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Joris

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Posts posted by Joris

  1. 21 hours ago, Jim Bress said:

    You cook for color separately from making the varnish. Reducing the weight by ~80%. You need approximately twice the cooked colophony as you have in the varnish. Remelt the cooked colophony and add 1:1 LO by weight then add to varnish. 
     

    I cook the colophony for color first. Then do everything else the same time. 

    I am not sure if I understand you correctly.

    Do you mean that if you make a varnish using 100g colophony and 100g linseed oil, you would add another 200g of cooked colophony for color (obtained from 1kg uncooked colophony) and 200g linseed oil? That sounds like a lot!

    Or would you add 40g of cooked colophony (obtained from 200g uncooked colophony) and 40g linseed oil?

  2. 4 minutes ago, Marty Kasprzyk said:

    A top view doesn't show the actual neck length if the neck angle is tilted downward.A top view is only correct when the neck goes straight out.

     

    True, but for (for instance) a neck angle of 5° and a neck length of 130 mm, the difference is only 0.5 mm, which seems within the error margin of taking measurements from photos anyway.

  3. 8 minutes ago, Michael_Molnar said:

    Which “old instrument”? Which maker? Made when? Which research group? Which scientific tools?

    All very good questions! 

     

    My idea was to start with the broad question if there is any evidence obtained by any research group using any scientific tool that can differentiate between potassium silicate and other forms of potassium and silicon, about any string instrument from any period by any maker... 

    If the answer to this very broad question is no, we might not even need the more specific questions anymore :)

  4. 6 hours ago, David Burgess said:
    14 hours ago, joerobson said:

    Water glass...potassium silicate....Rubio Ground...interesting.   These elements have been observed in the old varnish studies.

    Potassium and silicon are common in the earths' crust. Their presence is not necessarily indicative of potassium silicate. Could just as well be dirt or mineral dust.

    Does anyone know of any evidence that the potassium and silicon that have been detected on old instruments using elemental analysis would specifically be in the form of potassium silicate? If not, I agree that there are countless other possibilities for these elements to end up on a varnished or unvarnished instrument.

  5. 3 minutes ago, PaganiniGuitar said:
    12 hours ago, Rmueller9 said:

    B113309D-FA0C-45C0-9B60-525EA1277AB5.jpeg

     

    Can someone decipher the words at the bottom of this photo? It reads ‘EDISTUS P…’?

     

    I would expect the first word to be [BEN]EDICTUS 

  6. 7 hours ago, JackSchmidling said:

    I think I confused things a bit.  The orig pic was of the rental instrument and the one here is my violin after they replaced the bridge.  As can be seen here the bridge is in the right place but the C to C distance between bridge and sound post is about 10 mm.  It was less than half that when I brought it in.

    I was told that the guy who did it was on a fishing trip.

     

    Jack

     

    POST9.JPG

    Apart from measuring the location of the sound post in a different way, I would also consider using a more accurate ruler, because the first mm on the ruler in the photo looks like it is almost 2 mm.

  7. 18 hours ago, nathan slobodkin said:

      For a while T-nuts were common on cellos to provide extra hand clearance in first or half position. Does anyone use such a stepped nut to increase neck measurement on violins? Seems like an inexpensive modification to short necked French instruments. I can’t really think of a downside other than looking funny and perhaps wearing out a bit faster than a nut with a wider string bearing surface.

    I don't think I understand, wouldn't a t-nut decrease instead of increase the already short neck length and only make the problem worse? 

  8. 2 hours ago, joerobson said:

    My guess..looks like what they used to call Barber's acid which was a weak lye solution.

    Interesting, barber's acid, which is a weak lye solution sounds a bit contradictory... I did a bit of searching online, but I didn't find much additional information on barber's acid. Can you tell me what barber's acid consists of?

  9. By the way, the intention of my previous post is not to impact anyone's business positively or negatively, but to show that copying photos from a dealer's website and posting them on a forum without a link is not the best way to 'not identify' the dealer.

  10. 5 minutes ago, martin swan said:

    With respect, I think the problem is one of asking a question on a violin-making forum. It's impossible to know if the person answering has any serious ability to identify timber or not.

    I would just point out that I ran a sawmill for the best part of 15 years, and felled and planked pretty much every hardwood that you might find in north Central Europe. Beech is so common here it's practically a weed, and I really don't need a microscope to recognize it.

    We aren't trying to identify a species of spruce (which isn't that difficult if you've got a standing tree to look at), merely to distinguish a very common tree with known characteristics (elephantine smooth grey bark, false heartwood of a yellow/brown hue, yellow rot in the centre, very wide annular rings with pinkish grain giving way to yellow on the outside, odourless shavings etc etc etc) from various other things which don't have those characteristics. Apple has a bark made up of plaques, olive doesn't grow in Holland, Norway maple has a diamond-patterned open bark and doesn't have a pink hue, hickory (not European) has a heavy dark grain pattern, etc etc ...

    In that case I think I got lucky that I ran into someone who used to run a sawmill on a violin forum :)

    Thanks for all your suggestions and I hope you have a Christmas as wonderful as my piece of beech and I have! 

  11. 17 hours ago, uncle duke said:

    Apple, pear or plum in that order or plum, apple or pear.  If this was cut right outside the house it is probably apple.  Tough to really tell from here.

    Based on your suggestion, I think it might indeed be apple. There are some pieces with very similar figure on this website: http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/apple.htm, and the specific gravity of 0.83 (https://www.wood-database.com/apple/) also does not seem to be too far off compared to my estimate of 1.

    And it also makes sense that it isn't any tropical variety, but just wood from an apple tree from someone's back yard...

    So, does anyone have any (good/bad) experience using apple wood for fittings?

  12. My aunt recently gave me a piece of wood, because after 20 years of having it and plans to carve it laying around, she doesn't expect to ever take up wood carving... 

    The wood has a density of ca. 1 kg/dm^3, and is quite hard; I can't make any visible dent in it using my fingernail. It seems like it could be used for fittings, or maybe even a fingerboard, but I would like to know what type of wood it is, and if others have had some success in using this type of wood.

    I have planed two sides flat, and despite the wood being quite hard, it wasn't too difficult to plane. The shavings didn't seem to have a distinct smell. Photos can be found below:

    IMG_20191222_120401.jpg

    IMG_20191222_120318.jpg

    IMG_20191222_120243.jpg

    IMG_20191222_120225.jpg

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