Mike D

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About Mike D

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  1. Well let me say I have no complaints with Shar instruments. I think their Concert line is extremely well made. I was very impressed with the one I rented. I was just trying to figure out whats wrong with the Amadeus that I have. And even if I do nothing I'll be happy with it as a camping/travel viola. Its just that it hasn't seemed to respond to a setup like the others have and I'm trying to make sense out of it. I can't imagine that 1/8 inch by 1/8 inch blocks of wood would make any difference to structurual integrity of an instrument. Guess I'll go ahead and pop the
  2. Well I've thoroughly inspected the bass bar as much as I can without removing the top plate. I cannot see any evidence of glue anywhere along the length of the bar. When I look at my Eastman and Gliga I do in fact see glue on the edges where the bar meets the top plate. On the Amadeus the bar looks completely homogenous with the rest of the wood and it seems to actually rise out of the plate itself. I'm not sure why anyone would glue little squares of wood on the top and bottom plates what would be the purpose of that. Its not seen on any of my other instruments. The part of the b
  3. First of all please forgive the leaps of assumptions I will make in this write up. I purchased a blem Shar Amadeus viola as wrech around for travel etc. It actually has a pretty nice sound but being an engineer I can't leave well enough alone. So I did the normal setup stuff soundpost and bridge. The problem that I'm having is because eventhough the bridge fits perfectly without the strings. Under string tension the bass side seens to change shape making the end of the bridge pull away from the viola surface. Is this normal for violas to do this? I've set up only 2 violas before this
  4. Thanks Difrangia! While I'm at it might as well pick some of those up too. My violin habit is going to be a black hole for money I know. But theres something so "right" almost spiritual about working on them. As long I can get it as right. But since it takes a lifetime to learn I'll just do the best I can. Mike
  5. Well I was thinking the LN 102 Low angle could probably do thinner cuts which might be nicer for bridges. But not having that much experience with it I'm not sure thats the right thinking. Guess I'll learn in the process. One thing is clear. The LN planes are a work of art. Just beautiful!! Thanks for recommending them Jerry!!
  6. No kidding thats good information Berl. Might as well buy from eBay then if I go that route. But I think I'm going the Lie Nielson 102 route.
  7. Thanks Joseph! That makes absolute sense. I never thought about glue reactivation.
  8. Hmmmmmmmm well I can see theres strong opinion on both sides of the Hide Vs Elmer situation. I have learned a lot from the heated debate. Thanks all!!
  9. I've been using a Stanley block plane but its sooo big it feels like taking a sludge hammer to a shoe tac. It works fine but I was wondering what people like to use on bridges. I saw the Lutz Flat Bottom Plane and the Lutz Palm plane and they looked like they might be good candidates? http://www.diefenbacher.com/luthier3.htm Very pretty too. But I wasn't sure if they were made with bridges in mind? Thanks in advance for your help! Mike
  10. Thanks everyone! I do like the idea of hide glue better. Guess i might as well get going with that. But Ill use Elmers on the Chinese no-name a friend asked me todo.
  11. I recently changed out my tailpiece (for the first time). I found that the nylon tailgut stretched a bit over time. Is there a certain amount of adjustment that should be used to compensate for this stretch? The afterlength tuning seemed to go from a G to a G# on the C string. It sounds fine the way it is. I was just wondering.
  12. Hello I haven't invested in a hide glue setup yet. But I have some violins to setup so I was wondering what most people use for glueing the nut on? I bought a setup DVD but it didnt say what he used. Although it looked like dab of Elmers. Thanks Mike