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CSchabbon's Achievements

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Which brand of hide glue? Water to glue ratio? There are big differences in the quality of hide glue. It’s easy to make a glue joint stronger than spruce itself, to really test how good glue is you need to use hardwood
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Actually carbon paper is safe to use with antique violins. No residue on the varnish.
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Oil varnish you can apply with pretty much everything of medium softness. Sable, Fiber, I don't care. I just varnished my cello with a pelo du bue (ochshair) I bought in Italy 20 years ago, but also with Blick fine red sable. The later is too expensive for such a simple job. For restoration only ever Habico kolinsky sable brushes. The finest and best quality for a reasonable price.
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Is a soundpost crack in the back and a chest patch also in the back really acceptable? Funny thing is that those issues were not in the condition report, but to their credit, the back crack was a very thin grey to black line, and the patch so big it covered 2/3 of the back, and was well stained and covered with dirt, so it was difficult to see. For the condition and for the size I guess it might just have been a little overpriced, and I rather doubt that it would have triple estimates in any other auction.
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Maybe because of a post crack and the chest patch in the back?
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old Stanley 60 1/2 Block plane, made in the USofA
CSchabbon replied to jacobsaunders's topic in The Pegbox
I would not bother to repair the Stanley. The lie Nielsen is so much better you will not ever want to look back Jacob! Yes, I have both Stanley’s low and regular angle and the low angle lie Nielsen. I still use the Stanley to rough things out. -
Thank you all, I ordered some aqua fortis, and I will try the Becker stain! Please keep posting, I am still very interested in hearing about long therm Nitrite samples!
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Hi Michael, Did you ever try this ground? Do you have any pics by chance? Thanks C
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This Rocca has a very similar stain on the inside as well as the outside with the exception of the top. What is it?
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J.B. Vuillaume
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What do you assume the Parisian makers at the time of Vuillaume used to stain the inside of their instruments? It seems to be a chemical stain that sometime develops more towards reddish brow. Also has anyone have a sample of decades old nitrite treated wood, preferably unvarnished? Many thanks in advance C
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This thread is interesting. It's like a group of doctor being ask to diagnose a patient that they are not allowed to see or speak to but can only ask his friend questions about his symptoms. Let me ask a question here: How high is the bridge, and is the soundpost tight? Both of the could potentially choke the G.
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Yes, upper and lower surface are like a dense fibreboard, kind of similar to ebony in hardness, the sides a like the sides of very dense fibreboard. Blunts your plane quickly. Then on the other side they are very close to final measurement and don't need too much work. I think timewise there is not much difference to ebony, maybe the corene boards are a little quicker to finish. Maybe corene can be called a black stained high density fibreboard.
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Yes, they send small bags with glue with every single board, labelled 'bone glue'. I think they do that since they had complaints from people with boards becoming unglued, must be 3 or so years back. Sometimes I use their glue, most of the times just finely ground Kremer bone glue.
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I have not had to remove any so far, I can only imagine it must be a similar experience as hide glue and ebony fingerboards. The interesting fact (after a lot of testing I did in 2019/20) is that bone glue is not the strongest glue out there by far, it just seems to adhere very well to corene. By the way, I also started using bone glue to glue on ebony boards. I believe that somehow bone glue bone glue suits denser woods, spruce is asking for a little longer glue molecules.