Regis

Can anyone post a side profile drawing of a correct scoop? Something that shows the start/center/stop of the scoop. Thank you

They sure are not ready for music video production!

Quote: "but does $7.00 actually cover his cost for the instrument? " Consider that this was probably a $25 instrument. Stated shipping charge in US is $39. They indicated using Fedx. Shipment via FedX Ground in the US would be about $7, or so, for something that light. Well, that leaves about 50% profit (minus ebay fees).

jamesofmi28, Do you mean what precautions in order to be sure the dealer is valid and reputable (e.g. you'll get your money or instrument back)? Or shipping/insurance precautions?

Bryan, As I said, the one I have is a "fixer-upper" Inside Outside If you want to dive in to restore this on, let me know. If anyone can tell me more about this case, I'd appreciate.

I've learned that there are only 2 types of glue to use on a violin. (1) Hide glue (hot and relatively fresh made). (2) Hide glue (as above) but thinned somewhat for the top.

Do you mean a new (at least new condition) or one that you would fix up yourself. I beleive that I do have a "fixer-upper" Regis

Just when I 'thought' I was beginning to be able to identify "better" scrolls, I miss-judged this one. What do you see in the scroll? Is it the poor angle of the pegs (especially "A")? Or, did I just miss totally (scroll that is). Or did you use the "overall" to reach your conclusion? I'm a long way from corpus identifacation.

Quote: "Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just stand there." FS, That is just great. Where did it come from? Your idea perhaps?

Anyone know of any violin displays or shops in New Orleans French Quarter? Thanks

Darn, and I thought I was the only one that knew! And look at that back on #38

I'd suggest looking for a shop that will cut bridge and soundpost. Have them put on strings that you use on your 'baby'. Then you can hear it and see if it is worth the remainder of the work. If not, you are only out the bridge and soundpost.

Joseph, Do you drill different size hole for each string? Do you size them so they just barely fit? If so, do you flare the hole to prevent sharp bend (kink)? Thanks, Regis

Quote: "can be counter intuitive" Now that explains a lot of things that I struggle with.

I don't think that I am ready to spend serious $'s on a violin who's certification probably says something like this: --------------------------------------------------------- "From the information provided to our database, we certify the characteristics stated are present on authenic xyz violins. Therefore we conclude this is an xyz violin. DISCLAIMER: Opinions provided here are limited to the information provided. If a characteristic is present on other violins, the accuracy of this certification is reduced." --------------------------------------------------------

FWIW......Baxter shows a George(Jorg) Straub in Fussen 1625

I appreciate the discussion. I do realize there is much more involved in optomizing a particular violin but, this list along with the sound post & strings are variables that we change without opening a glue joint. Thanks to all and I'll keep reading and learning. Regis

Of the following basic setup points, which is most and least important. Which "MUST" be kept when factors like length or arch force you to make a choice (even small change)? Which is 1st to alter? Or, do you compromise all of them? - String angle over bridge 159 degrees - 329-330mm nut to bridge - 55mm tailpiece to bridge - 32mm bridge height I've gleaned over a couple years reading here that the string angle is 'probable' most important(?). Thanks, Regis

Michael, You were absolutely right about plucking the A string as a good indicator. I've managed to finally hear difference. And in one, that played "ok?" I found the A different. Had to use the other strings to help me identify the difference in resonance but, I did finally understand & hear. Then adjusted sound post to even out resonance on the A and the whole violin sounds much much better. Actually didn't have to move very much....perhaps 0.5 on top and 1.0mm on bottom (straightened somewhat also). Thank you

Michael, Do you listen for a "split-second" or do you hear the resonance over a few seconds or ???? Regis

The A string,,,Yes....4 violins. 3 seem the same and are somewhat rougher than the 4th. Not sure what I'm hearing though (as far as reason).

Violin 1 VG 6 Good (Also thanks Tarisio) 1 Chinese good 4 Fair 7 Poor (1 is 3/4) 3 Parts/junker 3 White 2 in build Viola 1 Fair 15" And not enough time to work on them or play(maybe shouldn't play anyways ).

Now that was on the tip of my toung but I just couldn't type it fast enough

I have a violin that has "Paganini's Violin" (in script) engraved on the back of the scroll. It's a Strad copy and 'appears' to be 19th century factory (although pretty finely made linnings). Does anyone know where these were made? Thank you, Regis

Please don't take this jousting as dismissive of ideas. I understand the computer side of your question (almost too well). Asking the same question on advanced technology forum would have gotten very different answers. Mostly because they could formulate the computer-machine motions necessary to rough out the task. But, the same folks would not understand the details that a violin expert would look for to differentiate violins. "Yes Andres, that's it. We have machines making industrialized food but there is no machine making high cuisine food (unfortunatly...). " That was the best analogy. Regis