Regis

Ditto on the "Brilliant". I did notice one thing. The robot must be Czech because it has gouged/planned an integral bass bar

Quote: what is the temperature required to alter the shape? One of the ads said 160 degree (F I believe). I use similar to hold silver/gold pieces togather for soldering (when no other mechanical holding will work). Softens in hot water. Takes oxy/acetelene well. Regis

It really depends on the skill of the "experts" involved. I think that it has already been done by machine...$29.95 on e-bay including case and bow. The qualification for those "experts" though is to have spare $29.95 + shipping/handling. In the past I have written and AI system that we could train to be the expert that validates the computer generated violin. Assembly????? let me see, perhaps we could bypass assembly and run that cnc arm through one of the F holes manking the violin out of 1 piece of wood. Then we could simply make really authenic looking fake glue joints. Noooo, I think Jeffry would spot that pretty quick to,,, Well, as an after thought, if we kept the violin in the computer, we could do it. We could generate images on the screen and tones that would even pass the Jeffery and Michael inspections. And, they would be inexpensive to reproduce.

Michael ....I guess I should take this as a que.... Michael held a great small group workshop about 6 weeks ago and we probably can persuade him again. When setting it up, I recieved a couple inquiries about the UK and then about Canada. Haven't gotten any more e-mail on these though. I believe we're shooting for another next winter in warm climate (wasn't the best of weather in Florida this February). If there is interest, please let Michael or myself know and we'll work on organizing. Regis

plainjane, You could write to the seller and ask where the violin is located. Simply say that it is more than you normally spend and you want to go see it in person (or have a nearby friend look at it for you). Just a thought. Regis

I've been studying the 10 Tubbs violin bow photo's that are shown on the Tarisio Archives. The tip on the 1st two (top 2) are very different than the other eight. Does anyone know if he made 2 different designs. Perhaps early and late? Or, is there just an error in Tarisio posting. Tarisio-Tubbs Regis

I'm repairing/rehairing a lot of old bows that I picked up. One that is rather nice pernambuco has an odd repair. Someone put a synthetic tip on it (beginning about an inch from tip). I'll have to strip it just to see how it is attached because it has been stained to match. I'll throw away or keep for souviner but, I found it interesting that someone would do such a detailed repair like that. Has anyone seen this before? Or is it just an oddity? Regis

I've made and bought spool clamps but after reading Brad's post, I would do a little different. I would drill off-center for one thing. Then, I would saw or sand (belt sander) a step on each spool so the clamp could reach over to the rib. Wouldn't take much longer. And I may just re-do some of mine if I have enough room from the bolt. Regis

Chanot, You can count on CT's process (except everyone doesn't have the sunny/dry weather that he has). Remember if you leave hair too long, you can always tie another knot and cut shorter. You don't want to do that but, may be necessary in the beginning. Also, that flaming to shorten the hair takes awhile to get used to. Don't expect success immediately and you definately will burn some hairs. Best of luck and enjoy. Regis

Skiingfiddler, Agree. Must coordinate with owner. Claire, Do you not find that shortening one side causes 'some' twist in the tip? Also, do you consider a bow re-cambered as a result of applying heat to 'true' (straighten as viewed from top) the bow even if actual shape of the camber (viewed from the side) remains original? I have read that each time you heat a bow, it weakens, but, your caution about breaking really got my attention. I don't work on high-end bows yet so I want to especially learn all the cautions BEFORE I do. (Even though I'm getting fair at repairing broken bows.) Thank you for the advice, Regis

Oded, I understand how shortening convex side would work but, why not just true the bow? Do you believe the heat (re-heating) adversely affects the bow? I true them up and re-hair normally but, I sure don't want to do anything that will ultimately harm the bow. Thank you, Regis

Well, I just won an auction this evening. And, I feel like I must have bid on a poor violin because the now famous PKNORR did not even bid on it. Well, we'll see in a few days how good/bad my bid was. I'm actually expecting more out of the bows.

This looks to be an authenic, turn of the century OINKER..

