• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mignal

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I made a bending iron and had it cast (solid) in some type of Aluminium. It takes 30 minutes to reach the temperature that I need and then I just pull the plug. I never did fit a thermostat to it although that was my original intention. With my iron it just isn't needed.
  2. mignal


    Any recommendations for a 'tube ready' madder that's available in the UK. Either for adding as a tincture or for use as a glaze.
  3. That doesn't sound correct as far as re-sawing is concerned. I think that wording is somewhat ambiguous and misleading. You need to tension the blade so that it doesn't deflect in the cut. A blade that has insufficient tension coupled with the vibration that is set up in the bandsaw will result in the washboard effect. Either that or it will lead to blade wander. My bandsaw is a small affair with a 7 inch depth of cut. I cannot sufficiently tension a 3/4 inch 3 TPI blade. The structure of my bandsaw is such that it simply cannot apply enough tension on the blade, I have to use a 1/2 inch th
  4. Why is 6 TPI wrong for hardwood? If I'm re-sawing I use a 3 TPI blade irrespective of the wood. If I'm cutting something at 2 inch then 6 TPI is probably just about right but that depends on both your bandsaw and how fine a finish to the cut you require. The common problem with the smaller bandsaws is that they have a difficult time getting enough tension on the blade. Either switch to a blade with lesser width and/or use the blades that are made with a thinner gauge metal - both make it easier to tension the blade. Guide set up and the set up in general is crucial on bandsaws, on smaller mo
  5. Try one of these: A baby bottle warmer with a food jar cut into the warming tray. Temperature varies by a few degrees but providing you set it to max at 140 it really isn't a problem.
  6. Sorry my answer relates to the Chisels but the gouges will employ the same steel.
  7. My guess is that at 60 to 100W it will struggle to get hot enough. In fact I think more like 300 to 500 W is more like it. My iron is a solid block of Aluminium and the element is 500 Watt.
  8. My understanding is that Hirsch and Two Cherries are the same chisel. They are considered very decent chisels for the price and you shouldn't have problems with the steel. I have used one but can't remember too much about it, I didn't like the handle but I'm very keen on the ergonomics of these things. Two Cherries are available both polished and unpolished. Opt for the unpolished otherwise the bevel edges and back of the chisel are rounded in the process of making them look pretty. The other Chisel to consider in a similar price range is the Ashley Isles.
  9. You must have found someone who either had a poor bandsaw or blade or wasn't quite sure what he was doing. Luthier woods are no different to others when it comes to re-sawing. Just because it's got a bit of figure shouldn't make any difference and Maple just isn't that hard as woods go. I've seen lots of amateur woodworkers post pictures of 9 or 10 inch stock they've re-sawn at a veneer thickness of 1 mm, all with very little wander. Even my pathetic bandsaw is capable of cutting 6 inch stock (it's max), except mine wanders a little but the bandsaw is the cheapest you can possibly buy with a 6
  10. You need someone with a Bandsaw that can cut a minimum (I guess) 10 inch depth of cut. For general hobby woodworkers and furniture makers that depth isn't huge. You could post a request over at the Woodnet forum, must be someone in your area who will be willing to help out. You might be better off marking the section you want cutting off and erring on the side of caution, then tell the person resawing it to do the same.
  11. Probably. You shouldn't need to get the plates that hot, just warm enough so that the glue doesn't chill when it hits the surface. A hairdryer pointed at the gluing surfaces will pretty much achieve the same thing though.
  12. The Shellacs that have the low wax content always seem to have a longer shelf life than those with higher wax contents, that's my limited experience. You can always do a quick test with old shellac so there's no need to discard it unless it's not drying as it should.
  13. Silk strings were being used by guitarists in the late 19 th century.
  14. This is probably an area where many Violin makers and Guitar makers disagree. For the Guitarmaker French Polish is a great finish because they believe that it has either no effect or very little effect on the tone. You may not like the look of it but if done correctly the actual thickness of the finished film is extremely thin. It may appear as though there's a huge amount on but it's much thinner than brushed on oil varnish. In actual fact it's not that unusual for a guitarist to have the back/sides of their instrument redone after a mere 3 years because the Shellac (in certain areas) has com
  15. Most commercially available Shellacs have a wax content, perhaps not as much as Oded likes. Some are more 'refined' and contain very little wax. As far as I know most users de-wax their shellac to avoid that softer look. I've even tried to French Polish with the sediment left after the de-waxing process, now that really was a soft, waxy finish.