Ed Shillitoe

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About Ed Shillitoe

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    Syracuse NY

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  1. Sounds like sealing wax to me as well. When I was a child we had to use it to fasten knots on the string that went around parcels wrapped in brown paper. We got sticks of it from the post office. You tied the knot on the parcel, heated the end of the sealing wax with a match until it got drippy, then quickly pressed it down onto the knot. It solidified immediately and held the knot closed. I expect you could do the same thing with a hank of bow hair.
  2. This week I was due to ship a new bow to a principal of one of the big US symphony orchestras - when I told him it was coming he asked to delay the trial and wanted his deposit back! He has been told that they will not play again until the end of April but of course there is no guarantee that they will restart then.
  3. Here's a possible solution - it's a prototype of a bow fluting plane that I put together at Oberlin a couple of summers ago, with help from David Orlin. I haven't used it for an actual bow yet - the picture shows a test on a scrap of wood. I have a larger one for the reeding at the butt end of the bow. The details on the head have to be done with small gouges. Ed
  4. My tip is to make sure that you and your customers understand the liability for import duties. These can be large, and until they are paid the postal services will not deliver the violin. Ed
  5. Good idea Duane! I sent the link to our local art theater. Ed
  6. Well it's a little sad to see all that go. I used to visit that shop with my girl friend (now wife) many years ago and get advice on violin making. Ed used to sharpen my tools for me before I got the equipment for doing that! Ed
  7. Jerry - do you have a source for un-threaded eyelets? Ed
  8. Take a look at Sai Gao's Facebook page. A couple of days ago he posted a new jig to help fitting eyelets.
  9. OK, Here's my list: 1. Gasteig. The cultural center, where the Munich Philharmonic and other groups perform. Tomorrow they have Hilary Hahn for example. 2. The S-Bahn. The underground/overground train that goes all over, including the airport. Not expensive and easy to use. 3. The Englischer Garten. A huge city park for walking, running, jogging etc. A beer garden at one end and a nude sunbathing area at the other. Something for everyone! 4. Hugendubel. One of the biggest book stores anywhere, just off the Marienplatz. 5. Bauer and Hieber. A sheet music store with all kinds of books and musical publications. And also - the Hofbräuhaus. A great restaurant / pub with amazing German food and drink. Visiting musicians congregate there.
  10. Hi Argon: I have a gold and ivory mounted bow that Garner Wilson made for me in 1973, and it has the number 303 on the stick, under the frog. He left Hills in 1966, which would have been 7 years prior. I suppose that means that he was numbering them sequentially from that date, and producing over 40 a year. It sounds like a lot, but I suppose it is possible. If I'm right, then your bow would be from about 1975. The cost would have been 85 pounds, plus 2 pounds for shipping! I've always liked his work. Ed
  11. Thanks Brad. That's exactly what I was looking for. And thanks FenwickG. I'll look up the Alberti solution, but I think the way Brad does it is probably the most accurate. The stick I am working with is not only old and worn, but some previous repairer has filed away at the facets in an effort to fit a commercial frog. I doubt if any jig is going to help a lot.
  12. Thanks everyone! Nice to hear from you Ben! Maybe I didn't explain the question too well. I do have a lathe, but by itself it does not drill the inner hole exactly in the right place n the bushing. With a traditional bit there is the probability of the tip wandering a little before it bites and starts to drill in. Even if it didn't wander there is still the possibility that the eyelet is not placed quite correctly in a lateral direction in the existing frog. Also the inner hole has to be exactly on a line that is parallel with the upper facet of the bow. If it is not, then the frog will get too tight or too loose as it travels back and forth. One way to help might be to use a guide such as shown in Fig 8.9 of John Stagg's book. But that would still not help to get the screw exactly parallel to the top facet of the bow. I think the only way to line up the drill (whether a step drill or a conventional drill) exactly, would be to seat the frog exactly in place and use the eyelet to guide the drill. But -that requires having the eyelet extending exactly the right amount from the frog and I'm not sure how to arrange that. Of course in making a new bow the situation is much easier - the stick is an exact octagon and there is also some trimming of the stick left to do, and that can help to seat the frog. On an old bow the stick can have all sorts of distortions and peculiarities and the frog can have its own little quirks as well.
  13. When bushing an old bow where the screw holes have become really worn, what is the best method for drilling the small hole accurately? The placement of this hole is critical, because if it is too high or too low, the frog will be loose or will bind at one end of its travel. The way I do it is to drill the large hole first, then put the frog in place and drill the small hole with a long drill that passes through the eyelet. This works well if the eyelet is screwed into just the correct depth. But if it is just one turn too high or too low then the small hole will not be placed correctly and the frog will bind. But, how to find if the eyelet is the right height, without doing it wrong the first time and repeating the bushing? I do have a Bow Badger and it works quite well on a new bow, but for an old worn-down bow it is not so good. Any suggestions? Thanks! Ed
  14. Thank you all - that's very helpful. Especially for the two links! Ed