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About Stanley5184

  • Birthday 09/22/1995

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  1. Since i play cricket and know a bit about bats...i finally can contribute to something. I'm not sure if its the same willow....the blocks that came with my white viola has grains about 1mm apart. If this is the willow everyone is using for blocks, then you wont find it on a cricket bat. The grains on a cricket bat can range from 5-18 on the face which is about 15cm long. The closest grains i have seen were about 5mm apart, which is much further than the grains on my blocks. The cheap bats from india are made from kashmire willow whereas the better bats ($200+) are made from english willow which is grown in england. Kashmire heavier and harder which is why it is non prefered. English willow is softer and has more 'rebound' so it bounces off better for hitting the ball further. The face of the bat is usually only compressed about 5mm down, so you could still use all the rest of the bat. This is done so that the impact of the ball does not create surface cracks and the bat remains crack free. Hope i havn't veered too much off topic and wasted you time.
  2. Thanks for the advise....i think i'll just leave it. Have you ever heard about tuning a tail piece? http://www.dalemfg.com/acousticaladjustment_008.htm Interesting, but personally i think its a waste of time, i just dont see how it could improve the instrument.
  3. may i ask, what thickness did you leave it? Is there an ideal thickness or an approximate ideal thickness? I got a cheap ebony tail piece from china that came with my white viola, and only the top third is thicknessed, do you suggest i thin the rest? Will it have much effect on the tone? Thanks
  4. I bought those seperately, buy from the same seller and they were very cheap. zthey were included in the total price The finger board seems about right to me It already came with a fuylly shaped ready to use saddle, and its too small for that aswell Dammit....you should have said so earlier, its already down to 2.5 in some places From my basic yr11 chem knowlege, hydrogen peroxide is H2O2 and hydronium is H3O....which one is it and how will it remove the discolouration? Its already taken over 20 hours, i'm guessing around the 60-90 hours.....but i'm not really planning to sell it, unless someone really wants it. Theres not really anyone to sell it to here in Aus. Ideally, i would have liked to use that money to fund the next one which i would start from scratch. Yes, i'll add my own label, but i'll definitely state that it was made in china
  5. I made a scraper out of an old saw blade...so i can finally start graduating. The top started off at about 115g and i've gotten in down to about 95. I've also reduced the big bassbar to something more appropriate. Also cleaned up the f holes a bit. I tried to keep the top at 2.6-2.7 all over but slightly thicker around the soundpost area and f holes for structural reasons. Thats all i've done so far. So after about 2 weeks and many many hours scraping away, i think the top is pretty much done
  6. Day 2: I opened it up by hammering a tin piece of metal slowly working my way around each block and it worked out perfectly. Comments: - The linings were dome pretty poorly - The inside of the top was definitely sanded.....it still had all the dust - The last image shows the top plate under a lamp and the darker spots are from the discolorations...possibly denser wood.
  7. I'll be using this thread to blog my experience making finishing my first viola. It was bought off a seller on ebay. Chose to go this route as it was by far the cheapest. I was less than the white viola off International Violin ($235) and came with most of the fittings as well as shipping. If you would like more infomation on the seller feel free to PM me, as well as any questions you have and i'll try my best to answer them. After sending many messages to the ebay seller, we came to an agreement and i was told to wait 20 days for the viola to be specially made because i wanted one without the top glued on so i could regraduate it. The lady's english wasn't very good so it was hard at times, but we got there in the end. It was made after about 25 days. The Viola arrived within 2 weeks of delivering it and arrived safely in a large box containing alot of styrofoam. I was overal pretty happy with the quality of everything i got for the money i paid. The ribs and back seem pretty nice, the biggest issue would be the discolourations on the top plate, but thats ok. Here are some photos of the what i recieved. I have not done any work to it. Sorry about all the links, i'm working out how to put an image on here without attaching it. Once i figure out, i'll edit it DSC06933 (Medium) by Stanley5184, on Flickr Just some points: - Nut is way to small to use, i'll have to get another one - Edgework isn't prefect - It turns out the top and back were just glued on at the blocks - The neck stop and button still needs finishing - The top seems like it has been sanded JEFFERY.....IS IT POSSIBLE TO CHANGE THE PHOTO LIMIT BECAUSE I CAN ONLY UPLOAD 10 IMAGES AT A TIME
  8. I dont think i can get it where i come from, so I'd love some.....but i'm pretty sure its an illegal weed here in Australia. So even if you did send it, it might get confiscated by customs. Doesn't hurt to try but i'm not desperate for the stuff so i think i'll give it a miss. Thanks for the thought.
  9. Hi again, As you may know, i got a viola made from ebay and the manufacturer sent me a couple photos of the final product. I was hoping you guys could tell me whether its good or bad quality wood. The flames on the back seem fine.....not sure about the discolouration on the front....will it show up in the final product after is has been varnish? If so do you suggest i see if i can get another 'cleaner' one Thanks guys....all opinions welcome. It costs under $200 so i'm not expecting too much
  10. Hey guys, I've decided to go with the hammerl violin varnish as it is relatively cheap and is recommended by many users here on MN. What i need to do now is decide which colour. I've posted pictures of my 'dream' finish on the first page of the Varnishing on the Cheap thread here - http://www.maestronet.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=326605 I've been told to go with the red/brown varnish. Has everyone had good experiences with it and will the colour turn out similar to the violins in the photos? Since I'm buying form IV and shipping is a fair bit, i think i'll buy a couple more bottles.....i'm thinking of getting a bottle of the clear finish to use as the final couple of coats, is this recommended or shouldi just use the coloured varnish for all coats? I was thinking of also getting a bottle of the brown varnish because i dont really want a red finish and prefer brown so i can use that just incase the red/brown turns out a bit too red for my liking. feel free to share your tips on using this particular varnish....I was planning to do many very thin layers.....would i be able to use my fingers to rub it in or will i have to brush it on because it very 'liquidy'? Any tips on getting really thin layers? Did any of you adjust the colours by adding in some artist oil paint....if so which brand colour and how much? Thanks again guys....i really appreciate all the great help i'm getting form many members on this forum!
  11. The Answer is....The Chamber. The Sander was bought a while ago for $500 and the Chamber was bought less than half a year ago for $1050. If i was going to go about it logically, you may have known that i'm 16 and assume i dont have a collection. Since i'm 16 the smaller one would have been my first one which obviously would be worth less than my current bigger one. The sound of the chamber is actually surprisingly good and it has a lovely darker tone. I especially love the G string....its powerful, rich and warm with depth.
  12. Thanks for that....i live in melbourne, which is about 10 hours drive from sydney so i dont think i'll be going in store to get it. I emailed them the other day how much a bottle + shipping is and waiting for a reply so hopefully the price will be good. Hey joe, will it me impossible for me to buy your varnish because you cant send it over? if its possible.....could you give me a quote for your varnish shipped to Aus. Thanks
  13. I understand how you feel....do mind you PMing me then?
  14. Thanks for the reply....i didn't quite get what you meant when you said 'selected other spots in the bouts" do you mean you taper down to something like 2.5 towards the upper and lower bouts? Thanks again
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