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nathan slobodkin

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About nathan slobodkin

  • Birthday 08/17/1954

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  • Website URL
    Slobodkinviolins.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bangor ME USA
  • Interests
    Violin and cello maker, repair ,restoration and dealer. Amateur forester

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  1. David, Are you cutting full depth with the gauge or just marking?
  2. No. When the plate is scraped the winter grain is cut clean while the softer grain compresses and then swells up leaving the hard grain lower than the soft grain. As to what is shown in the photos I think these are real cracks either from some stress or from a previous defect in the wood.
  3. Depends on several things. if you do all your work by hand cellos are about 3 times the work time but much harder on the body. If you use machines for rough work then that difference is much less. Also if you are making willow cellos versus maple violins the difference evens out some. It doesn't take me much more time to purfle a willow cello cello back than a maple fiddle.
  4. Had you used the golden ground stuff before? If not Golden Yellow can mean different things and as Argle said cinnamon brown is a good start for a nice finish.
  5. I have set many hundreds of necks with no known failures sizing the neck root once with medium consistency glue, wiped off if necessary and reflattened after drying. The only time I have ever heard of a problem was my teacher warning me that if the glue was too thin the neck might check.
  6. As long as the glue is kept dry it will last indefinitely. I keep mine in either glass bottles or ziplock plastic bags. You can definitely reheat the glue a couple times if you keep it in a refrigerator between heating. it will actually be strongest on the second heating and will go down in strength after that.
  7. Thanks Jackson. Looks like my next purchase.
  8. I have used the same 1940's vintage grinder since it was given to me when I was 14 year old. I insist on a single continuous hollow ground bevel on all my tools and have always been able to accomplish that without any jigs by using my finger against the tool rest as a guide and not letting go of the tool until the grinding is done. As my hands are now somewhat battered by millions of repetitive motions this has become very uncomfortable especially on my largest gouges. I am currently setting up a new shop in my home and am very interested in the CBN wheels and also the Veritas tool guide and will be buying a new grinder to put them on.. Is any one using this combination? From what I am reading the 1 1/2"wide wheels are recommended while the veritas will only accommodate 1" wheels.
  9. That is very sad news indeed. I worked across a bench from him for several years and he was a great maker who was always willing to share his knowledge and to encourage all of us to be the best craftsman we could be. Also a kind and decent man who was a good husband and father. He will be missed by all those who knew him.
  10. Sorry Mark. Your last line was "drilling a plugged end pin hole in an instrument has always made me a bit nervous." Reading that and David's comment I am picturing some shared horror story which I have not yet experienced. I do see that being able to turn the inner diameter of the bushing would certainly save time and wear on one's wrist.
  11. The chapelle is also nice and lets you thread the string through the peg while leaving more wood above the A peg. No matter what the shape used leaving the inside of the corners rounded rather than square increases strength substancialy.
  12. So this label and stamp can be legit for early Roth's? I have sent pictures to Wilhelm Roth but don't know how long it will take to get back to me. They don't take credit cards so payment will be a real pain. I think Jacob Saunders was saying Europe had done away with checks but these guys want "bank drafts" which sounds like something out of Dickens.
  13. The label and brand I am talking about are identical to the last label shown in the pictures above. I reviewed everything I could find about this last night but am confused as to dates of these undated Roth labels. From what I have read it seems likely they were used prior to 1922 when the more familiar stamp and dated labels came into use. Is this right? I gather there were exceptions to every rule and some later instruments may have gotten earlier labels. Any thoughts on this appreciated.
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