Does anyone feel that bows are line violins, in that they must be played in order to give the best quality? I've seen many posts on this forum that a violin that is idle for years looses tone/quality and must be "broken-in" again for a number of months. Do you think that holds true with bows? I'm curious and don't really know. Regis

I'm not a bow maker but, when I have to re-camber, I make sure that when tensioning, the bow straightens over the entire length. If you put camber too far forward, you will simply pull down the tip end of the bow when tensioning. If you put too far toward the frog, the bow will tend to appear to have a slight hump (above the camber) when the bow is tensioned. Not real easy to get that straightening distributed in proportion to the bow's flex (usually relative to diameter). My hat's off to them that can do this quickly. Regis

Did you notice that there is a 17% Buyer premium!

I've been gone for awhile. We traveled through much of Mississippi, Arkansas, Missouri(Branson) Oklahoma, and Louisiana. We stopped at every music shop we saw and a lot of antique stores. Not one authenic (or even nearly so) Strad, . Lots and lots and lots of guitar & drums! I did buy one Stainer (copy) in very poor shape (graduated to paper thin top). Very nice old luthier in Ok. I paid too much but, he was such a pleasant gentlemen that it was worth a few extra $$'s. One old shop owner shared with me that about 30 years ago buyers from Chicago and New York came throughout the Ozarks buying every old 'fiddle' that was worth playin'. I did get to go by one Maestroneter's shop. It was just a pleasure. I hope ya'll that are in areas with many luthiers nearby know how lucky you are. Only bad thing was now my wife is putting the pressure on me to 'organize' my shop. My recomendation is don't pass up a chance to visit another Maestronet'r. Regis P.S. Even stopped by International Luthier Supply.

Quote: "just to let the luthier pick the bridge! " Agree. If you won't trust your luthier to pick the best blank, then you sure don't want to let him/her cut the bridge for you.

I've had a chance to try several Chinese violins($1500 range) of the same make & model and found no consistancy. Although they 'look' very good and exactly the same, as far as tone-wise, they sound totally different. All set-up the same. Does this hold true on the ZSM's also?

Amori If you take your time on the corner blocks (that Jacob mentioned), you can get a pretty good solid fit. That was the hardest part for me on the first one of these. The integrated bass bar planes out very easy. I think that it must be cheaper to leave wood than to have the skilled labor to fit a bar properly. But, I also don't see that it is worth it. Regis

QUOTE: "Painters, sculptors, potters, woodcarvers--none of the similar trades are licensed because of the problems involved, and the fact that training does nothing at all to indicate competence. " I believe licensing is used when there are standards or other measurable efforts for mostly (or at least nearly) repeatable processes. Those professions with artistry as an integral part do not fall into this licensing concept. Violin Playing, restoring, completely making are some of these. My view is that training is necessary to acheive a basic level of producing. Then some amount of repeatable performance of work is necessary to acheive a firm foundations in fundementals. One of 2 outcomes are then likely: (1)individual will accumulate many years of 1 year's experience or (2)true skill and ability to learn more will emerge, in which case progress and true professionalism can be achieved. In the 2nd case, there is value in more training or demonstration/discussion by advanced professionals.

I agree, 10th amendment, that is. Fed has no business there. Should be state regulated (and funded). It's such a shame that I only have one vote or I could fix this

Never saw that as a "federal" government issue. Never could understand why Boston would get part of Houston's education budget or New Jersey should get some of Florida's.

Manfio, Are there condensation issues/problems when you use plastic bag and have big temp/humidity changes?

Quote:-- "One of the things I did in the makers' workshop I gave a couple of weeks ago was concentrate on that type of stuff--it's not "secret", but it is hard to come by on your own." That's for sure. I have a library, even including the the Big Red Book with Michael's article and it doesn't compare to watching an doing, with direct guidance. Cutting a bridge is a perfect example.....which way to plane different parts, what knife for what part of bridge, what those graphite marks should 'really' look like, very very slightly hollowing the bottom of the feet, what part of plane to use and on and on. I'm gaining experience on restoring (not just repairing) but, I'd love to get some expert apprentice/workshop type experience in some specific areas. Regis