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Joris

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Posts posted by Joris

  1. 3 minutes ago, PaganiniGuitar said:
    12 hours ago, Rmueller9 said:

    B113309D-FA0C-45C0-9B60-525EA1277AB5.jpeg

     

    Can someone decipher the words at the bottom of this photo? It reads ‘EDISTUS P…’?

     

    I would expect the first word to be [BEN]EDICTUS 

  2. 7 hours ago, JackSchmidling said:

    I think I confused things a bit.  The orig pic was of the rental instrument and the one here is my violin after they replaced the bridge.  As can be seen here the bridge is in the right place but the C to C distance between bridge and sound post is about 10 mm.  It was less than half that when I brought it in.

    I was told that the guy who did it was on a fishing trip.

     

    Jack

     

    POST9.JPG

    Apart from measuring the location of the sound post in a different way, I would also consider using a more accurate ruler, because the first mm on the ruler in the photo looks like it is almost 2 mm.

  3. 18 hours ago, nathan slobodkin said:

      For a while T-nuts were common on cellos to provide extra hand clearance in first or half position. Does anyone use such a stepped nut to increase neck measurement on violins? Seems like an inexpensive modification to short necked French instruments. I can’t really think of a downside other than looking funny and perhaps wearing out a bit faster than a nut with a wider string bearing surface.

    I don't think I understand, wouldn't a t-nut decrease instead of increase the already short neck length and only make the problem worse? 

  4. 2 hours ago, joerobson said:

    My guess..looks like what they used to call Barber's acid which was a weak lye solution.

    Interesting, barber's acid, which is a weak lye solution sounds a bit contradictory... I did a bit of searching online, but I didn't find much additional information on barber's acid. Can you tell me what barber's acid consists of?

  5. By the way, the intention of my previous post is not to impact anyone's business positively or negatively, but to show that copying photos from a dealer's website and posting them on a forum without a link is not the best way to 'not identify' the dealer.

  6. 5 minutes ago, martin swan said:

    With respect, I think the problem is one of asking a question on a violin-making forum. It's impossible to know if the person answering has any serious ability to identify timber or not.

    I would just point out that I ran a sawmill for the best part of 15 years, and felled and planked pretty much every hardwood that you might find in north Central Europe. Beech is so common here it's practically a weed, and I really don't need a microscope to recognize it.

    We aren't trying to identify a species of spruce (which isn't that difficult if you've got a standing tree to look at), merely to distinguish a very common tree with known characteristics (elephantine smooth grey bark, false heartwood of a yellow/brown hue, yellow rot in the centre, very wide annular rings with pinkish grain giving way to yellow on the outside, odourless shavings etc etc etc) from various other things which don't have those characteristics. Apple has a bark made up of plaques, olive doesn't grow in Holland, Norway maple has a diamond-patterned open bark and doesn't have a pink hue, hickory (not European) has a heavy dark grain pattern, etc etc ...

    In that case I think I got lucky that I ran into someone who used to run a sawmill on a violin forum :)

    Thanks for all your suggestions and I hope you have a Christmas as wonderful as my piece of beech and I have! 

  7. 17 hours ago, uncle duke said:

    Apple, pear or plum in that order or plum, apple or pear.  If this was cut right outside the house it is probably apple.  Tough to really tell from here.

    Based on your suggestion, I think it might indeed be apple. There are some pieces with very similar figure on this website: http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/apple.htm, and the specific gravity of 0.83 (https://www.wood-database.com/apple/) also does not seem to be too far off compared to my estimate of 1.

    And it also makes sense that it isn't any tropical variety, but just wood from an apple tree from someone's back yard...

    So, does anyone have any (good/bad) experience using apple wood for fittings?

  8. My aunt recently gave me a piece of wood, because after 20 years of having it and plans to carve it laying around, she doesn't expect to ever take up wood carving... 

    The wood has a density of ca. 1 kg/dm^3, and is quite hard; I can't make any visible dent in it using my fingernail. It seems like it could be used for fittings, or maybe even a fingerboard, but I would like to know what type of wood it is, and if others have had some success in using this type of wood.

    I have planed two sides flat, and despite the wood being quite hard, it wasn't too difficult to plane. The shavings didn't seem to have a distinct smell. Photos can be found below:

    IMG_20191222_120401.jpg

    IMG_20191222_120318.jpg

    IMG_20191222_120243.jpg

    IMG_20191222_120225.jpg

  9. Whenever I see cheap violin making tool sets on websites like eBay, AliExpress, etc. (which I probably shouldn't be looking at at all, I know :)) , very often this kind of tool is included:

    tool.png.1adaea321b0812c5b0589924530a4e30.png

    I haven't been able to find what the tool is for, can anyone enlighten me?

    Thanks

  10. The description has been changed:

    I have imaged, as you I'm sure can see above, two violin cases. Within these two cases are violins of either the Americas, or Europe. Both feature not any visible cracks, and do have highly figured maple as well as fine grained spruce. Purchasing this listing will grant a single case and a single violin, I will choose a case which I have already placed a violin inside of. All violins will be of the 4/4 size, will include a full size case, and will have new fittings and strings. The violins will feature authentic labels. No bows are included. If any questions or suggestions relating to this posting come to mind, do please contact me.

    So now it's only a 50/50 chance for getting either a European violin, or a violin 'of either the Americas', also a very good game!

  11. Hi everyone,

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Violoncello-4-4-Cello-Mateo-Bruni-1949-u-V/192287360142?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Da98b1ce51e004842bb8c398545161c3b%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D222615375260&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ab624b01c-88e7-11e7-8f53-74dbd18052d1%7Cparentrq%3A1508ab1a15e0abda4bd10caefffc759d%7Ciid%3A1

    I saw this cello on ebay, which has a label saying Mateo Bruni 1949, but it doesn't look right to me... (apart from the bridge that is placed the wrong way around :)) It looks too new to be from 1949, and also the fingerboard looks as though it's just come out of the workshop.

    Would this be an example of a new Chinese instrument, with a fake label of a not too well-known Italian luthier, to make it not too obvious that it is something else, or could this be genuine?

    Joris

  12. Hi everyone,

     

    I was wondering, although there are of course a lot of different factors playing a role, are there any general things that can be said about the relation between string tension and sound characteristics on e.g. a cello? For example, if I would have a regular tension a string and I would replace it with a high tension a string, will the sound (generally) become 'warmer' or less warm, etc.?

     

    I understand that a statement like that will never hold for all instuments and all cases, and also that string tension is of course not the only method to change sound characteristics, but I can imagine that to a certain extent a prediction can be made on the effect of increasing or lowering string tension on the sound.

     

    Thanks!

    Joris

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