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Violinum's Achievements


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  1. I used a simple Olympus xz-1 10mpx pocket camera and 4 clip lamps. So your assumption about full frame camera e.t c is a bit far from reality. But I am glad if the pictures are of satisfactory quality and show the violin nicely. All the best
  2. Hello everyone! I would like to ask how to adjust new replacing blades on a regular Dictum (Dick) or Gewa pegshaper. Thank you!
  3. I am curious if a softer Kevlar (or gut) tailpiece holder is surely better for sound than a plastic one? Or maybe in some cases, for certain violins a plastic one is better?
  4. I lowered the pitch (A 432) and played a bit, almost no difference in sound quality.
  5. I posted a picture of my Bridge. Maybe the bridge heart is too low for the 34mm height? The E string is 3.3mm/G string is 5.0mm over the fingerboard. The projection is 28.8mm. I could lower the fingerboard, it is relatively thick, and end up with 33mm bridge.
  6. Hello everyone! I would like to ask experienced restorers and makers if 34mm bridge height is too much for a 19th century violin? Projection is around 28.8! The violin is strong, the plates are of a good thickness, no cracks. The model and archings reminds a Guadagnini. The sound is clean, powerful, slightly muted on A and E (but very strong), a bit narrow on the G and D string, lacking depth.I was wondering if I lower the bridge to a , so called, standard of 33-32mm, what kind of changes in sound shall I expect. Would this change give more depth to G and D string, or maybe the result can be even dissapointing and I should leave as it is?
  7. O well... There is only an outside deformation, inside of the violin it's even, wood was compressed during more than 250 years. At the end I decided to use a special dental multilayer transparent compound and UV light, which makes each layer hard (yet a little flexible!). Now it looks like deformation is gone. I used this method 4 years ago on a very nice old violin with deep deformations under the bridge, but this time I was wondering if someone can give me another ideas. During 4 years of hard professional use the violin shows no signs of crackling or any kind of post process. I could fit a new bridge to the deformed area with no problem, but this destructive process of deformation would keep progressing. It is very sad that some luthiers make very thin feet (sometimes 3.9mm!!!!!). If you look at baroque bridge and compare it with modern in this respect, you would see a clear difference. And on top of that now days we use strings with more tension (not a soft baroque strings) and any inclination of the bridge under the tension causes stress. Many modern luthiers don't care much about violins "health" and just doing their routine job. (Another stupid habit is to move sound post and keep string tension, including E and A strings.)
  8. Hello everyone! How do you fix this kind of problem? is there a way to use some kind of material to level the deformation and make it even? I was thinking of using hard varnish, but I am not sure it would work well. I will appreciate if someone can give a good advice!
  9. Hello everyone! I need your advice on how to fix this crack in a proper way. I fixed many cracks, but not like this one. Some time ago I got these little clamps and never used them, this time it seems that I should try it out. I know more or less the idea of how to use these clamps, but I would like to ask if a plaster cast form would help to level the crack. Thank you very much for your help!
  10. This fantastic violin was made by Anatoly Leman in 1908 (S. Petersburg). Top quality in all aspects.
  11. Sorry, but I can't see any numbers writen on the box, I got this set at the Cremona Exhibition. I would contact Mr. Kremer and ask about their varnish kit for expos and exhibitions, It's always the same set.
  12. Dear Craig, I used a kit which I got from Kremmer. It has many different pigments in shellac. You also can mix all those colours and get some particular one.
  13. It's hard to say how much pressure it took, but it took me some time to level the crack. After it was leveled I rubbed very hot and liquid glue into the crack and used plastic to make sure that clamping pressure being distributed along the crack.
  14. Dear Don, I ment that some makers sand down ribs not flat, but somewhat convex, and it results in springing of plates, because you glue plates to a convex rib surface. Sorry if I can't explain myself well.
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