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bean_fidhleir

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Everything posted by bean_fidhleir

  1. Awful scroll; fraud label battered as per the usual hope it will seem real; obvious antiquing
  2. If one must go in person to get necessary information, what's the point of having an online auction at all? I, too, think it's a bad move to stop providing full information on "speculative" and "restorable" instruments. I suppose if the motive is to reduce the population of bidders to only those with considerable expertise or no sense at all then it's probably a good move, but why would an auction house want to do that?
  3. Believe it or not, that's a good sign. Offset litho didn't exist as a printing method at that time, so everything was done letterpress...and letterpress is essentially a stamp. The letters are cast such that their faces are raised up off the surface, the ink is applied to the faces, the sheet of paper is slid underneath, and the screw of the press is wound down to pressurise and transfer the ink. Just like a rubber stamp, only metal. The alternate method at the time was copper-plate engraving, where the letters were gouged out of a plate, ink was swabbed over it and wiped off so that it only stayed in the gouged-out areas, and then the plate was mashed onto the paper so that the ink was pulled out of the gouges and left on the paper. Needless to say, that was a lot of work and expensive. Not many people would have chosen that method for their labels. Title page of an important book, okay. High-class illustrations, okay. Labels, no way. That being said, I don't care for what I can see of the paper itself, which looks like woodpulp rather than rag. Woodpulp paper didn't begin to be used until after the popularisation of the fourdrinier machine in the mid-1800s.
  4. To me the varnish looks funny. The bass-side crack looks as real as I suppose it could in those images. I can't even see the other one.
  5. Whatever else one can say, it's got a lovely scroll.
  6. An inexpensive Geigenfluss instrument from about 1910-1920? I'm fairly sure the label is a fraud, since it appears to be offset rather than letterpress. The inked in numbers look nice, though, although I've never seen a German do the little curliques on 7s, only on Fs.
  7. Am I the only one who thinks the play of light by the bass f-hole maybe indicates bathtub arching? I.e., low-value Tiroler
  8. No, of course I'm not the seller. And the reason why I said it looks discontinuous is because it does. Take a look at the bass-side photo of the head. See the discontinuity? Oh, and the link still works fine and the fiddle sold for $2800.
  9. quote: Originally posted by: Taylor's Fine Violins if I were to venture a guess the neck scroll is obviously a fake, because the diagonal flaming continues through the graft It looks discontinuous to me. I'd guess it's a real graft, but made by cutting and regluing the original head to the original neck. Horrible looking scroll, though.
  10. Truly terrible. How sad that he put it in the rack - I can't imagine not tying the case to my ankle because I'm exactly the sort of person to forget it unless it was attached to me. I hope he gets it back. A Gofriller!!!
  11. I think he's an MNetter, isn't he? I suppose it could be a different "Dan Keller", though. I'm surprised that he thinks that the one he's calling a Chappuy is "strikingly similar" to the images he supplies for comparison. To me they don't look at all alike. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong features.
  12. Nothing to protect honest buyers from unscrupulous sellers, I notice.
  13. Here's a buyer's story: I bought a brand-name item, paying promptly as I always do. He shipped me a no-name product, claiming it was the brand-name one I bought. I complained. His reply boiled down to "tough". I complained formally to ebay. They did everything they could to discourage me and close the case, insisting that the seller would have to admit wrongdoing to them. I couldn't get them to hear that he already HAD admitted it to them in the very first exchange. There was no listening at all. Finally, somehow, it penetrated and they blandly said that yes, he was guilty of misrepresentation and I could get my money back by paying to ship the misrepresented product back to him. When I pointed out that if I paid to ship it back it would leave me still out of pocket, they shrugged. Take it or leave it. I filed an FTC complaint and left negative feedback. The seller promptly retaliated and then mailed me suggesting mutual withdrawal. I declined, and complained to ebay again. Ebay shrugged again. The negative feedback is still in my record. The dirtbag folded up shortly thereafter and recently came back under a different name with a clean record. He even had the gall to mail me telling me about it!
