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Ron1

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Everything posted by Ron1

  1. On a related note, I was surprised when I was charged about $65 for "customs" when a package arrived. I had already paid a similar amount for shipping, and was totally unaware there would be other charges. Is this customary? (no pun intended) Ron
  2. Sharpening the "innies" is the other problem worrying me- I would be interested to know how you do it accurately, without stones shaped for every sweep? Thanks, Dean. Ron
  3. David- do you mean you actually do most plate-carving, for instance, with "innies"? I didn't think that would work well- they seem to want to dig-in too much for me. I thought "innies" would only be used for trimming corner blocks and the like. Ron.
  4. Anybody? Is it no big deal to grind them & change the bevels, or should I best leave them & buy other gouges I need? Ron
  5. I made this fabulous find/purchase at an antique store today. A real nice looking boxed set of 12 gouges with interchangeable straight & off-set handles. Excellent condition & not overly used. They seem to be good quality, but no brand on them or the box. Problem: They have incannel bevels. I understand it's maybe nice to have these occasionally, but I really need outcannel beveled gouges. Do I try to change this set (seems like a lot of grinding & work), or do I just hang on to them & keep shopping? Thanks for any ideas. Ron.
  6. Ron1

    Patterns

    I like the laminate (gotta watch those trademark names) idea too. I've also used plastic template sheets- they come about 12" x 18" & are about like the "for sale" signs mentioned above. You can see thru them enough to trace arching curves, & they cut nicely with scissors. To stiffen them, I use those cheap slide-on plastic report binders for a 'back rib' (from Wal-Mart). Ron.
  7. You were in-line with the current discussion- I'm the culprit.
  8. I guess we've really drifted off-subject and into far-off space with this thread. Call home, ET.
  9. Dean, I think we're in agreement too. Heart was probably a poor choice of words. the bottom line seems to be that Knowledge (which has to include all the quantitative info too) is the primary requisite, but beyond that (or maybe along with it) an artistic sense and ability is required to take making to the highest levels.
  10. "..how do you quantify that persons experiences, feelings, instinct that flow from the right brain." Not sure how to quantify it, but let's describe it. "Experience", I agree becomes "knowledge", but "feelings" can certainly be better described as "heart", & "instinct" is certainly more "heart" than "knowledge" too. It's just that the idea of "heart" was jumped-on previously, & "knowledge" was put forth as the key.
  11. I don't know.. what you guys are talking about sounds an awful lot like an earlier post suggesting the "heart" a maker put into his work was the key to success. That was poo-pooed and called non-sense. Instead of putting "heart" into it, it was said a maker just had to "know" how to make the instrument. I think "heart" is closer to art, and "knowing" is just knowledge of how many millimeters. Which way is it? Or does it depend on who asks the question? Ron
  12. Whoops... that was meant to reply to Michael's post. Ron
  13. As you predicted- us with no experience or knowledge still need to spout our opinions. I think I agree, but you're not saying that just the curve of the arches have to be beautiful, are you? I don't think there's any way "pretty" alone can produce better sound. But, that said, I can see that a maker capable of making a beautiful instrument, imparts those abilities to all the parts of the instrument, and the result is a well-made and beautiful instrument that typically sounds good/better. I can also see these better-made instruments commanding generally higher prices, and therefore, having generally better players as owners. Better players = better sounding instruments. Ron.
  14. Hard to get a word in edge-wise here.
  15. I actually have one of these- it works something like an aluminum can crusher. The dowel on the hangy-down thing is what 'sets' the post. You have to do the operation quite quickly though, or the underside of the belly will splinter quite bad. Ron.
  16. I recognize this. It is patented soundpost setter that, for the most part, never really 'took off'. Although it was fast, it was considered too invasive when it hit the market, as it left a hole, the diameter of the soundpost, in the top plate. The Swede who purchased the patent and tried to resurrect it, is the fellow who initially promoted the idea of a direct connection between the soundpost & bridge- probably an attempt to save his ill-fated investment. Ron.
  17. "I have a violin in my possession with the scribe marks as he drew the arcs for the placement of the notches, and the set points of the compass is partially visible under the varnish which ran down inside the ff holes." Am I mis-understanding this? It sounds like varnish has run down through ff holes which are being marked-out, but have not yet been cut?? Or was it varnished prior to cutting the knicks? Or is this possibly from a later re-varnishing? Ron
  18. Yes Michael, I checked back- it was John's suggestion in a previous thread. Also DarylG posted in the same thread that he also uses feeler gauges- .015 being both their preference. Ron.
  19. Whoops- whose ever it was, it works well. I just figured it was so good, it must have been yours
  20. I used an idea Seth mentioned in a previous thread- the blades in a set of feeler guages (the kind that fold into a handle) can be quickly ground into almost any configuration to suit a need at hand. You can even burnish a hook on them. BTW, I think a scraper with a burnished hook should be called a 'shaver' to more properly distinguish it from a 'scraper' without a hook. Ron.
  21. Michael- I'm going to have, I guess, the same type of glasses made by my eye doctor too. I had cataract (sp) surgery on one eye a few months ago, but having some problems getting both eyes to cooperate, so will wait 'til they get that cleared up. I thought the only thing they do is to change the focal length of the prescription lens, is that your understanding? My reading length is abt 14"-16" in my regular glasses, which is too far for some work. I asked him to make the focal length about 10". Ron.
  22. Ron1

    The Stars

    I'm guessing, but it seems to me that 'making it' as a maker requires many years of almost total committment- passing, for the most part, the repair end of the business. I would think most highly successful repair people are trained & have experience in making, but have chosen to pursue repairing- perhaps because it is a more stable and certain endeavor financially. And then, down the road, they find they have found their niche. Does this make sense?
  23. Ron1

    Button Question

    Michael, is the edge on the back of the violin posted on this thread "sharper" than usual (less rounded)? If so, what significance does this have, if any? Thanks, Ron.
  24. Seth- don't forget, though, you're going to have to lug that "no-shipping cost" piece of butcher-block across the country! Another alternative, for those who want a softwood top: I did a couple of tops with pine/fir sheets from Home Depot that come glued-up like butcher-block (not with end-grain up). It's cheap & easy, but needs to have some underlayment too, as it's only 3/4". BTW, everyone should know that you only apply VEGETABLE oil to buther-blocks. Ron.
  25. Thanks Andre- I'll go back & look again at (especially) the center bout cross archings. They are quite high- back 17.8 and belly 18.3. Now that I've read that the plates often bulge up over time too...
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