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Everything posted by Regis

  1. QUOTE: "One of the most embarassing things is the wildly varying distance of the purflings to the edge. This was even when the instrument was finished, but the overhangs were huge. I made the choice later on to sacrifice even purfling distance to achieve a better overhang, and butchered the edges with a knife." Welcome back. You have shown some wear on the back therefore: it would only make sense to make those edges close to the purfling look a little stressed/worn. If you have reasonable humidity inside your home, you might not want to just take your next instrument outside and leave it to tan. It will also tan inside the splits/cracks as it dries out
  2. Yes, those are the ones, thank you Guy. With such a drastic difference, how can the 2nd one be attributed unless there is just strong documentation from the maker to the current owner. I 'thought' I was beginning to understand identification(even when I could not recognize some details) but, these large difference leave me at a loss.
  3. Guy, I love those Tarisio photo's (I subscribe). But, look at the 1st (top) two violin bows by Alfred Lamy. Can anyone explain the radically different tips?
  4. Jeffery, 1st 2 seem to have same shape but one is a bit wider in middle. The 3rd has a different flow down the fron and overall angle in relation to the stick.
  5. I really appreciate the post. Top 2 from same shop but different individual or periods. 3rd is completely different maker/shop....still searching Affraid that's the best I can do.
  6. When you go west to Arizona (I think that's where he was headed) you go past Roswell NM and we've all heard about CTviolin's town ........now that I think of it, is "CT" an alias for "ET" Maybe we need to ask CT (or ET) You know, between where's Michael and this thread, I've only gotten one bow tip w/liner done this weekend. 299 bows to go
  7. What a "Class Act" this forum exhibits. Some true professionals that unselfishly share technical knowledge (not easily acquired). And now show a glimpse into the depth of their overall character. My hats off to you all. Regis
  8. There is a CA (Christian Albert) listed in Baxter. Only shows as working in 1997.
  9. This evening, I was straightening and re-cambering several bows. I got to one that I could not bend at all. It is a T. Sugito (Japanese) and seem pretty descent. Here is a picture of the tip. Sugito-tip Does anyone know this wood? In the group I was doing, there were both pernambuco and 'general' Brazilwood. And then this one Even tried a bit higher temp than I normally use on my bender and nothing.
  10. Kathy, The ONLY way to authenticate it is to put it in the hands of someone like Jeffrey Holmes. Most of these, like Strads, are copies and may even be a hundred or more years old. Posting pictures can help, as far as folks here recognizing it a s copy. But, without having it "in-hand" I don't think anyone can say that it is authentic. Provenance would help for sure. Regis
  11. Yes, good thread. I have one that just the top was stripped already. I'll have to "try" to make it match the rest. I've avoided it for a couple years now and this thread has jarred my interest in it, again.
  12. Welll, Cremona is kind of in the 'panhandle'. And the Panhandle of Florida is often called "Southern Alabama". Logic dictates that Michael may or may not be in Pensacola. nope, just scanned the beach and he is nowhere in sight! ISOM (In Search Of Michael)
  13. Controversial? 1. Bridges should not be tampered with or cut - use straight as shipped. 2. Use a straw as soundpost and you will not damage or cause sound post cracks. 3. If the top is not split multiple times, it must be a modern reproduction or never used. 4. Pin stripping from Autozone can be used in a pinch to repair missing/damaged purfling. 5. Never make your own knives 6. Scrapers should be rounded to compress the wood. 7. Real authenic Italian labels come 8 to a sheet.
  14. Perhaps your budget is too high for your confidence in selecting. If your ear and eye do not tell you the difference between a $1,500 and $15,000 violin, then you should choose the lower one. Ask what to look for in a particular violin. It is not worth the reputation of an upright company to lie to you about value. Sales pitch, probably but, you can pick a maker/model and then begin checking it out. If so nervous about the amount, then ask if you can contact someone who has purchased one. You already said that you will not be relying on one shop. Shopping IS educating yourself.
  15. Quote: "I did a lot of "tests" of stick stiffness, counting hairs (and trimming some off and having other bows rehaired), assessing sound quality, etc. I even tried to start getting into some dynamic properties but had no feasible measurement tools. " Andrew, I'm struggling with trying to correct camber on old sticks when it has obviously been changed from original (exactly unknown). Did you learn anyting about camber in your testing? Sorry about bringing this up again after several months. Thank you
  16. Quote: Several times, as an exercise, I have turned a nickel-mounted bow into a silver-mounted one by removing all the nickel parts of the frog and fabricating silver replacements. That is a nice touch as long as you are not selling it as a "silver mounted" bow without disclosing the change. That is 'part' of the grading by the maker. Better stick, finer workmanship, more expensive metals parts. As part time jeweler, I am tempted to do the same. Especially adding engraved details in gold or silver.
  17. Mike, If you prefer auctions (because you live in more rural area like me) you may also want to try Tarisio. The pictures are 'always' very good but, the descriptions are very limited. You won't find any $50 or $150 violins though. You can still get 'poor' supprises but, generally, as you said, you get what you pay for.
  18. What adhesive (if any) do you use for tinsel on a bow? Or, do you thinly coat like some do on thread wraps? Thanks Regis
  19. Quote: what would that do to the value of the bow? If the bow was of significant value (especially historic) and had original frog, I would not change anything that isn't meant to be replaced. If not, and the owner wanted parisian eye, I'd replace the frog, matching wood & metal (e.g. silver for silver)
  20. One simple way is to get brass tube (common in 12" lengths at hardware or hobby shop). Select the size you want the outter ring. Cut the tube to about 3" to reduce wobble. Then file teeth on it and chuck in your drill press. Drill your groove only as deep as your wire ring. Then just solder a piece of square silver wire in a circle to fit the groove and glue it in. Or, let me see, did someone suggest changing frogs?
  21. JTL violins typically get poor reports here and sell very low on ebay. I'm curious why there are 3 going on Tarisio at more than I'd expect. One at $950 I guess I can understand. Then there is one sold without strings at $1300. Then there is one (not setup) with no bids at $2750. If these were setup so someone could play them, I would understand these prices. But, with such reputations and no way to 'listen', how do they get that high. They will probably have to retail at double that, or more. Have I missed judged what I've read about JTL's?
  22. Iversola, Search the archeives for Sound Landscape software discussions. That's a good start for more along these lines.
  23. Traditional appearance with great sound leads me to think individual maker and player quality. Modern design/color leads me to think production and electronic quality. Although, I know that my ear alone could be fooled in a blind test. Someone in an earlier thread talked about the value of violins as opposed to other instruments. The best professional instruments other than violins can usually be pruchased for $5,000 or $10,000 (or even double that). But, that cost is considered a very good student violin by many people. Age, reputation, & pedigree are what drive those six figure prices. A modern style violin that retains demand in a couple hundred years may be in the same class.
  24. So much for measuring afterlength to the fret on the tailpiece!
  25. Regis


    Quote: "Sound carries better underwater anyway." Pehaps the VERY 1st violins sank in ship while crossing the Meditranean. They were then written about and thought to be "Sirenes" in the Oddessey. Much later Amati found one washed up on the shore (while on vacation) and began building them. Moral is......well,,,,,float one of your best out off the coast of Maine and listen.
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