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Everything posted by Regis

  1. Regis

    Bow Tutorial

    Thanks Guy. It sure helps when we use the same terminology. What is the correct term for the front slope (above the point)? I've always called it the "front" but???
  2. Larry, Last year(I think) you posted the leather weld and the skiver idea. The leather weld works great for me. I ordered some then and will be using it a long time. The skiver, on the other hand, is probably better in someone elses hand. I've tried it and only get it to work on large and stiffer leather. It must take some knack that I don't have to use it on small pieces. Thank you for the leather weld tip and any help/explaination on the skiver.
  3. If you are only facing light tarnish you will not need an abrasive. I use a product called Rolite with terry rag then buff with polishing rag. It is something like Simichrome but will last longer. I've kept silver out in open on shelf for over a year without turning. If you have some pitting then you won't be able to circumvent abrasives. A little diamond on a leather wheel in your foredom (or dremel) will do wonders.
  4. Ron, If you are still collecting info, there are 2 Knute Reindahl violins shown in Tarisio Red Book (sales in 1984 & 1998)
  5. I was watching a Bazin by the same seller that got 52 bids and went for $1515 Item: 7326434936 There was no certificate on this one.
  6. David, I've succesfully used Michael's method of forcing glue in with a small suction cup.
  7. The bridge needs to be fitted better. Sounds like the feet are not perfectly fitted to match the top. If they are rounded and at the correct height, the bridge may need replaced. Chances are though that it just came in and 'appear' to fit, a slight trimming to fit perfectly could do the trick.
  8. Here is a link to the sand paper (sanding belt) cleaner that I mentioned above. Sanding-Belt-Cleaner Works great from me on files as well as sander. I'm not sure of the material but, it is some synthetic rubber and it doesn't seem to wear much. I've used mine for probably 10 years or more and if you never put it to a belt sander, it will definately last a lifetime Regis
  9. I have a new favorite ebay description! QUOTE: "I only used this bow for concerts and professional type playing in concert halls and whatnot. I played Violin for only a year, and this bow probably has only been used 6-8 times" What an amazing feat. GAG
  10. Have you tried Dictionary (about 1/2 way don page in middle)? Not as good as bilingual person but, works pretty good for many things.
  11. Have you tried one of those 'rubbery' sandpaper cleaners? Works fine for me even on very fine files. Perhaps a soft/coarse pencil eraser may work similarly. They are not the fastest but, a lot better than picking out the pieces.
  12. Oded, Just tried it(celephane). Didn't work well. The celephane tape is not weak but, it has no compression, so will only work on very very smooth surfaces like glass and metal. I'll go with your carpet tape. Thanks for the great tip!
  13. Lots of threads/discussion on this in archeives. I think steam helps some, especially when you are starting out. Wrap thin wet towel around your rib (or at least between rib and iron) to push steam into wood. Be sure your ribs are thin enough (1-1.2mm). Getting right temp without burning is key. I still mess some up as I'm not experienced as many here. A number of people use cold bending which takes a little more patience but works great for some.
  14. In looking at the bows(always), I came across item 073 (Peccatte) and it has 4 pictures. 2 normal auction shots and then 2 at an angle. Any thoughts on what they are trying to show on this bow and different from others? I also like their photo's and really like these extra 2 shots.
  15. The double sided tape idea is real interesting. I have doublesided celephane tape which is, of course, very thin and light. If you want thin tape like this, it is available from suppliers for trophies and signs like Johnson Plastics or Hermes.
  16. Regis

    Bow Hardening

    QUOTE: "On the other hand if you are thoroughly heating the bow in its correct camber but with no surface burning, you are probably ensuring that the camber is as permanent as possible. " Indeed, that is the goal (even heat no burn). I was not aware or sure that it would ensure permanent camber. Just knew I was supposed to. Thank you
  17. Regis

    Bow Hardening

    I go through a hardening process on bows whenever I camber or have to straighten one a bit. But, I'm not so sure of the benefit or importance and would like to hear some comments. As best that I can tell, there is a soft spot after heating and I feel hardening seems to remove that or even out the hardness over the entire length. Thanks, Regis
  18. Just read where Francois Xavier Tourte was actually the 1st to strongly promote and use pernambuco. Prior to late 18th century ironwood and snakewood(wish I had one that old in my collection). The amourette (snakewood) name caught me a few weeks ago. But, are there any famous, high quality makers of the 19th or 20th century that do not primarily use pernambuco?
  19. Ed, I sure agree to adding wood to these identification discussions. Does the grain density and exact plane indicate a particular maker preference or bow characteristics? Did any high quality bow makers stay away from pernambuco? Off to dig into my books to try to answer some of my own questions. Regis
  20. Jeffery, QUOTE: "Does everyone see the "Roman nose" (the front profile of the head) on #s 2 & 3? " Yes, if you mean the 'very' slight bulge(for lack of better term) forward on the front as it slopes down.
  21. Guy & Jeffery, Here are differences and similarities that I see. "Or", am I missing the forest for the trees! If that is what you mean, then I need to make myself a chart of theses kind of traits for each maker. Similarities: Shaft enters head same on 1& 3 (rather high) The front slope of the heads on 1 & 4 look the same #'s 2 & 3 have curved bottom plate #'s 1 & 3 have longer tip (nose for lack of better term) Differences: # 3 has a more squared back (of head) # 4 top ends in sharpest corner (even more that #1) # 4 back is evenly rounded from top to bottom. # 4 is very narrow waist # 3 has wide waist Does anyone have reference to the names of parts of the bow head? Somebody posted a great chart on bridges last year(I think).
  22. I don't know yet, But, looked-up the N. Maline in Raphael's post. I don't think he made 2 heads the same, at least not in the 4 or 5 violin bows shown at Tarisio.
  23. QUOTE: "In many ways this school repair job has allowed me to hone some skills I never would have had the opportunity to have developed this far otherwise. " It would be awfull to to occasionally/rarely face a badly cracked or broken $1,000+ bow without having often repaired many student bows with similar breaks. Yep, love them bows
  24. Great thread even if it is too difficult for me to get all. Is the top one viola and not violin?
  25. For myself, violin work is changing (as my skill continues to grow )from hobby to small business (later this year...I hope). I also live in a small community that has a few music shops and one "real, professionally trained, with 25 years experience" luthier. She is pleasant and has helped my learning and I would not infringe on her business (even if I could). In other words, I won't have a local market except some of her overflow during very busy times. My business will mostly be restorations for sale over the internet. I have to determine the cost of my investment of purchases, time, and parts/fittings to establish prices for violins (Probably $500 - $3,000) and bows ($75 - $2500). I'll probably incure some ship/return loss to also figure in. The good part is that I can really take my time but, indeed time is money so that 8 hours cutting and fitting a bridge is probably not reasonable (in this price range). If, I can then compete with "the big kids" I will make a profit. If not, my children may be supprised by their entire inheritance (of many violins and hundreds of bows). CT - I LOVE rehairing bows too Regis
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