Joris

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Everything posted by Joris

  1. Joris

    Violin ID #6

    Christiania/Olso would be Norway (or Denmark-Norway in 1770), not Sweden
  2. I don't think I understand, wouldn't a t-nut decrease instead of increase the already short neck length and only make the problem worse?
  3. Interesting, barber's acid, which is a weak lye solution sounds a bit contradictory... I did a bit of searching online, but I didn't find much additional information on barber's acid. Can you tell me what barber's acid consists of?
  4. Is it me, or does it look like the button is separated from the neck heel?
  5. By the way, the intention of my previous post is not to impact anyone's business positively or negatively, but to show that copying photos from a dealer's website and posting them on a forum without a link is not the best way to 'not identify' the dealer.
  6. It is often quite easy to find out where unidentified photos originate from. Just do a reverse image search on Google (images.google.com), and it turns out that the photos appear to originate from this website: https://www.benningviolins.com/Fine-Violin-Catalog-Fine-Violins-for-Sale-Paul-Blanchard-violin.html
  7. The purfling corners of the front do not look similar to those of the back at all. Could either the back or the front be a replacement, especially the back with that huge ebony button crown?
  8. In that case I think I got lucky that I ran into someone who used to run a sawmill on a violin forum Thanks for all your suggestions and I hope you have a Christmas as wonderful as my piece of beech and I have!
  9. Based on your suggestion, I think it might indeed be apple. There are some pieces with very similar figure on this website: http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/apple.htm, and the specific gravity of 0.83 (https://www.wood-database.com/apple/) also does not seem to be too far off compared to my estimate of 1. And it also makes sense that it isn't any tropical variety, but just wood from an apple tree from someone's back yard... So, does anyone have any (good/bad) experience using apple wood for fittings?
  10. Unfortunately, I don't know what region it is from, and neither does my aunt whom I got the wood from. I live in the Netherlands, but I think wood this dense typically does not grow around here.
  11. My aunt recently gave me a piece of wood, because after 20 years of having it and plans to carve it laying around, she doesn't expect to ever take up wood carving... The wood has a density of ca. 1 kg/dm^3, and is quite hard; I can't make any visible dent in it using my fingernail. It seems like it could be used for fittings, or maybe even a fingerboard, but I would like to know what type of wood it is, and if others have had some success in using this type of wood. I have planed two sides flat, and despite the wood being quite hard, it wasn't too difficult to plane. The shavings di
  12. Rumor has it that all old Italian violins once had "double arching", but that they were all regraduated to modern proportions in the 19th century...
  13. Has anyone seen an arching like this before? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273020808665 It looks like a pregnant violin, if you wait a few more months, you'll get a 1/4 violin for free!
  14. Thanks for all your answers! Funny enough, I never see it in a set with scrapers, but almost always together with knives. Maybe Ali himself also doesn't really know what it is
  15. Whenever I see cheap violin making tool sets on websites like eBay, AliExpress, etc. (which I probably shouldn't be looking at at all, I know ) , very often this kind of tool is included: I haven't been able to find what the tool is for, can anyone enlighten me? Thanks
  16. The description has been changed: I have imaged, as you I'm sure can see above, two violin cases. Within these two cases are violins of either the Americas, or Europe. Both feature not any visible cracks, and do have highly figured maple as well as fine grained spruce. Purchasing this listing will grant a single case and a single violin, I will choose a case which I have already placed a violin inside of. All violins will be of the 4/4 size, will include a full size case, and will have new fittings and strings. The violins will feature authentic labels. No bows are included. If an
  17. Hi everyone, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Violoncello-4-4-Cello-Mateo-Bruni-1949-u-V/192287360142?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Da98b1ce51e004842bb8c398545161c3b%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D222615375260&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ab624b01c-88e7-11e7-8f53-74dbd18052d1%7Cparentrq%3A1508ab1a15e0abda4bd10caefffc759d%7Ciid%3A1 I saw this cello on ebay, which has a label saying Mateo Bruni 1949, but it doesn't look right to me... (apart from the bridge that is placed the wrong way arou
  18. Hi everyone, I was wondering, although there are of course a lot of different factors playing a role, are there any general things that can be said about the relation between string tension and sound characteristics on e.g. a cello? For example, if I would have a regular tension a string and I would replace it with a high tension a string, will the sound (generally) become 'warmer' or less warm, etc.? I understand that a statement like that will never hold for all instuments and all cases, and also that string tension is of course not the only method to change sound characteristics
  19. Hi all, My first post here on the MN forum... I find the adjustable neck very interesting! Would a neck like this allow for 'switching' between modern and baroque setup for instance? Joris