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CSchabbon

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  1. I would not bother to repair the Stanley. The lie Nielsen is so much better you will not ever want to look back Jacob! Yes, I have both Stanley’s low and regular angle and the low angle lie Nielsen. I still use the Stanley to rough things out.
  2. Thank you all, I ordered some aqua fortis, and I will try the Becker stain! Please keep posting, I am still very interested in hearing about long therm Nitrite samples!
  3. Hi Michael, Did you ever try this ground? Do you have any pics by chance? Thanks C
  4. This Rocca has a very similar stain on the inside as well as the outside with the exception of the top. What is it?
  5. What do you assume the Parisian makers at the time of Vuillaume used to stain the inside of their instruments? It seems to be a chemical stain that sometime develops more towards reddish brow. Also has anyone have a sample of decades old nitrite treated wood, preferably unvarnished? Many thanks in advance C
  6. This thread is interesting. It's like a group of doctor being ask to diagnose a patient that they are not allowed to see or speak to but can only ask his friend questions about his symptoms. Let me ask a question here: How high is the bridge, and is the soundpost tight? Both of the could potentially choke the G.
  7. Yes, upper and lower surface are like a dense fibreboard, kind of similar to ebony in hardness, the sides a like the sides of very dense fibreboard. Blunts your plane quickly. Then on the other side they are very close to final measurement and don't need too much work. I think timewise there is not much difference to ebony, maybe the corene boards are a little quicker to finish. Maybe corene can be called a black stained high density fibreboard.
  8. Yes, they send small bags with glue with every single board, labelled 'bone glue'. I think they do that since they had complaints from people with boards becoming unglued, must be 3 or so years back. Sometimes I use their glue, most of the times just finely ground Kremer bone glue.
  9. I have not had to remove any so far, I can only imagine it must be a similar experience as hide glue and ebony fingerboards. The interesting fact (after a lot of testing I did in 2019/20) is that bone glue is not the strongest glue out there by far, it just seems to adhere very well to corene. By the way, I also started using bone glue to glue on ebony boards. I believe that somehow bone glue bone glue suits denser woods, spruce is asking for a little longer glue molecules.
  10. David, I do have a different opinion on this one, I have used quite a few Corene fingerboards over the last 2-3 years. Not one has fallen off or even become partially unglued, and yes, I did use thick bone glue for all of them. I also find that they are more stable. I have experienced much more warping with ebony than with corene. They are also harder, which makes fitting them a bit more difficult, especially the sides, but I have had the impression they wear considerably less than ebony. I have only ever used corene, never a different brand so I can't say anything about maybe lower grades of synthetic fingerboards. The only downside is that they are a little more heavy. So far I have not noticed any negative effect on the sound though.
  11. Either directly or I believe cremonatools has it http://amanosan.com
  12. If you are a maker the glue quality does not matter that much. There is plenty of glueing surface on all joints for the glue to hold, except for the center joints. I had a maker ask me recently for clamps to reglue the center joint on one of his instruments. He used Bjorn 300 something gram originally for his joint. I told him the center joint would not have opened with the Japanese glue which I firmly believe. Glue or bond strength only really matters when you glue cracks. The whole grail of crack glueing are slab cut ribs. Only the best glue will keep them together. I just pulled out a cello With slab cut ribs I restored a year ago. 40 rib cracks, All still holding. I dare you to try Amanosan 3b. You will not go back to anything else.
  13. I did many many tests. I believe that many makers use those glues, but I doubt the 'excellent results'. There is much better glue out there and it takes a lot of time to test and compare, so most won't even know. Regular hide glue will be stronger than any technical gel, and the high gram does not really work. I believe that the gel strength has to match the wood. Higher gel strength glues sit on the wood, they don't seem to bond to the wood that well. I still stick with everything I wrote in my 'The Strad' article I wrote in I believe it was May or March 2020. The strongest glue on the market I know of is Amanosan 3B. The Kremer rabbit skin is also very strong but has the stiff gel problems.
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