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  1. It appears that it may have been stripped. What does that tell you about the information in pencil?
  2. As I look at both the handwritten name and the label, it very well could start with F rather than T, but I see the spelling as Fischler.
  3. I see that now....thank you. Are you familiar with Michael Fischer violins or repair shop?
  4. Here is the the photo of the penciled information I was inquiring about.
  5. I took this old violin on trade and it only had 1 peg, no tailpiece, chinrest, nut, strings or bridge. The top had 5 cracks. I took the top off in 3 pieces and inside the violin the were markings in pencil as follows: AMATI. Logo kinda shaped like a football with the laces showing and another oblong circle around that. CREMONA 16. ARAD and there was also part of a paper tag with the logo and Michael Treschler ARAD on it.
  6. I came across this violin a couple of weeks ago. It is in excellent condition. It appears the mare is the son of a famous violin maker. Does this violin have a value over $2000?
  7. Thank you for your comments. The upper block you mentioned was like this when I obtained the cello. What exactly are you refer to when you talked about the rib cage and tacking it to the belly?
  8. I'm anxious to read replies.
  9. I acquired this cello from a farmer who had it in the hay loft of his barn since the 1970s. Needless to say it was in poor condition. Most would have added it to the trash pile, but I brought it back to life. Can anyone tell me the age of this cello and where it may have been made? It has the old geared "hat top" tuners on it that work fine after cleaning and polishing and lubricating.The original finish was a dark brown to where you could almost not see the grain of the wood. It had years of dust, pigeon droppings and more on it. The top was off and the neck was dislodged from the body when I received it. There were no corner blocks inside and the neck joint was one like I've not seen before. The purling is inlaid. The old geared tuners work fine. Were they original to the cello or added at some point. I have only seen one other cello almost a duplicate of this with the same tuners and it was made in Germany. It is solid wood but the bass bar is glued in place not carved out of the top. I paid $50 for it.
  10. I have a cello with a couple of the Wittner pegs slipping slightly. Any recommendation on how to stop that? They appear to be pushed in tight? Greg
  11. I have been using a Juzek cello and violin peg shaver for a little over a year and have found a few things to help..... 1. I took a piece of pine (one for a cello peg and another for a violin peg) , 3"X 2"X 4" and cut a slot in one end of it that the peg head will fit into snuggly. I then rounded the edges of the block of wood to allow you to get a comfortable grip on the block. Inserting the peg head into the slot you can now easily turn the peg in the shaver with much less effort. 2. I insert the peg about 3/4 of the way into the shaver to begin the process. Back it out the adjusting knob and then readjust so about 3/4 is in the shaver and repeat until you have the size you need. 3. DO NOT reverse the direction of the peg (counter clock wise) while it is seated into the blade. The edge of the blade is so thin that the reverse pressure will roll the edge of the blade and then it will have to be resharpened. Always release the adjusting knob to remove the peg. 4. I also seem to get a build up of material after every pass thru the shaver. For some reason it does not want to drop out, so cleaning it out after each adjustment is helpful. I have even on occasion had to remove the blade because material will build up under the blade edge causing it to not properly cut. Yes, you MUST tighten the hex head bolts very securely! 5. I also clamp the shaver in a vice to give it stability rather than holding it in one of my hands while turning the peg with the other.
  12. I am in need of a set of instructions or preferably a video on the set up of the Juzek Cello Peg Shaper. Mine was working fine and mid way through the 3rd peg it simply quit cutting? I see you can move the cutting blade, and also move the top adjusting housing taper and move left to right. I have tried my best and simply can not get it to cut. Thank you, Greg
  13. I am in need of a set of working 4/4 cello Caspari pegs...really only need one, but would like others for spares. Can anyone direct me to a source? As much as they are hated,mi would think there would be plenty in a repair shops junk box? Thank you, Greg
  14. I have a 3/4 bass that has an open seam across 1/2 of the lower section from one side to the other. This seam must have been open for some time as the ribs have now lost their contour and do not match up with the bottom plate any longer where the two should meet. How do I push the ribs out, glue and clamp in the correct position?
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