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TQpiffle

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  1. I had the chance to view a violin today that has the arching of a David Tecchler and the f-holes of a Jacobus Stainer. There is no purfling valley. It has very well executed purfling. The arching is flat to the arch base, then the rise is almost like that of a bell. The other thing that sets it apart: there is a stamp of a bell with the letter S inside the bell on the button. The button has an ebony crown. Neck is grafted. Nicely carved scroll. One piece back. Varnish is of dark brown to very dark brown. Also lower bout is not symetrical - lopsided to chin side. Linings are let into corner blocks. Does any one have an idea as to where to find more info on this instrument, or any clues or hints on it's origin? I suspect a Stainer copy, but by whom? Sorry, no pictures. More tyrolean in it's design than the following, http://rperras.tripod.com/id40.htm Thanks, Terry
  2. Any success? If it's humidity, get out a hair drier, and direct the med to low heat stream towards the pegbox. The idea is: you want to get the box to contract away from the pegs and vise versa. Sorry, but the thought of hitting the pegs really, really scares me Terry
  3. Thanks Daryl, Just what the Dr. ordered!
  4. Is there another source for varnish ingredients for Canadians, other than Kremer? The only other source I know of is Leif at Luscombe Violins. Unfortunatly, I am unaware of the availability of 500gm portions and he is currently out of certain resins. Kremer uses UPS to ship varnish orders, for Canadians UPS is extremely expensive. UPS charges brokerage fees to the recipient in excess of $30 Can per order. I found a Canadian source for shellac that is totally reasonable: http://www.woodessence.com/ Out of Saskatoon, I believe. Any Canadian sources for: Damar, Sandarac, Lavender Spike, Pot Silicate and Mastic? Terry
  5. http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...018147&rd=1 And I thought that grill cheese sandwiches were expensive!
  6. And here's another! dr.sellgood Here is his link. Isn't Bertholini a trade name? http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...823928&rd=1 T
  7. You should try purchasing European stock with a Canadian loonie! To put things in perspective; the exchange rate from U.S. to Euro is only a little more than that of Can to U.S. So, your purchasing power could be worse... Terry
  8. In observing the seller's other auctions: 3761799725, 3761782847, 3761781833. I believe that the Ferdinand Gagliano has an auction value of between 100k - 200k. Even in the buyer's questions there was one query that pointed this out. Sorry if I wasn't more clear on this! Sorry Michael: I thought that it was only the factory made Maggini's that had the extra spiral on the scroll. Is there a source that would point out my erroneous beliefs? T
  9. This eBay seller "breakfast-at-tiffanys123" has listed a bunch of "priceless" violins. I think "too good to be true" comes to mind. Check out item # 3763623371. I know that Josegh Hel produced violins with double purfling. But, did he also produce violins with the extra spiral in the scroll? In reading the "ask seller emails" for the other auctions;I question that if I had a violin that could fetch $100,000 plus, why would I sell it on eBay? T
  10. Hi Glenn, It's Stitka and BigLeaf both from B.C. Next one has wideley flamed maple and the Stitka averages 54 growth rings to the inch! I will be widening the middle by 1/4 inch and probably be using a Stainer type f-hole as a model. I am really unhappy with my choice of f-hole on this one. It's not until we do, is when we learn... Cheers
  11. Funny that you ask what book and pattern... Books: Stroebel, Wake and Ricardo Flores (CD) Also two established Luthiers in Calgary have been coaching me. As for the pattern, it took me 6 months to develop one to my own liking and then 5 more months to get tools together and build to the stage you see now. I was unaware of the Stainer model at the time, and according to my mentors, my model has similarities to Stainer. Now if I could just find some decent f-holes that will compliment my current project... BTW, initial feedback has been excellent on the playability and tone. Now, if I could just slow down my excitement as the violin nears completion! Cheers, Terry
  12. Hi David, I too suffer from spendustoomuchess! And was looking for a glue pot solution. So I cut down the top of an electric coffee maker that was making cold coffee (142 F) and use a baby food jar to hold the glue in. I cut a slot in the top of the "coffee maker" as a brush holder and now have a glue pot that I can program to come on and off for up to 3 hours at a time!
  13. Well, thanks for the tidbits of info! This violin is my number one. And in building it, I have made about 999.9 mistakes, and have corrected about .1 of them! While we were voicing the instument today, we have nullified the wolfnote by scraping the bass side c-bout. Though the instrument has really come alive I am only marginally satisfied with the sound of it. I will keep you posted on how it performs with varnish. But, I am not permitted to varnish for another month. This is to allow the wood to harden and allow the instrument to be further voiced. Here is a link of picts of what it appeared like 3 days ago. Since then I have redone the purfling and cleaned the neck up a bit.
