?

Apropos ethics--perhaps our ethical standard should be 'be fair' rather than 'be clever'?

The real problem is that you don't even know whether he owns it. We've all seen scammers who post pics from someone else's past sale (in one recent case they did it immediately the other sale closed). You send the money, they disappear, you're sunk. If you want to buy it, tell him you need to do escrow for your own protection. If he's honest, he'll understand that.

What's interesting is that I remember reading that same story or one just like it a long time (a year or two?) ago. Anyone else remember it?

It's Tarisio's lot 2. Is that a joke? I always thought that "medio fino" was a quality category. Could someone explain? Thanks!

Quote: Yes, most plastic blocks UV, however most glass does not, so if there needs to be protection, use glass. "So I figured the only thing that could really hurt your eyes (bright light can never hurt your eyes) is ultraviolet light. I got behind a truck windshield, because the ultraviolet can't go through glass, so that would be safe, and so I could see the damn thing [the first atom bomb detonation]." (Richard Feynman, Surely you're joking, Mr Feynman, p 116-117) A different glass formulation?

Quote: The current owner is asking me to make an offer. I haven't found much information on this particular violin. What would be a reasonable offer? Are you considering buying it for the sound rather than the investment? If so, I'd think the price of a comparable-sounding factory instrument would be fair, unless the seller has evidence that the maker's work goes for more than that.

Quote: Next-to vs over the tailpiece results in a distinctly different tone. I usually prefer sound of the side-mounted ones, tonally. But players seem stuck on the over-the-tailpiece types. Do you know, or have a theory about, why it works out that way? I would have guessed it would be the other way because of the dampening effect of the side mount clamping onto surfaces meant to vibrate.

Quote: you and I need to go antique hunting one day

Quote: I concluded that had I gone in that direction the complaint would have been "Well how am I supposed to fasten that to my wall, with big, mighty bolts? Well I'm not doing that to MY wall!" I like what you described but it would be fairly heavy. The wood, the glass, it's all heavy. I agree, it would be heavy. I was thinking of those bolt things that you drill a 1/4 inch hole for and then, when you tighten them up, they sort of collapse and grip the wall from the inside. What are they called? I can never remember, but I know that they come in 50lb capacity at least. I can't imagine it weighing more than that, can you? And even if someone was feeling paranoid, two of them would certainly do the job! Quote: how could I make it for under $200.00? I don't know. Perhaps by using veneer plywood and standard dimensions as much as possible? Quote: Secondly, it's the bow. The case you're describing would likely be only built for the violin. Since bows are so much longer than violins growing the case to accomodate it makes it pretty tall. I'm also not sure taking the bow in and out would be easy or comfortable. And hanging the bow on the outside to me would look sloppy. Why couldn't the bow go on the diagonal? If you allow air around the fiddle, it looks as though there'd be plenty room (or at least when I hold up my bow and fiddle like that, it does )

Quote: Noxx, thanks for the comments. Allow me to address some of them if I may. 1-Price:I understand, though in a world of $5000-15000 instruments it isn't proportionately large. 2-Space:I could see that not everyone has space for this where they use their instrument. 3-Style:I know what you mean, and suppose an ornate version would be attractive to many, but here's my thinking. If you go ornate and brown you will not match the color of any violin, as the browns are always different. I thought that since the nice slabs of black one finds on pianos are also in classical circles that it would be a neutral color against which the violin could then 'pop out'. So that's where this style and color came from. Thanks again for your comments! Anybody else? Well, since you ask First off, I think your design is very lovely in its own right! And the mirror, humidifier, and swing-up top are inspired. But still I have to agree with Noxx. The price seems high because the case isn't really functional on the same level the violin is. It's like buying a very wonderful $1000 carrying case: it's a luxury when $200 will buy a more-than-capable Bobelock. And I, too, would rather have one that I could hang on the wall like a picture, because I have a little wall space free but absolutely no floor space. And I too would choose a very traditional looking one, especially if I owned an old violin. If I had the money, I'd choose a case made of golden oak or walnut, with moldings and serious brass fittings, and even beveled glass in the front and a ruby-red velvet lining around the inset mirror.

Thanks very much for responding, Jack! I wasn't even thinking of replacing the wood parts, only the plastic ones. Have you opened yours up? I've only had the courage to look at mine from the outside so far, and try to imagine what would need to be moved and how I might do it. I was thinking about using a piece of 1x12 white pine for the rest of the "body" since it already has that wide spruce(?) "backbone" that the bridge and "tailpiece" sit on.

Let me get this out of the way first : I'm only a player, not a maker. I have done a little gross woodwork such as bookcases, but never anything fiddly (no pun intended). Nor do I really know anything about electrical things more than being able to re-wire a lamp if I need to. Some years ago I bought a Yamaha Silent because I live in an apartment and need a quiet practice instrument. But I found that it bothers the piece of metal I have in my jaw (don't ask) and nothing I do to pad it helps. The molded-in chinrest and the fixed position of the shoulder rest are just the wrong combination for my particular twisted bones. So I'm wondering about removing the "body" of the Yamaha and fitting a new one out of wood that I could then use a regular chinrest and adjustable shoulder rest with. Does that sound feasible? I have very little money, so replacing it altogether with something like a Zeta silent violin isn't an option for me. Does rebuilding it in this way sound like a practical thing to do? Has anyone here ever done anything like it?

In their basic choices, I mean, such as one-piece vs multi-piece backs, shape of f-holes, and so forth? Part of the reason I'm asking is that we always hear about 1-pc vs 2-pc backs (like the thread here just now), but there was a Strad calendar a few years ago that showed at least two violins with *4*-pc backs. And I don't think they were done that way for any reason of looks, either, because the wood didn't seem attractive or particularly well-matched. I'm wondering why they would have done that, if not because they needed to make something to pay the rent and that's the wood they had on hand.

My dictionary says that "fiddle" is the older word, coming from "fithula" in the pre-medieval Frisian ancestor of English, whereas "violin" came straight into modern English from Italian "violino". Maybe it's another "cu" versus "boeuf" kind of thing?

I suppose if auction companies and consigners are satified to only sell to those who either can examine the instruments in person (local people, dealers, and the wealthy) or don't need to (experts) then it makes sense to be sparing with information. Why wouldn't it be in their interests to provide as much information as possible?

I know I'd like more information about things like that, too, even if it is mostly honest speculation (as long as it's labelled speculation). Something else I'd like to see is side-view photos. I'm sure highly expert people don't need them, but for an amateur like me, the more information the better.