Jump to content
Maestronet Forums

Regis

Members
  • Posts

    504
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Regis

  1. Quote: "but does $7.00 actually cover his cost for the instrument? "

    Consider that this was probably a $25 instrument. Stated shipping charge in US is $39. They indicated using Fedx. Shipment via FedX Ground in the US would be about $7, or so, for something that light. Well, that leaves about 50% profit (minus ebay fees).

  2. Just when I 'thought' I was beginning to be able to identify "better" scrolls, I miss-judged this one. What do you see in the scroll? Is it the poor angle of the pegs (especially "A")? Or, did I just miss totally (scroll that is). Or did you use the "overall" to reach your conclusion?

    I'm a long way from corpus identifacation.

  3. I'd suggest looking for a shop that will cut bridge and soundpost. Have them put on strings that you use on your 'baby'. Then you can hear it and see if it is worth the remainder of the work. If not, you are only out the bridge and soundpost.

  4. I don't think that I am ready to spend serious $'s on a violin who's certification probably says something like this:

    ---------------------------------------------------------

    "From the information provided to our database, we certify the characteristics stated are present on authenic xyz violins. Therefore we conclude this is an xyz violin.

    DISCLAIMER: Opinions provided here are limited to the information provided. If a characteristic is present on other violins, the accuracy of this certification is reduced."

    --------------------------------------------------------

  5. I appreciate the discussion. I do realize there is much more involved in optomizing a particular violin but, this list along with the sound post & strings are variables that we change without opening a glue joint.

    Thanks to all and I'll keep reading and learning.

    Regis

  6. Of the following basic setup points, which is most and least important. Which "MUST" be kept when factors like length or arch force you to make a choice (even small change)? Which is 1st to alter? Or, do you compromise all of them?

    - String angle over bridge 159 degrees

    - 329-330mm nut to bridge

    - 55mm tailpiece to bridge

    - 32mm bridge height

    I've gleaned over a couple years reading here that the string angle is 'probable' most important(?).

    Thanks,

    Regis

  7. Michael,

    You were absolutely right about plucking the A string as a good indicator. I've managed to finally hear difference. And in one, that played "ok?" I found the A different. Had to use the other strings to help me identify the difference in resonance but, I did finally understand & hear. Then adjusted sound post to even out resonance on the A and the whole violin sounds much much better. Actually didn't have to move very much....perhaps 0.5 on top and 1.0mm on bottom (straightened somewhat also).

    Thank you

  8. I have a violin that has "Paganini's Violin" (in script) engraved on the back of the scroll. It's a Strad copy and 'appears' to be 19th century factory (although pretty finely made linnings).

    Does anyone know where these were made?

    Thank you,

    Regis

  9. Please don't take this jousting as dismissive of ideas. I understand the computer side of your question (almost too well). Asking the same question on advanced technology forum would have gotten very different answers. Mostly because they could formulate the computer-machine motions necessary to rough out the task. But, the same folks would not understand the details that a violin expert would look for to differentiate violins.

    "Yes Andres, that's it. We have machines making industrialized food but there is no machine making high cuisine food (unfortunatly...). "

    That was the best analogy.

    Regis

×
×
  • Create New...