curious1

Those look sweet. I think you’ve convinced me to use delrin.

I had imagined to chuck up the peg like this: the shaft can go in a three jaw chuck at the live end and I would make a small block off wood with a hole drilled in it slightly smaller than the pip on the head of the peg. The pip self centers in the hole on one side and the dead center goes in the hole on the other side. I’m pretty sure I could finish off the details of the collar if it was in the form of a plain ring glued in place on the peg. the pegs are very beautifully turned from fabulous wood so I don’t think I can bring myself to fix them w krazy glue (there are a couple worse than the one pictured).

Thank you everyone for the suggestions. this method seems the most sensible and workmanlike.

Hi! I have some very nice boxwood pegs with damaged ebony collars that I would like to replace. How difficult is it to turn them and where can I find out how to do it? Can I turn the new collars off the pegs and then just slide them on or must they be turned in place?

I think that can be fairly described as ‘crushing it’.

Very similar to the Stradivari peg. Very fine structure to the medullary rays and tight pore structure. My guess is some type of fruitwood. Pear, cherry, ive never seen plum (Meyer suggestion)?

This is a peg in the old style from a Stefano Scarampella.

Yes, yes, and yes.

Probably purfled after the top is glued to the ribs to which the neck is already joined but before the fingerboard goes on. The purfling goes past the neck but doesn’t join up.

Agreed. The joint gives it strength while the glue should just hold the joint in place.

Hi Edi, there’s not much to discuss. It either fits or it doesn’t. If one has trouble making it fit err to making it tighter at the bottom (at the button) and tighter at the front (ribs). There is not really any meaningful difference between the two neck settings styles as relates to the sides of the mortice

As I am comfortable with this joint’s similarity in three views with a dove’s tail, I will ignore the pedantry. It’s the trapezoidal shape that makes it a dovetail.

Additionally, most necks fail at the bottom of the mortice first and then the back of the mortice gives way. And while it is true that the back of the neck heel is mostly in compression that is only true only up until the bottom of the mortice fails. Also, the geometry of the <90 degrees is strongest for lateral stability also.

I’ve been meaning to post this for awhile to the 158degree neck angle discussion but it is now closed. So, new thread. This is the reason, to my mind, setting the bottom of the mortice deeper than the top makes the joint stronger. No doubt the engineers will correct my errors. in the 90degree option the neck rotates around point A (the top of the neck mortice). For the neck joint to fail the glue must break in tension at the back of the mortice and the bottom must break in shear. As the neck rotates the bottom of the joint opens and encourages this type of failure. in the <90degree option the neck again rotates around point A but now the bottom of the neck is forced into compression against the the bottom of the mortice. This greatly reduces the likelihood of failure in shear. Additionally the back of the mortice would need to fail in shear (C) AND in tension. The small lip at the top of the ‘neck’ illustrated below indicates that the neck would need to slip upward to escape the mortice. The back of the neck heel is longer than the mortice at 90 degrees. (The hypotenuse of a 90 degree triangle is longer than its base). Compression under load is the principal structural feature of the dovetail joint.