BarryD

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About BarryD

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    http://www.dudleyviolins.com
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    Male
  • Location
    Monroe, GA
  • Interests
    Photography, Travel, Dogs

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  1. Saving the mold

    I think I originally got this idea from David Burgess??? glue in the back linings, glue the back on to hld the shape. Then glue in the front linings and then the top. That how I do it anyway.
  2. Michael Darnton...

    I see Michael posting from time to time on a photo forum I belong
  3. Another naive question about bassbar

    I have to agree. You as a maker will have a sound and "feel" that to your mind's eye and ear is "right". These small elements are the things that separate one makers work from another...how the maker "hears" the feedback from the wood as it violin is made. in an effort to to answer the question for the OP, start withsome measurements from another maker you respect and use that until you feel confident to make changes and understand how the difference changed the sound. Sometimes you make discoveries from a mistake...just my opinion. Opinions are like a$$ holes everybody has one and they usually stink!
  4. Violin shipping case or box

    I leave the bridge up and in place with pieces of foam rubber in front and behind the bridge. I let the foam extend under the fingerboard in the front and under the tailpiece in the rear. I de-tune about 1/2 step. I works for me but iwould go with something that doesn't make you lose sleep till you hear it has arrived safely.
  5. Violin shipping case or box

    I ship my violins all over the world and I sell my violins with a hardshell case. First I place a thick layer of crumpled newspaper in the bottom of the box, Crumpled news paper has a lot of cushion and when it is placed snugly around the violin it will not shift like Styrofoam peanuts. Then I wrap the case in bubble wrap then place it on top of the layer of crumpled newspaper. The I crumple more newspaper to go arpund the edges and the ends, making sure to make the corners tight. It seems boxes always get dropped on the corners. Then I put a layer of crumpled newspaper on top of the case and close up the box and seal it with packing tape. I want the box the be SLIGHTLY over stuffed so when I tape it shut it compacts the newspaper a bit and holds everything securely. Knock on wood, With over a 100 violins shipped I have never had violin damaged in shipping. Hope this helps. p.s. Using newspaper is a way of getting another use from the resource before it goes to the landfill and it is free.
  6. switching to the back peg for viola C string????

    I agree with David and Jerry. I primarily make 5 string violins and always place the "C" on the last peg on the bass side. It helps on some but not all. I have never noticed that it has "hurt" the sound...it also decreases the break angle from the nut to the peg and the side of the pegbox. But that just how I do it.
  7. Are these F holes familiar to you?

    There are not photos....
  8. Wood on the back other than Maplewood?

    I have used Cocbolo a couple of time and it is excellent!
  9. A new and exciting idea

    Where did you get that tool? I've been using the old Stew Mac version that I modified but would like to try one like the one you show in the photo.
  10. Joan Maruszczak information

    I had a "Joan Maruszczak" 1956 violin come into the shop to be brought back to life. It was a fairly nice violin and sounded pretty good when all the popped seams were reglued, strings and a set up. His great grandson has the violin and ask me if I could tell him anything about the maker. I did a google search and found one reference to one of his violins for sale at Psariano's Violins. Any information would be appreciated.
  11. Thank you for sharing this crack clamp technique

    Thanks for great ideas!
  12. Building A 5 String Fiddle

    I start with a a bridge curve slight less than a "classical" arch. Most players today have some classical training and are not looking for the flatter arch like the old time fiddle players once used. If the arch is too much then the "C" string is a really bowing issue. I have an bridge arch template I have made that gets me 95% of the way there. After I string the violin up I adjust the height of each string by bowing , open strings, to see if I can play each string individually without excessive bowing effort. I "eye" between the strings looking for clear "air" under the string in the middle. looking "d" to "e" and checking for the height of the "a" and so on. You will have to arrive at your own final set up. If I the customer is coming to the shop to pick-up the violin I leave everything close but a little on the high side and then adjust string height on each string to the customers "specs". This works with experienced players who know how they want the violin to play. because I have arrived at my set up based on what most players seem to want my standard set is usually very close. Since I can't play my personal feelings don't cloud the issue. hope this makes sense and helps???
  13. Building A 5 String Fiddle

    Placing the "C" on the farthest peg works fine. I do i t for two reasons, it reduces the angle of pull from the nut to the peg and it increases the length of the sting in the pegbox.
  14. Pegheds

    Here are a couple of photos of Pegheds. You have to look closely to tell the difference. Of course I will install standard wooden pegs if a customer prefers them but over 90% request the Pegheds so I just standardized on them. Chuck Herrin sold production rights to Knilling and are sold under the name Perfection. They are mass produce them in China with plastic knobs. Chuck makes and sells "Pegheds" in his shop in S.C.. Pegheds are designed to be installed just as wooden pegs and you can even remove them and replace with wooden pegs.
  15. plate crack repair clamps

    I don't do a lot of repair and need a recommendation on good crack clamps. The ones I have always cause center to bow and I have to try to put wedges in to reduce to bow and keep the crack/joint edges in contact.