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About Polk

  • Birthday 05/09/1946

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Chico, CA
  • Interests
    Playing swing jazz violin, making and repairing violins, jazz guitar, have played drums, mandolin and bass in the past. Hot rod building. Novel and short story writing. I was a board member a few years back under the name polkat.

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  1. Frankly, while they were one of the original synthetic string sets, I've never really cared that much for them. They take a while to settle in and their lifespan is too short for the cost, to me. I've always liked lesser know strings, John Pierce "Artiste" strings being one of my favorites. But since Pierce died they are dropping in price and I suspect the quality will go soon too. But as many posters have pointed out here, different violins work best with different strings. So the concept of "Use these. Their great!" simply doesn't work.
  2. Sometimes when I want to do a small repair, and don't want to bother mixing up a big batch of true hide glue, I use Knox Unflavored gelatin. It is indeed true hide glue made from similar animal products, but is a bit stronger in result (about 325 strength), requiring faster working times. Comes in 4 little envelopes per box. Mix one envelop with 2 tablespoons of cold water until you get a smooth mix, and then heat to about 145F. You can get this stuff at Safeway or any big grocer.
  3. Well, I'll take a shot at it, and it looks like a crappy varnish job on plain maple to me.
  4. Well, I bought the thing, and I have to say it works fairly well. No problem getting it through the F holes. Does seem a bit flimsy. About the tightness of the post; if it seems loose, I just nudge it a bit further with the regular S setter. Win some loose some. I'm satisfied.
  5. Polk

    Bass bar wha...?

    Which brings us back to my original post. If two instruments are built, one with new "innovations" and the other with traditional methods, and they both sound just as good, then what is the value of those particular innovations? Sure, there have been a few innovations over the centuries that have paid off (consider the chin rest) but I can't see the value in adding new features that add little (or even distract to some) from the 'norm'. I think that his bass bar method is a mistake.
  6. Polk

    Bass bar wha...?

    Checked it out. He seems to be saying that since the grain of the top plate was "angled", he angled the bar to match. Hummm, not sure that the logic works, but maybe he has something. Think I'll just look for straight grain tops. Interesting site though.
  7. Polk

    Bass bar wha...?

    Hummm...seems like a rather high bar in that one. Of course I always tune my end pins to Bb and posts to A -b. But seriously...was there ever a school of thought that the bar should extend across into the treble side of the upper bout?? How would this effect the sound, or...would it?
  8. On You Tube there is a video of a fellow applying sealer to the inside of a violin top. It's here... I noticed the rather weird angle of the bass bar, which seems to angle across both sides of the top plate rather then in a traditional position. is there any advantage to this placement? Why was it done? Thanks!
  9. Yes, I am aware of the extra width a clip setter will add to the post during insertion. For fiddles with thin F holes I probably would not use it. Bill, interesting re-design on your S type setter. Seems to limit it's tapping abilities though. Part of my problem with the S type setter (aside from my old hands~and old eyes) is the density of the post wood I use, which is quite dense and difficult to get a good stab even with a sharp tip. Maybe I should reconsider that.
  10. One area I've always had a little trouble with is setting the sound post. I know where to set them usually, but with my old hands, I have trouble with my standard S shaped setter actually holding the post. I see there is a new setter out there with a little clip that holds the post until it's set and you yank the setter free. \ Does this actually work? Anyone here use these? Any drawbacks? Thanks!
  11. I have one of my old fiddles that plays nicely, but the back side of the neck is quite white. I'd like to darken it slightly. Any suggestions? Thanks!
  12. Or more likely they just don't want to bother learning how to property use hide.
  13. Windows 7 64bit here, which I think was the last best. Never seen that warning before.
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