  14. After scouring every resource that I have at my disposal, I am trying to nail down the cause of an f# wolf note on the E string. Possible causes: Base bar - how do you determine that it's the length, shape, size or position? Fingerboard too long - would clamping the fb be the proper way to determine wolf cause? In determining then fixing the cause could someone please post their diagnostic methods for this problem? Thanks, Terry
  15. Perfectly logical, Michael. I guess it boils down to experience in building. Since this is only my first violin from scratch, I guess that I am expecting too much! I should be putting a bow to it within 2 weeks. I'll let you know how it goes. Terry
  16. In doing final graduations for my first back, I need to get feedback on how most of the makers out there determine when enough wood removal is enough. Which is the most popular or common method of determining plate thicknesses? Contributing factors, of course, wood density and weight of plate. With a denser wood - a thinner graduation scheme. Less dense = thicker graduation. Now is there a target weight of the back that makers strive for? Or, is the final plate thickness determined by feel - ie: plate flex? And if plate flex is followed, how much? Again, I am only looking for a general consensus. I realize there are no real hard and fast rules and every situation has it's own set of solutions with which to proceed with. Terry
  17. Excellent lighting! Please keep us updated. Terry
  18. Back on Topic... I purchased a Chinese violin in 2002 for $40 off ebay. Top grade ebony fittings and some flaming on back. Violin looked great but played horrendously! Made blood pour from my ears. The sound post was wedged in at an angle, cheap bridge and strings. Well I had enough of the pain and removed the top. It was made from two different pieces of spruce and there was 1.5mm height difference at the joint. Carved bass bar, fully lined and blocked. Thicknesses varied from 4.5mm to 6.5 on the top with no apparent graduation pattern. The back was approx 5-5.5mm and basically the same all over. I have since re-graduated the back and top and put it back together. New Dominants, sound post and bridge. It is now my main fiddle! Still a little bright on the A and E, but what a wonderful improvement in sound. When I finish the other three violins I have apart, I will be installing a new bass bar. Can't wait to hear the changes. Terry
  19. So, how does one get one of their catalogues to order from? A local luthier has a catalogue, but I always forget to get the particulars on his acquisition. Something more interesting usually takes center stage in conversations. Terry
  20. When you say heat cartridges, do you mean curling iron elements or something else? Terry
  21. I'm using a fat tube curling iron. Works great and picked it up for $5. I place the wet ribs or linings on template curves and use the iron to heat and bend the wood. When I get my workshop finished, I'll be installing the heating element from curling iron to inside of 1" pipe. Will let you know how this turns out. Terry
  22. If you want a violin in the white and aren't particular about where it's from; ebay. Try the kits from bezdez. If you want quality, check local flea markets and estate auctions. Usually $120 will get you a decent estate auction violin. It's best that you try the flea market route. Pick up a damaged $20 violin and take it apart and restore it! You will spend way more in parts and tools than what the violin is worth, but you will be educating yourself. I have 3 violins that I picked up from ebay for this purpose. Two of them are worth restoring. Of these two, I have regraduated both tops, and repaired cracks. One will be getting a new bass bar ( it has an integrated one now ) the other gets the top revarnished, (someone had used furniture stain on it! what a mess) and a crack on the top repaired. The third one, a czech factory, no blocks, carved basebar, broken neck, no pegs and top cracks. This on is purely for practice. Neck repaired and reangled. Eventually it will receive a new base bar and refinishing. So, I thinks it's entirely up to you! Dive in and get wet! Currently I am restoring a 1780 English violin. The 8th restoration since last June. I am waiting on a boxwood fittings set that I ordered 2 weeks ago. I will post picts when I am done. Terry
  23. I am finishing off my first neck and need to know what scraper shapes and sizes work best for smoothing the gouge marks. I don't want to start cutting up my good scrapers to find something else that works as well. If minimal scraping is all that is needed then I must be doing something wrong! Terry
  24. A King's ransom! Montagnana Books, Amati Books ( http://www.eviolin.com/amatibooks/about.html ) and Rolin Music ( http://www.rolinmusic.com/violinbooks.html ) to name a few that I have bookmarked. Has anyone had any experience with "Baxter's Database of Violin/Bow Maker's" program? How complete/incomplete/far-fetched/bombastic/etc...is it? Terry
  25. In all very interesting. So, is gmu6 connectect with any of this? Or coincidence? Here is a link to another Ornati. http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...;category=38108 Terry
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