  14. quote: Originally posted by: Jeffrey Holmes If the mortice is too shallow, are you planing to add a piece to the back of the foot as well as the sides? or.. is it just that the neck isn't tapered enough? The tenon isn't tapered enough (or at all, as near as I can tell). When I said 'shallow' I really meant the angle of divergence as seen from the top, not the inset depth. That depth, according to Strobel anyway, is fine: it goes about 2mm past the inner edge of the purfling. quote: Also, if it's just the angle, is the heal already narrow? What's your button width? Again I have to apologise for the confusion. The convergence angle of the heel top to bottom, seen from the neck end, looks reasonable to the eye, tapering from 30mm down to 19 at the button, across 30mm ribs. The button extends 14mm from the purfling channel, so visually it's relatively broad. Or isn't that what you're asking? quote: Anyway, if you're making a change to the heal/foot, I'd treat it the same as a normal neck re-set from that point on... which I'd plug the mortice for in many cases (and start a clean mortice) or at least add pices to the side (if there is room for adjustment on the floor). Also, if you are building out the sides of the heal, you may want to consider adding on any extention at the foot that's required (to gain the correct overstand) before adding on the side pieces... depending on how much needs to be added and where. I honestly wouldn't know how to begin deciding whether anything more is needed than gluing some shavings to the sides of the heel. The overstand seems about 5mm, maybe 5.5, whereas Strobel shows 6. Is that a significant difference?
  15. quote: Originally posted by: Jimbow How about this? Bloody hell.
  16. quote: Originally posted by: apartmentluthier I am assuming the top has not been removed. Right. That's the next step after refitting the neck: repair the 3748 table cracks.
  17. eeek! Sorry all, I was inadvertently confusing. The mortice is a shallow (very little taper) dovetail, but the tenon is even less tapered, and therefore fits loosely. So I'm planning on bulking it out with wood, and then trimming down to fit snugly. My question was meant to be: what sort of glue should I use to glue the make-up strips of wood to the sides of the tenon prior to the final shaping? I'm definitely not trying to use any sort of glue as a space filler - that's what was wrong with it in the first place. Once I get it re-fitted, I'll definitely glue it in with hide glue. It's only the shim bits I'm worried about (and I just now read John's reply saying white would be okay).
  18. Oh dear. Maybe a tin whistle for the in-between times? A nice, big Generation Bb whistle is fairly mellow, and they're nearly impossible to detune.
  19. If you were going to shim out the neck tenon to more snugly fit to the mortice, would you stay with hide glue or go with white (or some other kind)? This would be a compensating repair, not a breakage repair. I've checked several sources (e.g. Strobel), but it's apparently not a subject that ever comes up.
  20. quote: Originally posted by: GMM22 If I had to guess, I'd say the poster had tongue in cheek when posting. Possibly a little bit, but honestly not much. What crossed my mind was the same thing that crossed Shirl's: a boon to beginners. Also to people with certain deficits (like the man you wrote about - he can play but not tune), etc. Speaking of that man, I should think that Gibson could do a version for acoustic guitar that would replace the tailpiece. And who knows, maybe they'd be willing for the sake of the publicity (if not the karma), if you asked. I'm sure the software was the biggest hurdle for them - everything else is just robotics and rather well-understood. 6 or 12 tiny stepper motors, the same number of hard-alualloy geartrains, their controller card, and Bjorn Stronginthearm's your uncle. Also, though, now that I come to think about it -- he can obviously hear when it's gone out. Could he tune to a tuner that puts out the requisite tones? Or is there something about his deficit that would prevent that?
  21. Quite a nice-looking fiddle. I wonder when and why the fake label was stuck in - it hardly seems necessary.
  22. Very warmest welcome to Maestronet, Bonnie!
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