Regis

Acacia curassavica is what I found for Amourette(French) or Redwood(English). I googled "amourette tree". BUT, when I put "Amourette" in the languate translator it came out as "passing fancy". Maybe that's why we don't see a lot more of it

Does anyone know about the Amourette wood in in the bow at Tarisio #105? I've not hear of this before. Did a google and found it in some knife handles but, that's all. So far, I've only see one other in the auction that is not Pernambuco.

I can't tell anyting from the E. But, "pinched" I'm not sure? I do know that I have to pluck in the middle of the vibrating string (near the top of the body) to hear results. I don't think violin quality matters (within reason) although I don't work on any in the 10's of thousands of dollar range and very rarely even handle one like that.

Quote: Please correct me if I'm wrong about this, if I'm not mistaken, you've had some one on one hands on experience with the method, right? Being there and getting hands on training and seeing it done is by far the best teacher. That was not part of the workshop although I beleive I did see him set someone's sometime during the workshop. After reading one of the posts about this, I just kept playing with it until I could hear. I think someone else here on Maestronet suggested listening to the G or D and then how the A seems to be noisier and dampens quicker when the soundpost is not in best spot.

Quote: "I never did understand Darntons plucking method either..." CT, My ear is not very good (use electronic tuner) but, I can now use the "pluckin A string" method to get the sound post right. Once I worked it for awhile and finally recognized what was going on with the G & D compared to the A, I got it. Now a few plucks and a little nudging and it's set (if the soundpost height is correct). Until I learned that, I spent a LOT of time and still had some wrong. I still need to bow the after length (D on G) and verify with electronic tuner. Regis

Quote: Re the afterlength of ~55mm -- So that's the ballpark. Like soundpost location, once you're in the ballpark, I think it's a matter of adjusting the parameters of that particular violin. --Claire I've been doing that and then "striving" for exactly D on the G. It sure makes an improvement but, is that right and all for this part (afterlength that is). When I use 1/6 that is very close and I have to use a bit of trial & error to get that D. And, I had to buy some 105mm and 108mm tailpieces from Dov to get some to work.

Don't know about that....it is the oldest profession!

Jeffrey, That is a very neat rack design that you have. I've seen a couple nice cabinets in this thread for in-home display and some good humidity management discussion. You're right about drawer storage in work area. I'm affraid I'm guilty of laying in-progess-work simply out of the way on bench. I had not really thought of a drawer. After your comment about a drawer, I realize that I have one under-counter drawer 30"W 22"D 5"H that I'm using for extra jewelery tools. Like you indicated, a drawer would be a lot safer place. I think I'll find another place for those tools. Thanks, Regis

GMM22, When you soften a bridge and get a darker sound, does it significantly reduce volume? And it sounds like you are making it more east/west(sideways G-E) fleible than north/south(thinner). Is that correct?

Quote: "by making the bridge much more flexible. " GMM22, Do you equate flexible to thin? Or, to the wood quality/density? I also like darker and more resonance in sound. I have a harsh violin (or 2, or 3, or...) to experiment. CT, Thank you for taking time to put down the theory details. Regis

So far, I like that one Singingmaple showed on ebay. I think it would have to be a little taller (like 60" high inside for hanging) to display 2 rows. With 48" wide, you could get a dozen nicely displayed. Yep, I like that. And a BIG plus is that my wife can hunt antique shops (with minimum measurements). Then I'll leave the work-in-progress as they are in my workshop.

COB3, You're right about corners and it's fun, but, with owner permission. What all do you use for color matching?

Glenn, I was actually interested in home displays. But, for more than a couple violins. I have one bedroom as a "music room" and have 2 violins and cello on stands. I was looking for more attractive ideas than the simple hanging rack in my workshop. I know there are collectors here on Maestronet that have a number of instruments. There was a recent "How Many Violins Do You Have?" thread. Some of the numbers were quite large. And, I was wondering if there is a better way than I am using. tx, Regis

Quote: I am very curious about the [rack] on the far left of photo. Well he's my only partner in my one man shop. 'been married 20 years but, he's been with me 21 years (and we spend a lot of time togather in the shop!

If you don't have a retail shop, how do you store or display your violins? This would mostly be for collectors and part time restore/repair. Here is one wall of my shop where I keep completed and work in progress violins. I have 2 display stands with my best and another one for what I practice daily. My shop stays at about 71 F and 55% humidity. I keep cases in my garage. Those white cabinets and white wall don't make for a good photo! violin-rack What do others do? Is there a better way? Should they be kept in cases? Thanks,

It WAS there and now it's gone!

Looks great....worked this time

CT, By-the-way, that picture never showed up.. Someone said they saw it but, still not there??? Now I pasted the link in my browser and I see the violin....but, not in the post.... now more

I've seen a good many violin bridges including a lot of new(to me) ones here on Maestronet. Here is one I've never seen and am curious if anyone can identify. Fine Bridge I looked and some of the great photo's like the nice bridge collection that Jeffery posted. None lke this. Thanks Regis

Here is a link to one of the good discussions and more links. Photo Discussion

It may or may not be your camera. Are you viewing it only on your PC? Do you have a "video out" so you can look at them on your television? It is more likely your lighting. Michael Darnton and others have provided detailed photography info here on Maestronet (archieves). Most important camera component is good quality, "actual" glass lense and not one of the plastic ones. Then mega pixels become important if you want quality greater than simple internet exchanging. But, the best camera will miss-represent the image because of improper lighting (matching to what camera expects).

Probably everyone has favorite descriptive statements on ebay. Here is one of mine "This violin sounds wonderful. It just needs a good setup"

Correct

I had similar problem and here is link to the help I received Open Seam

Dave, If you are cutting metal, I believe you should use a blade that keeps "at least" 2 teeth on the metal. I don't have a bandsaw blade that is fine enough for metal thinner than 3/16". If you're cutting thinner metal, there are plenty of scrollsaw blade choices. It doesn't matter if it is bandsaw or scrollsaw. Maybe one of the metal workers will verify that. Regis