TedN

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  1. TedN

    http://flamemaple.sk

    These guys look a little sketchy too: https://www.goldentonewood.com/shop/ https://www.carpathiantonewood.com/how-to-buy/
  2. TedN

    http://flamemaple.sk

    Has anyone bought wood from this guy? http://flamemaple.sk Many years ago I got ripped off by a tonewood dealer around Slovakia or Romania. I am always leery about purchasing wood these days.
  3. TedN

    Air check in scroll wood

    Would you use this piece of wood for a scroll if it had an air check like this?
  4. TedN

    Illegible label on Italian auction cello

    It looks like that label could have been made illegible on purpose. Notice how the dirt is in a halo around just the label and no where else. This could have been simply from the dirt coming through the f holes in that circular pattern, but usually it's a bit more dispersed throughout the area than we're seeing here.
  5. TedN

    Self-taught violin makers

    I was in your shoes maybe 8 years ago. I thought I could teach myself how to make a violin through the Courtnall book. I gave it a shot and learned a lot, but the violin was horrendous. Then I found a professional violin maker (not going to name names here) who was willing to teach me. He told me on day one that I need to forget everything that I thought I knew, and do exactly what he does, with the exact tools that he used. I've been at it for a very long time. I've made high quality, professional level violins under his tutelage. I realized there was no way I would have gotten to this level if I didn't have instruction from an expert. There's too many nuances in building a violin to be able to teach yourself from a book, in my humble opinion. Well, that is, if you're going to build one well. My other opinion is that if you're not going to do it right, then it's not really worth doing it at all because it is an enormous investment in time and money. I've spent at least 40 thousand dollars between tools, lessons, wood, ect. Maybe more. So, my advice, for what it's worth, is to find an excellent luthier, and commit yourself to the lifestyle of violin making. It really is a life long commitment if you're going to do it right. I think of it like having kids. Once you have them, you have them.
  6. TedN

    Taking out test label

    I'll give this a shot. I used hide glue.
  7. TedN

    Taking out test label

    I purchased a white violin off ebay to practice varnishing. I varnished it, and it has been hanging around for several years. I figured I might as well glue on a fingerboard, put some strings on it, set it up correctly and pass it along to a student. In any case, I had practiced inserting a "test" label into this fiddle. I wanted to practice inserting a label through the f hole, before I attempted it on one of my real instruments. It was one of my real labels, but I can't sell it like that. What's the best way to get it out of there? Should I put some damp paper towels over it, and leave it for a couple hours, then hope I can peal it out? I suppose I could just label over it, but that could be a cause for confusion down the road if the first label became humid and peeled off. I'd rather start fresh with a new label explaining that I did the varnish and setup work, but it's a chinese instrument.
  8. TedN

    miniature milling machine

    Oh, I thought you were talking about a heat treatment for bluing like you'll see on old firearms.
  9. TedN

    miniature milling machine

    Don, this is the type of machine I was thinking about purchasing. Which type do you have? I see they can be purchased at Harbor Freight, but those may not be precision enough for flattening? Probably a conversation for another thread, but how do you blue your metal?
  10. TedN

    miniature milling machine

    I was wondering if anyone owns a miniature milling machine for flattening planes and things. If so, what kind do you own and do you like it?
  11. TedN

    kiln dried wood

    Well, if you felt grass clippings that were freshly cut and grass clippings that had been backing in the sun all summer, you'd be able to tell which one had moisture content and which one didn't, with a blind fold on. One is crisp and one is more malleable. I think you can do the same with wood, to some degree. ... Yes, but isn't it all connected? You seal the ends of the wood to prevent air checks, but the reason the air checks form (I believe) is because the wood is drying out unevenly? I think that's the cause of air checks, but I could be mistaken. But then when you seal the ends, the moisture gets stuck within the wood, (kind of like sealing the ends of a straw) and the only way for it to escape is to permeate through the wood cells. That, I would imagine, is a slow process, unless the wood cells are somewhat porous. I'm not sure. Eventually the moisture probably escapes. What I was wondering is if the water escaping through the wood cells makes the cells relax a bit and releases tensions in the wood. Purely speculating here.
  12. TedN

    kiln dried wood

    Thanks for all your replies! Martin, when you say " But correctly kilned wood has exactly the same properties as air-dried wood as Don says. Mainly it feels different to air-dried wood because it's .... dry. " Do you mean that perhaps air dried wood may still be retaining some of the moisture, whereas, kiln dried wood is totally, totally dry. Like desert dry? I wonder if it's too dry, if that impacts the instrument. The wood I have feels like saltine crackers it's so dry. Other air dried wood that I have, feels dry, but you can tell there's some moisture in there still. Kind of hard to describe I guess. Air dried wood is sealed on the ends with wax while it still has some moisture content within the wood. I'm not exactly sure how the moisture escapes the wood cells, but it must escape eventually by osmosis I presume. I wonder if the water escaping through the wood cells somehow relieves tensions within the wood?
  13. TedN

    kiln dried wood

    I had used wood from this particular seller before and my teacher suspected that it was kiln dried. The reason was that the ribs were impossible to bend. They always snapped. He couldn't even bend them, and he's an expert. I wonder if this is a characteristic of kiln dried wood? I wonder if the kiln drying somehow impacts the flexibility of the wood.
  14. TedN

    kiln dried wood

    I purchased some tonewood from a supplier, but it feels very dry to me. Is there a way to tell if wood has been kiln dried? If I can find out that it has been kiln dried, should I still make a violin from it? Does it make a lesser quality instrument?
  15. TedN

    aehnelt cello bending iron

    Thanks David! Oh, I think you're correct. It's the base, which would not present a problem. I was first imagining that they had coated the iron itself with a lacquer, but apparently not! Thanks again!