Stephen Churchill

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About Stephen Churchill

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    http://www.stephenchurchill.ca

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver, Canada
  • Interests
    Making, playing, scientific characterization, history

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  1. I find this kind of scientific research very interesting and i'm glad someone is doing it. However, to the layman the paper implies a link to tonal quality by invoking the Stradivarius name. To see how the press interpret such a paper look no further than the title of The Strad's coverage of the paper: "Research suggests chemical wood treatment may account for the ‘Stradivarius sound’"
  2. I believe I ended up with a 2nd of these by accident. I'll check my collection and get back to you.
  3. I should have mentioned it has the logo "TUBBS" on it.
  4. A friend got this bow to rehair. I'm curious if the serial number under the frog is an indication this went through the Hill shop? Sorry for the low quality picture. Thanks Stephen
  5. Hi all, I don't know John, but I saw this on craiglist and thought someone here might be interested. The posting is on craiglist, here's the link, some pictures there: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/msg/5598074454.html Capistrano Beach, Orange County "Entire Luthier/Violin-Making/Guitar Making Shop Tools - Incredible - $2750" GREATLY REDUCED AND INCLUDES MODEL 5 SHOPSMITH!!! MAKE AN OFFER!!! I am posting this for my neighbor and friend, prominent Violin Maker, John Speak. John is now 86 years old and has decided to retire. The money will be used for ongoing medical expenses for he and his lovely wife. This is a truly amazing collection of everything you need to start a violin-making, guitar-making or any string instrument-making or repair business. This is a collection of tools, many custom made, and components, that has spanned more than 30 years of building and repairing wooden stringed instruments. The photos do not come close to capturing all the hundreds of tools, parts and pieces that will instantly put you in business. The only way to appreciate this collection is to come and see it. It is truly a priceless collection. The asking price is absolutely a pittance of what this collection is worth. I am not going to attempt to list everything, but here are a few of what you'll find: Luthier clamps in every imaginable size for 1/16 violins up to contra bass Huge assortment of new and used cello floor pegs Large assortment of violin, viola and cello tailpieces Assortment of new violin and viola chin rests Large assortment of violin, viola, cello and bass ivory and rosewood tuning pegs Many boxes of violin, viola, cello and bass strings and bridges of many various qualities Beautiful vintage toolbox with unusual, custom hand tools (see pics) Glue pot with lots of glue Custom made saws Sound posts for violins, violas, cellos and bass Bridge cutting and adjusting tools Classical guitar tuning machine heads Peg hole reamers - all sizes with peg cutters Sound post setters - all sizes Miscellaneous bow frogs - used, many sizes Assorted fine tuners Large assortment of violin, viola, cello endpins Purfling tools Thickness gauges Repair vise Scroll carving chisels Many, many custom, miscellaneous wood carving tools Tailguts, nylon - all sizes And on and on - just look at the incredible assortment of hand tools on the table ALSO HUGE BONUS: INCLUDES a ShopSmith (we believe Model 5) in very good condition with a big assortment of accessory tools. It is shown in the very last photo. This is the quintessential workhorse of any wood shop. WE WILL NOT PART OUT THIS COLLECTION - BUYER TAKES ALL! Please contact me to set up an appointment with John. Cash or Paypal (+ 3%). Thank you. contact name: Neilcall or text: ☎ (323) 309-7225reply by email: 5vzsj-5598074454@sale.craigslist.org
  6. Hi Jack, I can't see the picture if you meant to post it this time. I replaced the cartridge heater element in mine with a CIR-30202/120V from Omega.ca. Its a 1/2" diameter, 2" long 250W unit. http://www.omega.ca/pptst_eng/CIR_12.html I'm assuming you're in North America so 120V is fine. Check your length and diameter. The wattage should ok. Also a good time to pick up a PID and thermocouple off ebay and give yourself a nice accurate bending iron temperature control. Thanks Stephen
  7. Styrofoam is expanded polystyrene. I see two problems with this. The first is you're coating your resonant body with plastic which i would think would dampen vibration. The seconds is that since its plastic and not oxidizing to form larger polymer changes, so you probably would find it hard to build up any kind of thickness since the solvent in the new coat would take off the old coat.
  8. The first one I came across was the Guarneri ‘del Gesu’ violin 1733 in April'84, then the G.B. Guadagnini's ‘Lachmann Schwechter’ 1776 violin in Feb-85. Then the Muir-Mackenzie followed in December. But that's reconstructed from old ads, so I could be wrong. Perhaps these were re-issued?
  9. An update. I made a hygrometer based on Oak glued cross-wise to Maple. This means the tangential shrinkage is being compared to the axial movement. I used thin pieces for each and laminated them together with epoxy to keep the 50% point near the center (it was about 50% humidity when i did the epoxying). The oak is 1.3mm and the maple about 2.0mm. In late summer the humidity in my workshop was about 45-55%. Now it's drier - with a cold front moving this week in it dropped to about 20% today. So I've seen a fairly wide range of humidities on on the hygrometer. The hygrometer is 76cm long (~30 inches), and moves about 21cm from 46% (its center) to 21% (today's measurement). I used aniline dye to color the hygrometer but not seal the wood. The hygrometer represents the % of humidity in the workshops better than a digital hygrometer which reacts more or less instantaneously to changes in ambient humidity. Next: The sensitivity to humidity to the thickness is very high. By reducing the thickness by10 (10mm to 1 mm) the movement of the hygrometer should increase by about 3x. A good result should be obtainable with two Maple veneers, I'll try this when I get some time. Cheers, Stephen
  10. Coincidentally i came across an interview with the co-creator of Knew Concepts just a few days ago. They talk about the aluminum and the titanium versions. Very cool.. Its definitely on my wish list.
  11. Very cool stuff. A quick search indicates the best wood to use would be Oak, Hickory, Dogwood, or Beech. Birch and Sugar Maple are close 2nd choices. On the other end of the spectrum (smaller reaction to changes in humidity) are Teak, Redwood, Cedar, mahogany, Pine, Ash, Butternut. Spruce is only a little better. This is based on readily available shrinkage rates from green to kiln dry. Also interesting is that tangential (slab cut) rates of change are typically double that of radial (quarter cut). So i'm going to find some slab cut Oak and see what I can make! Cheers Stephen
  12. I have had some success with bending a thin scraper over the fingerboard. Alternatively you could sand with a block and plenty of cork on it. Use a wedge (like a piece of cedar shim they use to square up door frames) to create a tapered feeler gage. With a straight end along the length of the finger board you can push the feeler gage underneath. Mark on the gage the thicknesses you're going for. Courntall suggests .75mm under the E and 1mm under the G. I think the E doesn't need that much. The hollowing should be even end to end. You can move a shorter straight end (maybe a 10cm rule or prepare a piece of wood 8-10cm long) along the fingerboard to check the consistency of the curve.