mrfiddle

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About mrfiddle

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  1. I think I'll set it up for myself, not worth it for me to sell and I'd rather play on something with age. It doesn't really matter how it sounds because I'm the only one that will ever hear it. Well, me and my dog who howls every time I play.
  2. Ah, that makes sense. I've easily fooled.
  3. I'm curious about the large amount of wear on the scroll, it must not be much later?
  4. Yes, it does look slightly that way. Interesting! Fair enough, thank you.
  5. I don't know how I've never seen that post about photographing violins, thank you! There a many repairs but they seem to be holding up ok, I wouldn't be doing any work on the violin, only setup including bridge and end pin. The pegs feel ok, for my needs at least.
  6. I have a violin I'm thinking of setting up for myself to play and wanted to make sure it isn't anything valuable before I do. It looks somewhere around 200 years old but I'm guessing it would only be in the mid hundreds at auction and in the very low thousands retail, in which case I don't mind working on it for myself. I have one set up for fiddle music but I'd like this set up for classical. I'm happy to add other pictures if that helps. Thanks in advance!
  7. Thank you for the replies. Childs' book looks amazing, I'll try and borrow it through the University interlibrary loan.
  8. I've never progressed to knowing much about bows, my taste in violins has gotten better through the years but recognizing bow makers still feels like magic to me.
  9. I'm looking at a large collection of violins and one of the interesting items is a Charles Peccatte violin bow. I can't find any good references for pictures other than auction results and I'm wondering if anyone has an idea of where to find pictures of the frog lining, mortise, different angles of the tip, etc. This is out of my knowledge base and any help is appreciated.
  10. The scary thing is I used to have some vintage violin restoration books and booklets that weren't too far off from my original post. Trolling? I hope not, maybe just a bad attempt at humor?
  11. And what about the ground coat. The soil on the ground here is more of a brown clay, but there are some nice red soils in Utah. Should I use the Utah soils for the ground coat if I a violin to look more like a Stradivarius?
  12. I'm writing an article for a local arts magazine on violin refinishing and I'm having a hard time figuring out what grit sandpaper most refinishers use during the first stage of restoration. It seems like 80 grit would be perfect for getting rid of imperfections but 150 grit would help to better retain the original character of the violin. Any advice? Thanks in advance
  13. I'm still curious, do Kloz violins usually have f-holes cut perpendicular to the arching or parallel with the ribs? Jeffrey's photo looks like they are perpendicular to the arching.
  14. A closeup photo of the line/joint below. It is hard to tell but it appears to have some grain lining up perfectly and I don't see any that dead ends. However, there is a build-up of varnish/gunk, so I'll leave it at undecided. I do think the flame angles slightly outward on the top of both sides, so Bruce might be onto something. I can't get a perfect picture but I'll include one more below that is pretty straight on. FYI, the edge of the back has been replaced in the middle below the center of the rib, see the joint in the lower right of the photo.
  15. That's enough for me, saves me a dendro and gives me a fun violin to hold onto for awhile. My nice case has been empty since I had to sell the 1776 Chappuy when we had our baby last year.