nathan slobodkin

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  1. It is mostly light rather than heat which cures varnish. I keep my light box pretty cool.
  2. Good question. You can get away with small tight knots anywhere except between the FFs. 14 mm is low but not ridiculous. If you have much work into it you might go for it. If just beginning then starting over might be best.
  3. Anybody have a nice J.R.Carlisle violin around? I am looking for scroll measurements.
  4. In Boston you can throw a rock and you'll hit one. Look on the American Federation of Violin and Bowmakers website. There are a few shops which primarily work only on things they have sold but if you do reach one of them they should be able to guide you to some one who takes new customers.
  5. Much better photos. I agree with Blank Face and Martin (I would have deferred to their opinion any way).
  6. Tango, Are you meaning wide or thick? The corner width on most Strad cellos is usually around 11 mm. While the thickness would be around 7 or less.
  7. Bridges, Those pictures are not very helpful. Profile views of the head and frog and pictures which clearly show details of the head chamfer, the button and collar, straight on rear of the frog, under slide, mortise and the stamps would all be good. I have lot of trouble with pictures myself but one trick I have learned is that a light gray background is better than white and that clothes pins can hold the bow in the needed positions. This is possibly a commercial Mirecourt bow but without better pictures it's hard to tell.
  8. The matter I am trying to find info about is that on some cellos one finds a small shim glued to the nut on one (or more?) strings to help with playing fifths in tune. I am sort of remembering seeing this on the D string which I think would make the fifth across the D and A more perpendicular to the neck. There is a thread on the fingerboard which says the proper finger position for D and A is slightly flatter on the D and that when playing G and D the D is also flatter. Assuming I am remembering and understanding this correctly my question is how to figure the correct size of this shim. Also
  9. I'm sure there has been MN discussions of instruments where the fingered fifths are not in tune but am having trouble finding them. Any one know how to do this?
  10. You would be making a cello version of a dancing masters kit. Could be interesting but you would need to pay careful attention to where your bridge wound up to avoid bowing interference with the corners.
  11. Shunyata, All of the shops I have worked in have put lengthwise scoop in the board. More "vigorous" players some times want more scoop but I have never had a player ask for none. I would definitely not consider it optional.
  12. Mostly aesthetics but when I see this kind of thing I wonder what else the guy got up to.