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Florian Schneidt

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Everything posted by Florian Schneidt

  1. That’s what I thought and that’s why I think it can’t be a Vigneron.... Thanks for your answer!
  2. The vuillaime slide has a rounded underside of the stick, whereas the hill slide is cornered. I have a bow that is supposed to be a vigneron, but it has a cornered underslide as in many hill bows... Is that possible?
  3. I have a question: when did the Hills come up with the “Hill-underslide”? Before 1924 or after? A. Vigneron died in 1924, did he make or could he ever have made a bow with an hill underslide? Thanks for any expert opinion! Florian
  4. I've been away for a while, it's been a turbulent time.... This is my latest, next year will see me more productive I hope.
  5. Sorry, I got lost a bit in this thread, now back on track.... Thanks!
  6. About spiral growth: most pernambuco sticks twist a little during the cambering proces, some twist a lot. The twist can occur both ways, it is not always the same direction. (The problem is that you can't be absolutely sure that you have put in that twist by your hands..) I know of one person who believes the trees follow the sun and develop twist in one direction only, just like a field of sunflowers. Most other makers say their twist is random... I'd love to hear other peoples opinion... Sorry for getting this thread even more off topic!
  7. In my opinion it's near to impossible to get an invisible repair here. The glue line will show and the white will be different. I'd use a bit of mammoth, try to find a piece that is close in coulour, insert it like you'd repair an ebony frog and then polish away a bit of the patina of the original to match the two surfaces. Point is to have a structural sound repair without removing (a lot of) original material. Should there ever be a cosmetically satisfying method in the future and the bows value justifies it, the repair can be done over....
  8. Craig, I had look at your sticks on the last page. Did you taper the height of the stick and shape more or less the profile of the head but not taper the sides of the stick and head yet? If that is the way Josh suggested, relax and just continue with his instructions. I do my sides first (including the head sides) before shaping any profile.
  9. Craig, in my opinion there is no difference in difficulty if it is a round or an octagonal stick. If you intend to make a round stick you first need to make it a really good octagon and then 16th and so on, at least if you want a good control of taper and roundness. So, especially as you are doing some Tourte thing, yes, go for octagon.
  10. Frederick, you need to heat the stick from all sides, and to a temperaure near to scorching. This strip will scorch one side of the stick and not heat the other sides well enoug.
  11. I checked my insurance policy and compared it to Jacob Saunders', as a consequence I emailed Larks to ask for confirmation that my policy, which doesn't explicitedly exclude damage done by me, would actually cover a case like the one we are talking about here. If thats the case they offer a reasonably gooed deal, at least if you actually want an insurance. Rodney Mohrs advice on not working on bows that you are not able to pay out on your own, is sound advice too. I mean, the risk is actually very low, and there are not so many bows that are worth more than a couple of thousands. From an insurance company I would expect, that they don't make me starring in a lawsuit when there is a liability, but as of now it is speculation if that is the case here. Edit: Got a reply, saying that accidents at the workbench are covered but not damage as a result of my work. Refering me to exclusion ''Q'' which is on the back of the coverage page, hidden well behind the usual terrorist, nuclear, environmental desaster exclusion....
  12. Mostly the threads on top of the stick in front of the lapping start to fray, where the index finger rests... I haven't had any orchestra player where the lapping lasted more than a few years, yet.
  13. Ski, I was a bit in a hurry and didn't really cover your post. I think the balance point doesn't matter too much, as long as the inherent balance in the stick is alright. I test my bows (in the orchestra) without lapping and my feeling is that the added lapping introduces some sort of stability, but I don't know if that is because there is a change in tactile experience. One other thing: change of strokes at the frog gets smoother. Probably because the weight of the head is counterbalanced.
  14. Skiingfiddler, L's bow is 58 grams (light). He could move his balance point toward a more conventional spot by adding a few grams of silver lapping (I think he might still be a bit tip heavy) If he wanted to sell it to someone solely concerned with weight he might then have a bow that is a bit more in the mainstream.
  15. Silk lapping usually doesn't last longer than a few years when regularily used. I suggest you wait that long and then decide if you would like a plain silver lapping. Many players fall in love with the look and feel of an fancy sill lapping but hate the time it disintegrates into loose strands after a certain amount of time..:: ( and the cost of having it replaced)
  16. Jacob, thanks! I will read the small lines better...
  17. I put a liberal amount of Tung oil on a small block of pernambuco a couple of month ago: Today I planed away at the side. I can't see any sort of infusion into the pernambuco. I think this sort of oily wood is quite resistent to stuff seeping into it...
  18. I feel confident with recambering bows and I haven't broken one yet while doing so. But a story like this makes my heart beat faster and get me even more determinded to do as little recambering as possible, advise clients about the possible risk and send clients with more expensive bows than my insurance covers away.... The question if the stick was heated is really peculiar.
  19. Probably not very keen, but I expect them to do so (and preferable without a big fuss and ruining the last bit of reputation I still might have). Am I naive (being insured with Larks)?
  20. To my best knowledge: (all numbers are concerning violin bows) 1. Yes most do, I think 2. I think 10mm is a bit much, 5mm shorter is probably more common. Peccatte style bows are a little shorter, so hair length isn't increased. 3. Yes, shorter handle means generally a shorter distance from stick end to balance point. In my opinion it makes more sense to measure the balance point from the thumb projection (as Strobel) This is the balance the player feels, with the thumb acting as a sort of pivot point. This whole balance point thing is not very productive if you are not absolutely sure what to do with the measurements. Personally I try to keep my balance point at about 19cm in front of the frog, but with a light silk lapping I will accept it a little further away. I know for sure I am in trouble with a stick when I can't manage to move the balance point to 19cm by adding about 3-4 grams (this is about the difference between a silver lapping and silk). Several other people have posted good posts about balance points in the past on MN. General questions: 1. Before Tourte, Peccatte etc bow length was varying a lot more than today. Peccattes are usually a bit on the shorter side, early 20th century bows are quite standardised at 727 to 730mm. 2. I don't think there is much deliberate deviation nowadays. (Trying be to the point short makes me sound very confident of the correctness of my answers, this is not my intention)
  21. Oops, of course 50, not 500mm. And yes, Peccattes have a short handle.
  22. From thumb leather (=front of frog in loosened position) to end of stick (excluding the nipple) is about 500mm (for a Peccatte style bow). So Lusitano is right that his bow is out of balance by about 5-6 cm, considering a good standard is about 19cm from front of frog. Balance point is not a holy cow and there are many reasons why sometimes it is desirable/possible/good to deviate a little from the standard, but keep in mind that to compensate Lusitanos bow by changing the lapping you would have to add about 20 grams, which is impossible. So either the stick itself is terribly out of balance or the head has a lot of lead in (or the frog is made out of eider down) Sorry guys, I typed a little slow, you got sorted out already!
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