Regis

Baxter shows him as a maker in 1887-1887 in Detroit. Then shows Henry in Arizona in the 1970-1980 time frame.

Now speaking with a 'little' experience, it is much easier to restore a violin with a damaged area than it is to restore after someone's poor/sloppy repair or restoration effort.

Quote: Warren, I can find these all the time for one hundred dollars or less. but you do what you think. find out also about shipping cost. Fingerboard, I'll take a 1/2 dozen of those that look that good for under $100 each. Send me PM for payment and shipping info. In the last Tarisio I bought one 'about' like Warren is looking at at 'about' the same price and am very very pleased. Warren, How does the description read? If their estimate was much greater than the $350 they are asking, you have a chance of good value. If that was the top of their estimate, I'd be leary because many people got to inspect "hands-on" and it didn't sell.

Thank you. I like your idea about having some sample patterns on dowels. That will, at least, be a good place to bring up the idea to a player (where balance will be unaffected or improved).

I sure agree with your balance logic. Do you use silk just on new bows or do you suggest change to clients? I like the look of silk myself but, rarely use it. I also like wrapping it much better than anything else (using fly tyer's spool holder). But, I simply replace wire/silver or syn whale bone as appropriate. Do you come up with your own color pattern or are there some good examples in famous old bows?

Dead soft. The more you move it the harder/springier is gets. Try to set your spool such that it comes off and onto the bow (in the same direction/curve) and handle it as little as possible. I solder with an easyflow but you may want to tie off or use hole or glue. If you solder, test your flux 'first' on a junker.

I don't know about the snake skin but, in one way, gold is much easier to solder. Higher temp but, heat does not spread like silver. You can solder a single point and not raise the temperature of the entire piece as high as silver for good solder jont. There is easy gold solder just like silver but, I haven't seen any of the 400 degree stuff like you can find for silver. "And" Pernambuco smoldering in your shop is not a pleasant thing.

He/she does not sell under the same ID. Does he sell to local market or under another id? Or, how many violins can one have in collection? anyone know PK's market?

Rio catalog show down to 30 guage (0.2540mm). 0.40mm is about 26 guage and that's getting pretty large. Although I should run some 26 guage fine silver through a rolling mill and put a very small pattern on it. Should make for a very decrative wrap and it should be a little easier to put the flat wire on. I'll let you know how it turns out.

There are several jewelers' supply houses in New Mexico where you can buy silver in various gauges. Thunderbird Jewelers Supply , Rio Grande , Indian Jeweler's Supply and others. I mostly use Indian Jeweler's Supply in Gallup but their web site (anf Thunderbird) seems to be down this morning. Phone# is (505)722-4451

When you replace 'another' winding with pure silver, is there a proper description? If the bow is not silver mounted (at least not 'real' silver) is there a hybrid name?

And their last words on Maestronet are "And now the final step to make the crack completely invisable arrrrr........"

"Fair"? I can't imaging anyone in shipping business that does not take both dimension and weight into their pricing model. Should a 10lb block of steel ship for the same as 10lb box that is mostly full of packing and takes up half of a small truck? Regardless of who the shipper is, you should not be supprised by the cost, as long as you have access to internet. For something that I value, I use FedX. For other things, I check and use cheapest for the shipping speed that I need.

Go to their web site and enter a sample shipment. When you get the list of prices, at the bottom of page you'll find "How dimension and value affect your rate"....or something close to that. Selecting dimensions will answer your questions..

pahdah hound, If you just hit your refresh (F5 or button on bar in IE) the counter will update. Ctrl refresh is a complete refresh Don't know where all it get cached but, that seems to do the trick quickly for me. I also monitor closely (selling or buying). regis

AMORI, "All the way from South Africa." Well, with that I will have to ask how many people want another workshop soon? If you PM or e-mail me, I will look into setting one up sooner than next year. Regis

I have looked at some of the Chineese instruments in shops and there are differences in sound within the same models. Talking to shop owners, it doesn't matter if the violin setup is done at factory or in shop(somewhat better) there is a noticable difference in tone and projection between instruments. I wonder if most of those going onto ebay are what is left after "cherry picking" the better ones for local clients.

Most of the group is traveling home today. I just could not resist saying something already. My right thumb can sure vouch for Michael's sharpening method on scrapers. And dna is supposed to be one of the new violin marking methods, right? I'll just have to wait and let the other guys and gals jump in tonight and tomorrow for more.

There have been some active Maestronet participants absent from the Pegbox for a week now. Thanks to the unselfish expertise of Michael Darnton, there are a group of us that learned more in the last 5 days than I could possibly communicate. Learning together not only grew our knowledge, it has built wonderful friendships. From all over this country and Canada we listened and worked and listened and worked (some 'till wee hours of morning). We had a wide variety of skills that were shared including a storyteller that made us smile. All violins that I make (or even restore) will have attention to details that my eye could have never caught before Michael pointed them out and showed how to approach. That and friends is what I gained the most. Now finishing those details as well as Michael does,, that's a different story. It is just wonderful how an internet forum can be the interface that brings people together not only to share some knowledge but ultimately to build strong friendships. Thank you Michael and all my new friends and to Maestronet. p.s. Hope there are no pictures or sound tracks from the late night entertainment(?) next door!

Rich, Talked to Michael a little while ago. Told him about this thread. Indeed, he uses his for ribs and I simply missed that one. Regis

Rich, Pulling it through you would have to make absolutly sure to keep it level. It would be very easy to cut too deep. I didn't realize Michael this for ribs. I thought his (at least what I saw) was for plate graduating. I must have missed some of the discussion.

CT I don't know about Wakes usefull measurements but, Strobel's sure come in handy for me. When your DVD is ready, I'll buy one (even though I have your notes and am getting "fairly" proficient). I'm looking forward to it. Regis

Bill, Although I can not tell you what historically works, what I can say is that whatever you use, it MUST NOT move even the slightest. If it moves back and forth over the name slightly it will just continue the wear but, unseen. I guess though if it is very very smooth, it will wear slower. my2c Regis

Yes, I got mine on Amazon. And, I think it is about one of the least expensive books...around $20 US I think. Soft cover, about 135 pages (8 1/2 X 11). About 125 pages with drawings. No index but, ok table of contents and detailed illustration list. It'll make you want to pull out your drawing tools.

Amori, I agree with the C&J and the Strobel books but, just got "The Art of The Violin Design" by Sergei Muratov. Talk about mixing engineering and art! The scroll and F hole sections are something. For me though, the topographical is better than C&J, Wake, or Strobel. As a CAD expert, you would really like this one. Regis