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BarryD

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Everything posted by BarryD

  1. It is...Lauren is playing a 5 string viola by Jon Cooper and Brittany is playing her Silakowski 5 string.
  2. I agree it is formidable! but it has both cad and cam. I have found someone in the city of Atlanta that wil do a 3D laser scan of my plate and give me an STL flie.
  3. I am afraid that I'm forced to go to "roughing" with a CNC. I have resisted for several years but I am giving in. Arthritis has claimed my right hand and wrist. I want to use technology to "hog" off everything but the last MM or two and then I can add the finishing touches, tune my plates etc. I have a Onefinity CNC machine but have yet to decide on the best software. Fusion 360 is very powerful and can probably be used to to design and manufacture a Formula 1 car but it has a steep learning curve. Is anyone here using Fusion 360???? If not what are some good choices?
  4. I have used Walnut, Rosewood, Bubinga, Ebony and a few others.
  5. 5mm at the nut. String height depends a lot on the player. Most 5 string players improvise and like to play faster than many classical players. "E" 2.5-3mm with the "C"at 3.5-4mm. with tha you gage the height of the other strings relative to the string on each side so you can play a single note with out hitting any other string. Helicore makes a 5 string set that is popular with the players and their newer Kaplan "VIVO" with a short scale VIVO "C" is a wonderful string.
  6. Hey Don, I have had this happen a few times. They like the sound but the varnish is too "pretty" or too dark. I let them keep the violin until the "new" one is ready. Since they had to wait originally I work the new violin in at the top of the list.
  7. Thanks David. Our reputations are what speaks of us as individuals.
  8. Just to close out my part. I am sending out the check in the morning. Overnight with a tracking#. Barry D
  9. When I first started out I didn't require a deposit. A customer would call and say they wanted a violin. I would go to work and when I was finished I would contact the customer and they would say "Oh I bought a different violin already". Now that I have a waiting list, I start losing customers if the list gets much more than a year. That's just my situtation and your thoughts may be different
  10. David, I had the same thing happen years ago. During the construction process he was easy to get on the phone. When I finished the instrument I called for weeks leaving messages with his secretary that the instrument was finished and was ready to ship upon final payment. After weeks of no response, I sent a registered letter stating he had 90 days or I would place the instrument up for sale. Never heard from him. As far as my situation, I have decided to just go ahead and refund 100%. I feel it will come back to me somehow.
  11. I have a 100% refund policy if the customer receives the violin and is not satisfied for any reason. This situation is a bit different. I have refunded deposits due to hardships in customers lives etc., but never after 4 years. I did offer to refund 60% of the deposit or complete to order to build the fiddle. Thanks for your opinions Glad to hear any other thoughts you may have.
  12. I have a customer that in 2014 gave me a deposit to make a violin. He could'nt decide about some of the wood. After a few emails back and forth he was still undecided and it was left thathe would get back to me. Being busy I continued to build other violins on my wait list and forgot about the situtation. Now, 4 years later, he contacts me and says he has bought one of my violins from an individual and wants his deposit back???? I offered to refund 60% 0f the deposit or complete the order but he is not happy with that. your opinions please....
  13. BarryD

    PegHeds....

    I have been doing business with Chuck for years. He is sometimes rushed but I have found him to be a terrific vendor and the quality of his products excellent. At one time I offered the PegHeds as an option but since everyone wanted them I just made them standard on my violins. Everybody has a bad day sometimes...maybe you caught him on a bad day?
  14. I agree completely. Experience has taught most of us that never dig your heels in too deep because there is always an exception to the rule. The purpose of the question was to find out if there was a simple method to test how any given finish changes/changed the sound. Whether the change is good or bad is debatable. I can tell by the way this thread is going the answer to my question is no...You just have to try it for yourself.
  15. Acoustic transparency is when the finish has no effect on the sound. of course NO effect is probably an impossibility but that is what is meant by the term. IMO you can't say that a violin in the white is always at it's best. Sometime the finish can add a little "something" but thin is almost always best. There is a difference between an "oil" finish and an oil varnish finish. Examples of Oil is Tung oil, Danish oil, True oil. You all are familiar with Oil varnish. Jezzupe, thanks for that tip, that's what I was looking for.
  16. are there any methods for testing a finish for acoustic transparency that can be used in a luthiers shop? I recently had a very fine and expensive classical guitar come into the shop for repair of a crack in the top. The sound this guitar produces is very clear, fast and strong. The finish is also very beautiful. I am not going to tell the type finish to avoid influencing your responses. Also just for background, through the years I have used French Polish, oil varnish, sprayed finish, shellac, polyu and probably some others I can't remember. I say this only to say I have had experience with all these but have never read any methods to actually test finishes. There may not be a way to test other than experience. I am always curious about finish methods. Varnish/finish is one of the most worrisome steps in making an instrument for me. Thanks
  17. I think I originally got this idea from David Burgess??? glue in the back linings, glue the back on to hld the shape. Then glue in the front linings and then the top. That how I do it anyway.
  18. I see Michael posting from time to time on a photo forum I belong
  19. I have to agree. You as a maker will have a sound and "feel" that to your mind's eye and ear is "right". These small elements are the things that separate one makers work from another...how the maker "hears" the feedback from the wood as it violin is made. in an effort to to answer the question for the OP, start withsome measurements from another maker you respect and use that until you feel confident to make changes and understand how the difference changed the sound. Sometimes you make discoveries from a mistake...just my opinion. Opinions are like a$$ holes everybody has one and they usually stink!
  20. I leave the bridge up and in place with pieces of foam rubber in front and behind the bridge. I let the foam extend under the fingerboard in the front and under the tailpiece in the rear. I de-tune about 1/2 step. I works for me but iwould go with something that doesn't make you lose sleep till you hear it has arrived safely.
  21. I ship my violins all over the world and I sell my violins with a hardshell case. First I place a thick layer of crumpled newspaper in the bottom of the box, Crumpled news paper has a lot of cushion and when it is placed snugly around the violin it will not shift like Styrofoam peanuts. Then I wrap the case in bubble wrap then place it on top of the layer of crumpled newspaper. The I crumple more newspaper to go arpund the edges and the ends, making sure to make the corners tight. It seems boxes always get dropped on the corners. Then I put a layer of crumpled newspaper on top of the case and close up the box and seal it with packing tape. I want the box the be SLIGHTLY over stuffed so when I tape it shut it compacts the newspaper a bit and holds everything securely. Knock on wood, With over a 100 violins shipped I have never had violin damaged in shipping. Hope this helps. p.s. Using newspaper is a way of getting another use from the resource before it goes to the landfill and it is free.
  22. I agree with David and Jerry. I primarily make 5 string violins and always place the "C" on the last peg on the bass side. It helps on some but not all. I have never noticed that it has "hurt" the sound...it also decreases the break angle from the nut to the peg and the side of the pegbox. But that just how I do it.
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